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There are more heads than I could ever know. But I do know that the one year only low compression open chamber D2VE heads were the worst for detonation. I'm so used to hearing the story of 'the one that got away' "Oh yeah, I junked one of those last year." "I used to know a guy.. but he's dead and his wife threw all his **** out" ....... I'm going to have to make an effort to find a place for the better of these two efi engines (30k miles!)and get my hands on some heads to work over.

Bill, I replaced the gaskets within the past year and spent 1/2 hour feeling around for leaks (until I burned my wrist/hand too many many times) Everything looked real good and the bolts were tight when i torched the spiders out last week. I may try to find someone with a smoke machine I can plug into the tailpipe.

385 series engines started in 1968. Ethyl Hi-test 97 was available everywhere and the early C8, C9 & D0VE-C heads had small chambers and rail rockers but regular sized ports. D3 heads have bolt down rockers, big thermactor humps in the exhaust ports and a bigger chamber. Early engines also had a .022 lower deck height. Cutting block AND head costs more $ and results in needing custom pushrods. With dove heads I can deck the block, use stock pistons and pushrods to come in around 9-9.5:1 and have good quench. Guides and spring seats may need to be cut, depending on the cam chosen.

When and if I ever get a computer with an optical drive again, so I can look up these part numbers, the chart will be helpful in determining the finish.

And that engine ended up in Rusty, or Brownie? or where??? Scott also says that the XE-262-h can be used in a 460 and it is a blast to drive, but that you have to watch how much compression you have. I've got a Torino/Cougar fanatic buddy who moved to Florida. He probably has a few pair of regular 429-460 heads in addition to his motherlode of PI/CJ/SCJ/SOC heads. Have you ever seen the internals of a genuine Holman-Moody Talladega engine? (Yeah, he's that nuts.....) I would be real happy with any regular C8, C9, or D0VE-C heads to do a little rubbing on.

This morning I rerouted my fuel and vacuum lines, swapped for a big metal fuel filter, adjusted my hood latch with a carbide burr in the die grinder, tried to aim my headlamps, and searched some more for my ticking sound. This afternoon I finally noticed that my choke has shipped! I'm going to start looking for a carbureted 460 to mildly build and swap in. Or just a pair of early heads that I don't have to do so much work on compared to D3VE's Then I can use one of these efi engines that are being scrapped. I was perusing Scott's site and he was recommending the XE256H cam that that I was looking at. I'm going to need better springs and would like lightweight retainers and pushrods (just because it can never hurt)

I posted the FRPP number of the rear sump kit and am well aware. But I do not need a pan or a pickup. If one of these later engines actually *had* the tube attached I would have at least scavenged the pan and push in pickup tube. But nooooo. Neither of them have the stick and tube. And as far as I know the stick and tube are not available by themselves. My Carter choke cap still hasn't shipped. Ebay sellers that show stock, create a shipping label, and then order the part in instead of just having it drop shipped really tick me off. While I was under the truck messing about with my dipstick I noticed my cab floor is going again (right under my heel, as usual) I have another floor and a mig welder, but no place to fix it. Who makes decent window seals for these trucks? The LMC ones are all cracked and crumbling after 5 years. Passenger side door is starting to blister in the pinch weld. I'm just going to stick some plastic sprues through the drains and pour in some epoxy while I'm working on the boat.

I didn't do anything *to* my truck today, but I did go buy oil, a filter, and a brass plug for where the egr temp valve fits in the waterneck. Yesterday I did have the truck up to about 95-100 and the carb seems ok (although the truck is down on power) I have two people trying to give me efi 460's, but I don't have room to strip them to the short block, can't use the heads, intake or timing case.... so. Also neither has a dipstick. I spent over an hour trying to get an o-ring to seal mine and it's p!$$!#@ me off. I also imagine my oil pan gasket looks about like my valve cover gaskets did. Engine out operation for that! I may as well just find another and freshen it up. Cam recommendations? I'll do some grinding if I can find the right engine to work on.

Gary, Are you sure? was this an option like efi in '85? It seems a DSII conversion is easy to make right and wouldn't use any temp sensor. heck, my '87 has a harness that accepts EEC-IV. If it is a tcvv it may be for egr, or the distributor.

