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Imagine smashing *your* head against the seat 30-40 times a second. Once a guide starts to get sloppy and the valve does not land concentric they will deform and also get too hot because of the lack of heat sink.

I got rear front and front rear bushings as well as some ttb pivot bushings yesterday. I accessorized the engine stand I borrowed with some 7/16-14 Gr8 bolts, a pin to lock rotation, and a 18" long 1/2" pipe nipple with caps and rubber bumper grommets. Hopefully it is strong enough for a 460. Still trying to get my hands on a good pair of D3VE's. Machine work is fine but I don't want to pay for cracked or notched heads. Money is real tight

Only time I've ever seen a cracked exhaust valve was from running the engine without any exhaust.

How many miles since the last valve job was done? What kind of use does this truck see? Define "bad". Are they worn out? Bent? Burnt? How do the seats and guides look? What springs are you using?

Spray guns and sand blasters don't work too well on batteries

K2?

Start with the vacuum line coming from the junction manifold on the cowl into the cab by the heater core. That is the one that gets baked and marinated in fumes in the engine bay (and the one most likely to fall apart) If it looks good then pull the heater control and check for vacuum there.

I think we need a What Have You Done *With* Your Truck Today thread. It's true what they say 'There's no replacement for displacement' That's a 12K winch?

Newer catalytic converters have more complex catalysts than early ones but that does mean they have to operate in a very narrow range of fuel ratios, and a carburetor is going to be near impossible to meet that. The air can be plumbed in near the entrance of the cat. It doesn't have to go directly into the case.

Impressive!

Ok, so the A.I.R. check valve is just that. A spring loaded disc that only allows the pump to push air into the exhaust but does not allow exhaust to come out. The big metal outlet allows a flexible aluminum tube to connect the air cleaner. This preheats incoming air in cold weather, eliminating carb icing and warming up the engine quicker. If you have a large line missing it may be the red rubber line to the choke warmer.

Every time I try to reply to a thread having come here from the email link the response is that my submit failed. Then I scroll back down to the bottom of my reply and hit submit *again*, and it goes through. *every time*

Just use a piece of heater hose for the Thermactor line. If it has any tight or unusual bends you can probably find a molded hose for some other application that will fit with a little trimming. Bring the old one in to the store with you. ... It isn't doing anything for your truck right now anyhow.

Your signature shows on my phone. The Air Injection Reaction system is crucial to emissions whether carb or EFI. Added oxygen helps ignite unburnt fuel (CO) in the exhaust manifolds and to get the catalytic converter up to temperature.

It is.....

That looks like the A.I.R. check valve. Is the smog pump on your engine working? Definitely replace the hose (with any hose) The thermactor system is there to burn off excess CO before it can make it out the pipe.

Gary, It looks like he has all the rods. Just needs cylinders, clips and the 21952 plastic retainer. Like I said, locks are available on Amazon and Dorman/HELP has the retainers.

Yeah, I'm not going to need all that. I have the gfaw rating and will just get Moog through Amazon. Sleeves are a LOT easier to get out with an air chisel, but I like to smash my fingers. I may just have to borrow a ball joint press because when I was replacing the rear bushings I was blowing up grade 8 bolts with the impact gun trying to pull them in.

If I keep the TTB front end I'm *going to* need them. 250's are very hard on bushings because the leaf springs twist in an arc. Trucks with coils or a straight axle don't have any problem. No, I didn't notice anything except that we are on a new page. What exactly changed?

Rub pads installed! Looking at the spring bushings in the front I really should replace them. (Are there part numbers on the suspension page?) Shouldn't waste my time if I'm going to do a D60 swap. That is down the road given my finances.

If I select the evtm it still pushes some text off the bottom of the page. Also, perhaps it could have a little more opacity.

My spring rub pads should be here today. Hopefully they will eliminate some of the squeaking Unfortunately I've had something stuck in my one good eye for the past two days, so I'm pretty useless for work.

Gary When I clicked the link in Gmail (so I don't get all that junk in my reply) it took me to the flareside thread. This time it took me here.

... and now notifications to this thread are directed to 'second chance 85 flareside' Chris, my screen resolution is 2560x1600. ... I don't think that is the issue. When Gary first started his website I had the same drop down or cascading menu issue you do (on the cottage homepage)

Another thing I wish there was a reply button at the bottom of the thread. I have to scroll back up to the top of a post and hit reply, but sometimes what I'm posting may not be relevant to that last post, or even any post on the page.