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No The 460 bypass hose can be folded in half and then be pushed down into place On Aug 28, 2017 6:49 PM, "Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts]" <redacted_email_address> wrote:

Gary, The flat spot is 1 1/2" x just under 4" You can change the bypass if you cut it just right and fold it in half to get it on. Someone could have made a killing if they had come up with a tube that could be swapped in when the water pump is replaced.

I really don't know what I'm going to do about mounting the wire separators. For a second I thought about cutting the ones off my tin valve covers, but they are in great shape due to being oiled all the time. I would rather re-home them. Sure you could make some kind of badge the go there. Wasn't it Reamer who used to make those for various 'special edition' cars and trucks?

Both valve covers were badged "OMC 460" The paint stripper turned the clear covering to goo so I worked them off with the heat gun. The crinkle didn't end up as even as I would have liked, and I didn't get all the nicks out of the ribs prior to paint. But I'm happy to have no leaks and like the look. Need to paint the fill neck and get a grommet for the new breather now.

Tag was just because I was trying to get close. We backed off so as to give some room. People up in my azz when I'm trailering get on my nerves. Looks like original paint. Must have been '60's day at the track. Saw a stripped out Coronet and a SS/RS Camaro on trailers as well. > Cool! Didn't need the tag shot, it is obviously a '68. The round marker > lamps and the tail lights make it obvious - to me. 👍 > > Thanks for sharing!!!!

Proof enough that I got something done yesterday?

Here's a tease for you..

Here's a tease for you..

Might be leaner. But the 0-80457s is Holley's 'emissions' carb and 600 cfm v/ the Eddy being 650 and jetted for 'off-road'. I notice this at both part throttle and WFO. The truck just doesn't pull as hard and seems weak at 80-90 (whatever I could get to due to traffic). I might try switching vacuum advance sources as well. Maybe I will set up the advance curve again. But as with any tuning, you need to establish a baseline first. I did see something cool that might be of interest to you when I was up on the highway...... ;)

Well I got it done today. Sorta.... mostly...... Had a tough time locating the 934 PCV grommet and the breather cap grommet for the plastic elbow that points at the air cleaner. Finished the spacer conversion this morning, and sanded the valve cover ribs. Went to my friends and torched out the A.I.R. spider manifolds. Dug up a stepped cover stud and single sided fuel connection from his junk box. Although I thought I set everything up according to the instructions it's evident that the fast idle cam is set way too high and not backing off quick enough. I just loosened the choke cap and set it so the choke can never come on. (It's August) I set the mixture screws for highest steady idle and plus 1/8 turn out. Adjusted idle speed to about 800. First impressions are that it doesn't pull nearly as hard as the Holley. But it seems better mannered on transition from trailing to tip in.. My miss is still there, and is noticed coming from the carb as something between a tic and a faintly metallic sound. I need to investigate. Will have to find a place with shop air so i can bring my leakdown tester. Stupidly I did not check for loose rockers or bent pushrods while I had the covers off. It's late. I've been up since three and at this since 5:30 (except for a trip to the HF tent sale) TTYL.

I have DeWalt tools. Mostly the older 18V tools, and use the 1820 adapters. I have 2, 3 and 5Ah batteries. Having the extra juice really makes a difference. So, 2) 1/4" impact drivers 1) 1/2" impact gun 1) 1/2" hammer drill 1) 6 1/2" circular saw 1) 5" circular saw 1) 4 1/2" angle grinder 1) led light 1) reciprocating saw 2) chargers 4) 2 Ah batteries 2) 3 Ah batteries 3) 5 Ah batteries Ridgid tools look like a good deal but I'm too deeply invested in the yellow tools to switch at this point.

Yes, I do know. Just making the point that I've finally gotten the bad taste out of my mouth from past association with the name. Your carb has plastic bowls. I guess that means no corrosion when this crap sold for fuel comes apart after sitting for a week or two in humid weather?

I think so. Obviously I haven't run it yet. The pop up springs have some pitting that bothers me.

There was a lot of pitting in both the pump cavity and the needle piston cavities. A little fill with JB Weld and some wet-or-dry paper around the proper mandrel hopefully cleaned everything up.

Gary, Is there a link to this Edelbrock manual online? The pop-up springs were pretty wasted when i finally pulled the needles and pistons out of this carb.

This is the other Jim. I just tore down a 650 cfm Edelbrock 'Thunder' AVS today. Seems pretty simple, but all the linkages are a little fiddly. I'm used to Holley's and use the blue gaskets so i don't have "fabric" or any of the leaks Gary alludes to. I guess I can give a full report when my fuel line comes in next week. I think Demon is OK, having learned to put my issues with Barry Grant behind me.

Some progress today (Progress is good! ) I got the valve covers cleaned, stripped, washed, solvent washed, painted and the ribs sanded. I got the carburetor stripped, rehoned, cleaned, rebuilt and adjusted to the instructions. That carb must have been sitting full of water, and it was REALLY crappy inside. I got the spacer filled, and the port plugged. Picked up a couple of feet of 3/8 fuel line at NAPA when I ran for more carb cleaner. I know, I know... pics or it didn't happen. When i get onto wifi and can sync my phone, I'll post them

Kit came today. Valve covers came today. Fuel 'log' OTW. Any gotcha ' s or things to look out for with an AVS carb? I need to pick up some high heat epoxy for the spacer. Usually I'd use Coltronics out of Long Island but I don't even know if they exist anymore. Potted a lot of super spooky military grade electronics in that stuff before. I think some refractory grade paste epoxy is going to be fine in this case.

The carb has bigger secondaries, but nothing like a Q-jet The egr block off adapter (and the spacer sold with the carb) are for spread bore manifolds. I need to fill the spacer with high heat epoxy and reshape it to fit my pink rubber Motorcraft E8TZ-9447-A gasket

Carb seems in good shape. I haven't opened it up because the kit isn't here yet. The valve covers were shipped parcel post... Both the Eddy and the Trans-Dapt spacer are for spread bore manifolds so I'm going to have to do some filling and grinding. I also have to find a line to route the PCV to the front.

I got the carb yesterday. I need to grind some secondary clearance into the spacer. Ordered the chrome fuel line Still waiting on the rebuild kit. ...and the valve covers.

And I have a mechanical fuel pump, so no wiring just a sender.

96214 The "replace this plug every time or it will melt the harness" 2G TSB. (I was talking about the 3G swap article, wasn't I?

Why is a Holley dual feed $15 and an Edelbrock 8132 $85 ???? I still need to figure out how I'm going to work the choke. Running out of room on the fender and not wanting to dig in and install a box/panel