ArdWrknTrk

Phone found. Nasty oil changed

I've made lunch, I'm on my second cup of coffee. Going to go change my oil if I can beat the rain. Then off to grout the back splash. Help my friend find the phone he lost at the birthday party (battery is dead) Later I will go up to New Canaan, wire some outlets, hang some sheet rock, corner bead and tape it. Then off to Trumbull to repair a friends garage door & opener. I'll find time to breathe tomorrow. (I hope)

Well, i didn't get the oil change done. But I'm okay exceeding 6k given prior UOA's. I did add a Ford style ball throttle stud to the 750 Holley. Changed in the LRC regulator. Spent a couple of hours going over my niece's new/old Land Rover Disco II. So, fluids checked and filled, wash, wax and lots of back to black on the plastic. Wiper blades for that damn thing are $28 a piece! (for nothing special) I also replaced the blade lock on my cordless Sawzall and the cord and handle on my old demolition hammer. Hung two doors, six drapes, three wall registers, a HUGE mirror, and installed a back splash. Made time for a four year olds birthday party. Cooked dinner and am looking forward to 2:30-3 am when it's time to do it all over again.

I changed my slave cylinder and replaced the bronze pedal bushing/adjusted pushrod this morning. Will do an oil change when it gets light out.

Pretty sure it's Trans-Dapt. How much rear offset is there in a Zf cross member?

I got the login message sometime in the last 24 hours. Thankfully I have Chrome auto filling the request so it is only one click.

Offset crossmembers are available.

These days you can get anything mixed in a spray can at the auto paint shop. $10-12 for single stage non metallic.

Probably a single stage color from their automotive division. Why not? It IS noticable

What is "Miller's blue"?

David do these 300 trucks come with a phenolic or fiber timing gear? My truck came with a nylon tooth cam gear (for noise reduction) and when I had my pan off it took me a whole hour to pick all the plastic shards out of my pickup screen. Fortunately my engine is pretty clean inside because it gets a steady diet of diesel oil with all those detergents and the ubiquitous FL1A.

I'd stay away from metallics, if anything for ease of touchup. how about one (or both!) Of the Ford engine blues? You'd certainly never be far away from the right color for repair. How about French Blue? ;)

It's gotta be blue to go with your tow rigs....

It was more of a joke,(scavenging the Bee for a Ford pickup) but you would need a big wire wound resistor to pass charging current. What are the ohms of the taps on a blower resistor?

Idiot light charging systems have a resistor in parallel with the battery light so if the bulb burns out the alternator still gets excited current. It would have to be a big resistor, but I think you have one on the firewall of the 'Bee.

If 4wd, the "right" 1356 has a cable drive in the output housing.

An auto reset breaker (like you use with a winch or plow) will come right back online as soon as it cools off. Which is it's purpose in the first place. Current limiting diode banks are going to screw you when there *needs* to be a surge, or tug.

Gary, in my internet reading I found several first hand reports of users claiming that Royal Purple made their ZF's shift like total 💩. After all my reading that was my take-away... to try anything except RP. Maybe it is different for diesel owners converting to SMF, but I thought that was just a noise issue, not how it shifts. If you had good luck with RP I will keep that in mind. RP Synchromax worked great in my Zf-5. People who bitch about rollover noise should just overfill their gearbox through the shifter with 80w GL4. Noise isn't hurting anything. Put some pressure on the clutch while stopped if it bothers you that much.

Aren't YOU the one who worked for Conoco???? I'm not a lubrication chemist, but I could give it a shot.

A fusible link is simply 'the weakest link'. Fusible links are sized two wire sizes under the circuit wire (I.e. 12Ga. circuit =16Ga. link) You don't want to do this if running a load like a winch. Auto reset circuit breaker is the way to go. imho CB's idea is a good one. I could see that whole triangle from the front of the deck up to the hitch with expanded metal welded to the bottom of the rails. Handy for chocks, chains, tarps etc.. A weatherproof box for straps and such is a necessity up here in the salty, icy, North East. .... ever try to use a strap that has been rolled up, wet, and frozen? It takes a LONG time to thaw out by the floor blower.

Got a few more pieces for my truck. per Scott's recommendations: A 750 Holley (yes, I know) 165° thermostat. A few sanding mandrels and taper & straight cartridges in 50 grit. A new -scratch and haze free- faceshield. Since I am without a reliable source of air I bought a speed controller. (I already have a couple of variacs and my 1/3 hp Foredom has a foot pedal, but not enough power for iron I think) Wired some lights and outlets in my container. Bought a little 2 stroke generator and right angle die grinder at the tool consignment store Saturday. Ordered some more LED's. Purchased an LRC regulator because of the start squeal of my 3G. Amazon delivered a new Exedy clutch slave cylinder (metal w/ a real bleeder) Very soon I need to get under my truck to replace the drivers floor AGAIN, and do some winter protection with my nasty cosmoline-like mixture.

I think that's a great idea Gary. Things like Type F are not hard to find but try looking for Type H. Or look at the latest recommendation for transfer case fluid! the 4406 was a nightmare until they specced a special fluid for it (and it's still a problem)

A 20mm ammo can is 14x18 x8 and under $20. They make great panniers for KLR's. Lol

Annnnnd now we understand the term 'sandbagging' at the track. (Or should that be slagbagging? ) It's time for you to get the engine in so you can cut that out.

I'm thinking this needs to be part of the lubricants resource. One reason is that on another forum I saw post after post debating the SAE 50 that the owner's manual calls for vs 80W90 gear lube, which some said was way too thick for a transmission or transfer case. But, looking at the chart 80W90 is actually slightly thinner than SAE 50. On the other hand, and as said above, viscosity is not the only aspect of a lubricant recommendation. So I tend to rely on the manufacturer's recommendation. Gary, Somewhere I think we need a concise primer on the SAE grading system since that is what we have to deal with in the US. ..... well, that and gear oil & greases. How it works and the changes made (say going from SH to SJ) MANY times I have tried (and often failed) to explain the difference between CI and SE oils, how to use a viscosity cup, that engine oil is measured at *two* temperatures and 10w30 is *not* going to help cold starts compared to 10w40, that ZDDP additives *will* contaminate your Cat and sensors (if you have them), need for assembly lube and break in oils in a new engine, why detergent and foam reducers are a good thing, what is an additive package, how to interpret a UEOA, ect... Often I just want to throw my hands up and send someone over to BITOG, just like I want to refer people to Candlepower Forums and Daniel Stern Lighting when they can't get the relationship between watts and lumens, output per watt of incandescent v led v HID etc, that color temperature (k) is not actual heat, and what it means for *human* vision And let's forget entirely explaining reflector shapes and diffusers. But I get that most of the people I'm trying to address won't bother reading over there any more than they will comprehend facts being given to them in response to some very basic ignorance they choose to believe and spew on the Internet.