dirtymac

I'm not sure who replaced the mirror in my truck last but it wasn't factory and it was junk. I'm not in love with the LMC mirror, but I can see out of it and it doesn't shake, rattle, and roll driving down the road. Some of the LMC stuff is not so great, even if functional.

We knew ours was vacuum everything when we got it. Things would randomly start to hiss. Pull the door apart, replace a hose. Good to go. Repeat every other week. Sunroof isn't working? Vaccum leak. It would have been a lot harder to get rid of if it had a turbo :) Oh, did I mention the horse hair stuffed seats? So comfortable ... until they aren't. Oh and waiting weeks for parts from Germany ...

If I had felt like replacing 5 miles of vacuum hoses, we probably would have kept our 79 240D. That car hissed at me one too many times.

All I took from this was someone got kicked out and now I want to know what they did. I don't even care who they are

I like the introduction requirement. I think your original desire behind it is valid and "should" help prevent the passers-by. I don't think it is too much to ask someone for an introduction. I have seen some forums where you can't post until you have filled out certain things in your profile, which can also be helpful. I frequently use forums for all sorts of information and the majority of the time it is just reading things I have searched for answers to. However, if I can't find what I am looking for and feel the need to join a forum to pose a question, I feel obligated to follow their rules. Especially when no money is changing hands.

We had some on our 70's Mercedes but I never had to touch them. Could be a good sign. It sounds like you can open them up like a normal worm clamp and slip them over an existing hose. Is that the case? That would definitely be helpful for some things.

My failure rate with worm clamps doesn’t even register compared with the number I’ve bought and used over the years. If they look bad, rusted out, crooked, etc., I don’t use or reuse them. I have heard for years that they are garbage but my usage doesn’t show that. With that said, I’ve seen some go horribly wrong. But they were not clamps that I personally installed

Just found and read this thread. Very useful stuff! We replaced our heater core hoses yesterday and one of the crappy worm clamps I bought flattened out when I was tightening it. It didn't look too bad but it leaked. I'm hoping these constant tension clamps will do the trick. So people are using this style clamp on the radiator hoses as well? I haven't had any issues with the worm clamps there but I have been debating about replacing them with something better anywhere I have them.

We have the Holly style electric choke so the stud shouldn't be an issue. We were not planning to use the 4-port style valve for the heater shut off but we could always consider that in the future if this proves helpful. I'm not sure we will be able to determine the usefulness though. Once the A/C is working, it will be running 75% of the year so there would be no hot water flowing through that hose. I have plenty of hose that so if we end up not needing it or its in the way, we can always shorten it in the future.

Matt, I would actually appreciate any pictures you can get me of that setup. I haven't had the time yet to investigate this, but I know our carb at this setup from the factory. There is a hot air tube coming from the plate on the intake but it's just blocked off.

Thank you for the info! I am curious if that setup would have been used with an electric or hot air choke? We have an electric choke and we have part of the hot air choke tube but it is not connected to anything.

Part of our A/C upgrade is to install a 2-port heater core shutoff valve. While we are replacing the radiator, we are going to install that valve as well. To that end, I have some questions. First, my plan is to hook the valve up on the inlet side of the heater core. This seems like the best option but I'd like feedback if anyone disagrees. Second, does the flow direction matter for the heater core? The reason I ask is that I read somewhere that Ford recommended, at some point, swapping the flow direction yearly. I can't find a source for that now. I do see in other posts where Jim and Gary agree the flow direction doesn't matter. I just want to verify. Third, while looking at the service manual, I noticed that on the 8500+GVW trucks (which includes ours), the heater core inlet hose was looped up to a bracket on the carburetor choke. In Gary's shut-off valve instructions, he mentions this when he's describing the difference between the 2-port and 4-port valves. When we got our truck, we did not have this loop but we have replaced our carb with one that does have the bracket. However, we are using an electric choke now, so I don't think this loop is necessary unless it did something other than keep the choke warm.

We can definitely do that. We didn't remove the pressure relief valve at all. The one part we didn't think to check! We also know now, thanks to a junkyard manifold, that the valve has an o-ring, which we obviously have not changed either.

That's the fan clutch I have coming. I think a high-pressure switch would be nice to have but I'm not sure how easy it would be. I would need to it connect where the relief valve is and that would require at least one adapter for the switches I have found so far.

The click is related to the fan clutch not the A/C :)