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Click the time shown at the right of the thread listing and it will take you to the last post. I guess my screen menu overlay problem should be in this thread. How come when I reply to a thread through my Gmail instead of visiting the site all the header garbage shows up in my post and I have to go back and edit it out? And now email notification of this post showed up in Gmail as being a reply to 'Free Tires' So something weird is going on.

Click the time shown at the right of the thread listing and it will take you to the last post. I guess my screen menu overlay problem should be in this thread. How come when I reply to a thread through my Gmail instead of visiting the site all the header garbage shows up in my post and I have to go back and edit it out?

I'm seeing it now in the tab and on my bookmarks.

Combustion pressure is kept out of the crankcase by the upper piston rings. Of course there are ring gaps and cylinder wear so this is never 100%. A leakdown tester measures this, so you will find a number like 5% is very good, 10% is ...ok, 15% on way out, 20% is not good at all. In multi cylinder engines (except for oddities like the boxer or twingle) one piston is going up while another is going down so the internal crankcase volume doesn't change very much. What the PCV valve allows out is pressure that gets past the piston rings (blow by) and oil vapor churned up by crankshaft windage. So the PCV valve pulls from one corner and the breather in the other corner allows filtered air into the engine. If your house was full of smoke you could put a fan blowing out one window, but if you opened a window on the other side of the house the smoke would clear much quicker. ....anyway, back to puffing. Noticeable crankcase pressure often comes in pulses. I've had beat engines that would actually blow smoke rings out the breather! If there is excess pressure in the crankcase it will push oil out the seals and gaskets. Some people have gone so far as to put a second pcv in the place of the breather. Constant suction from both sides creates vacuum in the engine, pulling air (and dust, engine & road grime) in through the gaskets and seals. Slurps the oil back in but also accelerates wear.

Ayyyyyyyy!

Yep, Samsung Android Now the menu goes away but the keyboard is so compressed it's hard for me to type. And I lose the right side of my reply

Bill, that's a very kind offer. In a few days when I sort out what's going to happen to the engine I will know if I need the old style stick &tube or the newer click in style. If this engine is a tight inside as I think it may be I will use it pretty much as is. Then I need to find some D3VE heads that aren't cracked, notched or badly warped. I will use Scott's templates to clean up the hump and short side, then find a decent machinist to do a 3 angle valve job and cut the guides for seals. I've asked all my old Mustang buddies but the only one with any recommendation was for 50-60 miles away in north jersey. Evidently this guy builds 5.0's but knows little about the 385.(makes sense given he wasn't even a teenager when production stopped)

So, here I am in the reply window, taking a screenshot.

This is one of the reasons I miss Harry so much. He would listen -and understand- that having a small chamber to make the CR, but the piston is still .040 or more in the hole is just going to destroy itself. I'm not interested in running race fuel, way too much cam, and/or timing at tdc to control detonation. I will tear down this engine and determine if it needs to be bored or the crank needs polish. 35k from new, I hope everything ends up 0/0! If so I get the kit and mock it up to determine how much to deck each bank. (Because they are often not the same)

When I get back to my tablet.

Once again I lose my damn post because Gary's menu overlays the reply screen..... Arrrgh! (...Lots of babble about my machinist, the 'new' engine, etc.....) Bill, Scott and Paul *seem* to agree that D9TE blocks are at 10.322" This doesn't really matter it I'm going to have the block decked. That will be determined on mockup. And though Paul says only take it to 10.300 because you will have a choice of pistons later down the road, realistically this is the end of the road for this truck and massive ice's in general. 1968-1972 460 pistons stock dish, -12 cc, 1.76 compression height 1973-1986 460 pistons stock dish, -22cc, 1.75 compression height 1987-1992 460 EFI pistons stock dish, -7 cc 1.76 compression height 1993-1997 460 EFI pistons stock dish, -15cc, 1.77 compression height

Looks to me like someone had the timing case or oil pan off and used rtv like they should where the the front half circle seal meets the pan rail gaskets. You could always install a one piece oil pan gasket but it's a real pita with the engine in the truck. When you had the PCV disconnected to check for vacuum at the hose how bad was the puffing coming from the valve? A leakdown test will determine if your blow by is the same across all cylinders (worn) or something like broken rings in one cylinder.

Bill, Are you deleting browser cache and cookies every time you close a session?

