ArdWrknTrk

Give us a zip so we have a clue! Mat from TN, who's now in NC may be your guy (or know someone) Tranny's are bulky and heavy to ship. 💡

I remember when a Fey (argent) bumper was $100 for the Bullnose trucks and $125 for chrome with the plastic tread! I suppose I'm old....

Stack some hockey picks like we all did body lifts back in the day. Be sure to use grade 5 bolts and thick fender washers on both sides of the cab sheet metal. 💡 DAMHIK....

I like the NAPA Belden Premium line. If you REALLY want Motorcraft, look for NOS rather than the crap they sell today (it will still have the same #)

Google Lens would probably be able to identify that bumper in the first couple of screens. It's pretty amazing how far it's come! The old Amazon Fire Phones had a similar ability, except using AWS, and it was a decade cruder.

Evaluate the frame, especially between the side tank and channel. Also check the brake & fuel lines hidden in there. Check where the end of that brake line turns down to meet the rear axle brake hose/splitter. (They like to rot in that corner of the cross member) Check the rear spring hangers, from the top, into the pocket formed by the shackle mount. Check the frame mounts, body bushings and especially the 'horns' that the radiator support mounts too. Look on top of the gas tanks (use a mirror or endoscope if you need to) Gas tanks rot inside from water bottom, but they rust out on top -especially the sender bungs- from mud and grime holding water and road salt up where it's hidden. If you can bring a floor jack raise each wheel and feel for loose bearings and tie rods/ball joints in the front. Check for grumbling bearings and dragging brakes in the back. Those are the things I'd look at if I were buying one of these trucks, that I had no history of.

You've got to realize that his main business is '60s Torino's, Cougars and Mustangs. Harnii in vehicles that old are usually toast. These '80's trucks hold up pretty well from what I see. Though yours is pretty early, with a 335 and all that Cleveland goodness going on!

Probably me, and I'm glad you did! ((Progress is Gooooood! )) That's awesome that you got the low deck block right out the gate! I'm always recommending to 460 folks to have their block squared and zero decked. Often I wonder if they understand how much it helps, not only with getting good compression numbers, but with quench. I've built a few 5.0 Windsors back when I was into Mustangs. 500/500 is already a very solid number for a 351! What are you shooting for from this build?

Yep, I know where John is. 💡 Somebody the other day needed his contact info for a sticker.....

Yikes! The recent footage of tornado damage I've seen is quite harrowing. 🌪️ Will, glad the instrument is functioning correctly, and it's just a harness problem.

https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2024/05/microsoft-developing-mai-1-language-model-that-may-compete-with-openai-report/

Gary is the only one who has the power to add someone to the map. But I'm sure he will make an appearance!

Hopefully you get a good response!

Welcome Mike! Glad you've joined us. Gary will be along to ask if you'd like to be on our members map (need a zip code) I've done a bit of harness lacing. It can definitely be an iterative process.

Did you test it before install? Sounds to me like you have it wired backwards. Try connecting your 'ground' to power, and your 'power' to ground.

And it NEEDS to go to the grey single plug between the regulator plug and the charge stud!

Sorry if I misremembered. I do remember sending you the 2 sheave pulley I got from L&L with my alternator bracket.... He's saying that he doesn't see the stator looping from regulator to the stator connection next door on the 3G.

No They have a metric lug pattern.

My alternator has been on for over a decade with no lock washer and no threads sticking out. Though I went the opposite way you did, and put blue loctite on the threads. I think Gary put his pulley in the lathe and ate the hole a little deeper for the nut. Higher revs may just be pulling too much current, trying to replenish the battery to 14.35V. The squeal isn't going to damage the belt, and as soon as it heats up from slipping the mu of the rubber will give the belt better traction (friction) on the pulley. Some people sandblast the sheave thinking texture has better grip, but I think it will just wear the belt faster too. I'm glad you finally came back to this, Will! It's an excellent job you've got it done, and are now ready to dig into the next project!

The large yellow wire connects to the cab harness at C610 and on the cab side splits through two fusible links, providing constant power and the ignition switch with power. I forget how Gary has it drawn, but it can go to either the megafuse lug or the always hot stud if the fender mounted starter relay. (essentially, the battery+)

Bottom clips are different Also there's usually a pair of setting blocks at the bottom.

The problem is the blue fusible link they're spliced to.... 😉

Good catch! I didn't look at the connector. They join at a fusible link that is nowhere near big enough for the output of a 130A 3G, which can easily reach 160A...

Yes, that is correct, if you have a 7V Motorcraft choke cap (usually a single bullet connector)

Yeah, the or/bk wires are 2G.... and that's a problem. Go to your local auto parts and get an HMEG holder and a 6Ga cable (intended for a garden tractor, or something) abt 28" long to go from the output stud of the alternator to the 150A fuse holder. If your alternator is pointed straight up, you might figure out the fuse holder and then use a coat hanger wire to get a length for the output cable.... 💡