ArdWrknTrk

I got the Trans-Dapt spacer and 'won' the 1826 this morning... I have a kit on the way too.

I've replaced the socket for the resistor *twice* in my truck.... No relay on the hot side is going to help that.

Well, I bought an egr block off spacer today. The eBay Edelbrock still doesn't have a bid on it, with less than 2 days to go... Washed my truck for the first time this year.

Yes, they're place bolts. You can tell by the castellated and undercut head. You shouldn't really need any threadlocker. The undercut head of a place bolt acts as a belville washer to maintain clamping force. Carroll Smith mentions in his book that these bolts are used on farm and construction equipment. That Deere or Caterpillar bolts are just as good. ARP have made a name for themselves and are good fasteners, but they probably weren't around when he took the GT40 to LeMans to trounce Ferrari. It's been eight years since I swapped engines. The bolts were ~$1.25 from Ford at that time.

It could be the crossmember rivets as outlined in the Ford TSB. I'm not sure how much is new in the front end of that truck. Suppose I'd check the calipers, tie rods and ball joints just for s&g if I had a lift like you.

It's the 1826 so it's jetted a little richer than the 'emission' carb. Besides, carbs are supposed to meter fuel to air flowing through them, not "we're going to meter x amount of fuel for every second". As long as the mains are big enough for my rpm limit it should be okay. I'm replacing some floor, stringers and bulkheads in a rather rare little boat. It's a Steve Stepp manufactured 22 Velocity Light Layup. With the Mod VP on the back and the things being done it should break 90. Polyester is good for a glass matrix but it is *not* an adhesive! I need to bond and tab new structural members in place and get rid of the flex that cracked the old ones. So i have some Biaxial and uni CF going into the laminate. This motor was 350 in stock form, and it is NOT stock anymore. If you want to bond *to* cured polyester, vinylester is a good choice, but I have epoxy (and know how to use it)

I'm watching the used 1826 on Ebay. Had to buy a new phone and a couple of gallons of epoxy and yards of carbon fiber this week! That, plus the valve covers, lots of fuel +, +, +.... Don't know what position I'll be in when the auction closes.

Yes, I won I already have 2 dozen stainless flange head bolts, a new breather cap (from U-techcenter), a can of PJ1 600° wrinkle black, and those red silicone gaskets. I guess some wire separators/holders are going to be needed. Truck now has a hiccup coming off trailing throttle. At least it's not dying coming to a stop.

Arrrgh I just spent 5 minutes making a post and lost it... Stock Ford bolts are the best.

I was doing some work on a boat last week. While rewiring the pumps (trim, fuel, bilge) It hit me... This *is* a 460, and those OMC king cobra valve covers look pretty close to the Blue Thunder ones. I like that they're not 4" tall There is a small flat in the center but no provision for wire separators. If I can get them for $100 and clean them up I will finally be rid of tin. Ebay can be fickle. A lot can happen in the last minutes of any listing. Same with the used 1826. If it doesn't attract a lot of bids, a kit and a Ford throttle stud are not a big deal. I know enough people with a fuel log kicking around the garage. Meanwhile my truck is not missing, and stalling if I brake too hard any more. Not today but recently I've also replaced the muffler and made a head pipe flange. Got a *new* spare tire rim and cleaned up the carrier. Bridged the passenger side door at the vent window pivot. There's always something when your truck is a dd.

I'm making do without a shop compressor right now. The 5Ah 20V battery and the 1820 converter worked with my DeWalt impact gun to get the lugs off my truck last week when I replaced the hubs and rotors. But there is no replacement for blasting, painting or getting a bead to seat.

I changed the floats in my Holley to brass today. (Frickn fracken non adjustable float valves...) Replaced some fuel line and vacuum caps. At least it is driveable again. I want to fix my leaky valve covers and am about giving up on Blue Thunder. But, I did see a pair of OMC inboard covers on Ebay that might do the trick. Kinda wish I still had access to a bead blast cabinet and a powder coating oven. (That shop closed a couple of months ago)

The stator terminal on a 130A 3G is by itself instead of part of a multi prong plug like the 2G. Most people doing this swap use the pigtail for an A/C clutch. (single gray locking connector) You can splice both wires to this connector or use a 'piggyback' spade connector, covered in heatshrink tubing. This kind of terminal/connector seems to be common in the HVAC trade. I've been thinking of a carburetor swap and have to consider a little rewiring of my alternator anyway. If I have a phone with a camera that can focus by then I will take pictures of what I remove.

Well the "RV" cam in my engine is real crap on top. 5K and it begins to wheeze. So I should be looking for a 650 to rebuild (because $ is an issue *always* it seems) I don't want to cripple myself even though this Holley is a 600 where the stock 4180 was closer to 650. I appreciate the tuning advice Gary. If you ever find yourself confronted with Weber or SU's lmk.... Hopefully Bill will see this. I guess I am the one to get the ball rolling. Lol Recently I've replaced the diff cover, rear spring perches, bought a D60 (dually) axle, replaced the front rotors and hubs as part of a brake service, replaced the head pipe flange as part of a new muffler, put new tires on the back, got a *new* spare wheel and cleaned up the spare crossbar, and Idk how many other little tasks.... Where is the wdydtytt thread???

Changed my plugs/cap/rotor yesterday. Other than burning oil in #7 the engine looks like it's very lean even though mileage has been deteriorating and it drives like it's fat until fully warmed up. The truck has a six year old Holley 08457-s now, but due to current lack of shop, driveway, space, time and money I'm thinking to just swap it out. Since both Gary and Bill are here I'm going to ask: 600 or 750? AFB or AVS? And why? Want to keep stock aircleaner and an electric choke.(yes I know stator v/ 12V)