Bill, I was asking about running early efi ('88-'92) pistons -7 cc dish- with carb D3VE heads. This should net me 9.5:1 at zero deck. A .045 Felpro head gasket would be my quench. Not revving past 6k. I know about the Price Motorsport CA460-EFI adapter and their angled port plates to run a milled carb manifold on the efi heads. Regular D3 heads at around 97cc with the efi pistons will get me the CR I'm looking for and are much easier to find than D0VE's. I could do a little porting and they would support 350hp easily on stock valve sizes. F3 pistons have a 15cc dish D3 pistons have a 22cc dish E7 pistons have a 7cc dish

Looking over my options and these two efi engines '89 & '96 it seems to me that a .060 over and zero decked with the E7 pistons at 7 cc dish and D3 heads at 97cc will put me right about 9.5:1. I know the valve angles changed, and am wondering about valve clearances. Of course this depends on the cam A cheap E7TE rebuild kit is $294 from Rock Auto. Comp 940 springs are $90 And a Summit cam kit is $120 Or the Comp cam for $150 + lifters.

Exactly my point! The carbureted 302's had a metal tube going to the front of the spacer and this would get completely clogged. Sure, the PCV valve itself would rattle, but there was no suction and oil would pump out all the seals, even with decent ring seal. Another point on 5.0's That line going to one cylinder can cause a lot of damage. There is a reason most PCV's draw to a central location... One cylinder (#7?, 8?) Is getting ALL the oil and that can and will cause detonation that destroys the top of the piston down to the compression ring land. It is a common mod to move the PCV vacuum source to the plenum for this reason.

Exactly my point! The carbureted 302's had a metal tube going to the front of the spacer and this would get completely clogged. Sure, the PCV valve itself would rattle, but there was no suction and oil would pump out all the seals, even with decent ring seal.

3.5 quarts in 500 miles??? Have you checked for suction at the PCV valve? Sometimes the tube going to the carb flange is completely filled with cack. Maybe your rings are sticking from sitting? I would run a quart of Rislone or ATF before the next oil change and use high detergent diesel oil from here on out. My truck hit 430,000 yesterday and that means I have ~150,000 mi on this engine. Always using cheap diesel oil and a Motorcraft FL1A it was amazingly clean inside when i swapped valve covers a week or two ago. Do the cheap stuff first, before condemning the engine.

Goes right in the same slot. Obviously due to the flanged crank it needs to go in as the crank is installed -and the reason I put 'one piece' in apostrophes- The seal is $66, but reports are very positive.

460's are notorious for main seal leaks. A little bit of glycol brake fluid in the oil will soften and swell them but it is not a long term fix. Jon Kaase is now selling a 'one piece' RMS for the 460 that is not supposed to leak, but it is $$$. I imagine if you figured how many quarts of oil it saved you and how much time you put into cleaning the engine, driveway, or replacing the clutch because it got wet you would be way ahead of the game. Edit=spelling

I've 'adapted' A.I.R. pumps before, for the same reason you mentioned. Brackets, pulley flanges, shaft offset (stickout) and outlet elbows differ. WAY easier to just get the right one. Thankfully I don't have to go through that any more

**idle** in the morning. Damn autocorrect.

Well, a Carter YF choke cap works exactly *opposite* of an Edelbrock... Time to wire this crap up and have an idea in the morning.

385 series engines started in 1968. Ethyl Hi-test 97 was available everywhere and the early C8, C9 & D0VE-C heads had small chambers and rail rockers but regular sized ports. D3 heads have bolt down rockers, big thermactor humps in the exhaust ports and a bigger chamber. Early engines also had a .022 lower deck height. Cutting block AND head costs more $ and results in needing custom pushrods. With dove heads I can deck the block, use stock pistons and pushrods to come in around 9-9.5:1 and have good quench. Guides and spring seats may need to be cut, depending on the cam chosen. Good info here from one of the acknowledged masters of iron headed 385 ' s http://reincarnation-automotive.com/casting-numbers-descriptions-1-index.html

I just got to thinking. EFI pistons have much less dish than the carb truck pistons. I wonder what my static cr would be with D3VE heads and a decked EFI short block? Would the valve angles/pockets work? I don't do Facebook. Don't want to know anything about the people who want to know me or any of my family