One thing I did for my truck last year is make my door lock cylinders (21984) the same as my ignition key. I ordered the Standard Automotive Products DL-3 from Amazon for ~$13 (pair) and changed the pins over so I only need the ignition key now. Bill borrowed my pin set to rekey some Chrysler locks as well... If you don't want everything keyed the same you can just install them as they come from the box. The set comes with 2 keys that work with the locks in the package. This kit comes with flimsy retainer clips (28023) and rubber gaskets for the cylinder flange. Word of warning: Be very careful with the plastic clip that retains the rod. (21970) They get brittle with age, and I had to find a Dorman/HELP! replacement.

ars technica It was an article about bizarre medical coding

Yeah, I see the 'W' like Chris. I did come across this on ARS this morning.

So, let's not get ahead of ourselves. ...

Yeah, it had a miss and the mileage has been getting worse and worse. I don't have any jet or spring box to tune this carb, like I do the Holley. Certainly the valves and vacuum need to be right before trying to set up a new carb. Soon this hole I'm digging will be deep enough to hang myself...

Yes a Carter mechanical fuel pump. The only place I could have a leak is in the thermactor crossover at the back of the heads. But I didn't hear anything while poking around back there with my stethoscope. More and more this seems like the symptoms of a timing chain. Rich at idle, lack of power, etc. The tick could be a bent/burnt valve. lord knows I run it 'til it floats often enough.... A leakdown will tell more. Without any shop or space this is difficult. > Yours has a mechanical fuel pump - right? Rich at idle could be due to > high float level caused by too much pressure. But most mechanical pumps > don't put out more than 6 psi, which is the max for an Eddy. > > On the tick, is there any chance you have an exhaust leak?

460 H.O. is a little redundant, don't you think?

There's a few 460 aircleaner decals on eBay. I chose the PI version.... There's orange and black with checkered flags. Black on white with a blue border. And, and, and...

I ordered a YF cap from eBay. Hopefully this will get the 650 AVS fully functional. Timing bump did seem to help a little. Truck still seems very rich at idle even though I can't turn the screws any leaner without dropping rpm's. Maybe when I get the choke working I can lean the idle out some more. I need to check the timing chain for slack (though it was advancing and retarding smoothly yesterday) Ten years..... maybe it's time for a cam and timing set? IR thermometer doesn't show any one cylinder as dead. May be a bad lifter, bent pushrod, or something. I can not hear the ticking in either valve cover though. I've never seen a burnt intake valve. When I clean the engine again I will pull the valve covers and check for loose rockers or one that isn't fully opening.

One of my first girlfriends after I got out had a couple of Rambler's, a station wagon, and some other Nash in the weeds of her yard. I got one driving around under its own power but I think her dad just wanted them as lawn ornaments.

I don't know what kind of sticker, but it looks like it needs something. Years back we had a dialog on FTE about fonts for Dad's aircleaner. What style is appropriate for an '85? What would have this lid looked like from the factory?

Gary, Why don't you have a sticker on your air cleaner?

I installed the Eddy dual feed fuel line and made a few adjustments. (You never know why you need rod bending pliers, but you do.... If you have an Edelbrock) I got a grommet and a new breather filter. Installed them, a new heat riser aluminum flex hose. Did a little engine bay cleanup. Fed the little red bitch $60 worth of premium and a couple of quarts of oil (the old valve covers were leaking badly) Kicked the base timing up to 12° btdc. Still have a bad tic, but after going all over the engine with my stethoscope I still can't find it.

Just cut a slot in the cone with a Dremel cutoff disc. Then you can use a regular screwdriver to loosen the ring on the cap Seems to me, if the coil is wound in the same direction it should move the same way. But once again, I'm wrong Bill mentioned a YF cap. Maybe the Ford OEM from a 4.9/300 would do the job for me using stator power and I can skip the wiring? Who do I know that has I-6 parts?

I've got to ask. Does the Motorcraft choke coil act opposite of an Edelbrock choke??? They are wound in the same direction but the Motorcraft cap puts the choke on as it heats up. I was hoping to keep everything stockish, and not add a bunch of wires, relays, and crap. This is turning into a real pita.

Chrome on a Samsung tablet and a Nokia phone I'll have to check if it's there in my recents/favorites