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ArdWrknTrk

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Everything posted by ArdWrknTrk

  1. I picked up a box of Auveco clips at my local auto body supply. Box of 25 IIRC, but I'd rather be looking at them that looking FOR them....
  2. Progress is Gooooood! Are you all set with cables, fuse and pigtails Will?
  3. Vacuum is all about potential (restrictions just add hysteresis to the system) But diameter is VERY important if you're trying to get a good seal where you slip your splice over the plastic hard line....💡
  4. 1/16 is too small. 3/32 is about right for a tight seal.
  5. I have some other pack of shims (0.060" total) that my cheap brother bought, who knows why.... Anyway, they're not for a 10.25.
  6. The truck shop opens Monday at 8. Once I get the bearings pressed on I can set the new carrier side to side and reassemble.
  7. Yes, that's Ford's basic number for any and all vacuum lines. If there's anything left, I make a repair using a bit of small engine (weed whacker, chainsaw) Tygon fuel line. That fresh air door below the passenger hinge tends to get broken, and of course the line from the vacuum splitter/manifold on the cowl going into the cab for the climate control. Some people report up sizing and using nylon air brake line from a heavy duty truck, but I haven't tried that yet, so can't say how well it works.
  8. That's a very pretty truck CD! Shame to see it go, but I understand.
  9. I had to buy a pack of 10, so I have 9 shims left that fit 10.25 & 10.5 Sterling differentials. They are flat and light, so I can just stick it in an envelope USPS.
  10. Metric washers tend to have a small OD. Look for any 17mm washer in your local hardware/auto parts...
  11. A 5/8 washer (16ish mm). Is speced sloppy from SAE. It will usually fit a 17mm shaft. If you go looking for a "shim", look for 17mm, because a tighter tolerance means I must fit exactly.💡 I just went through hell finding a 50-70x 0.50mm pinion shim. It cost me $75! Don't get stupid...
  12. Blowing up my rear end has screwed me since January. I need to make some money, but it's a catch 22.
  13. Just use a heavy hammer (3-4#) Yeah you really need to use the existing 3/8-16 bolt. 8x1.25 is not even a sloppy fit in the adjuster arm. You can get a tap for ~$5ish at any big box. You don't need the set with the drill bit, it taps right out.
  14. I hear you on the $! I just paid $75 to get a 0.020" pinion shim (had to buy 10, and UPS shipping only option) Now I have to get my races pressed on, ( $20 each = $60+ tx) and I should have everything else I need to put my differential back together.
  15. This is why I say that you have to bend the kink in the adjuster arm. You're fine, as long as the harness isn't pointing at the block. The adjuster arm can go either front or back of the tapped 'ear' of the alternator. Be mindful that you can simply run a 3/8-16 tap into the Zamak case and tap the hole directly from 8x1.25 to 3/8 NC.
  16. Jim, I verified and the 3G I bought is M8 x 1.25. Question: Why tap it 3/8-16 NC? I have plenty M8 x 1.25 bolts on hand… Did I not explain that the current bolt is 3/8-16 and the damn crescent adjuster is slotted for 3/8? What happens when you put a 5/16ish bolt with tiny shoulders into a big slot? How well does to hold in that sloppy hole, and how smoothly does it adjust??? I'm DONE.
  17. I’m still collecting all required parts I’ll need before starting the swap. I got the 3G, but I have to first rebuild the C610 connector, plus I didn’t receive the ‘voltified’ Ammeter. I hoped I had all for this weekend, but seems it will take a bit longer. At the time I get all I need, I’ll proceed. There's been a LOT of discussion back and forth in your thread, Jeff. While Will seems more focused, or perhaps doesn't have the language difficulties that you do. At any rate, tangents make for discussion of minutiae, and there's a whole bunch of details over in your thread... 💡
  18. The heater loop on (these) Ford's is in bypass mode all the time. Anyone who has trouble filling a 385 or Windsor is doing it wrong. Bill is right, the heater hoses (where they pass into the heater box) is probably the highest point. Stick one hose out through the passenger hood hinge, so it's higher still, and put a funnel in it. Pour coolant until it flows out the disconnected neck of the heater core. Done.
  19. 3/32 at most. You can do it if you think you need it to fill the system.
  20. If the pinch weld where the glue sits is rusted out it's a nightmare. Needs new metal welded in, and a proper paint job before replacing the glass. Also, not many windshield guys today know how to remove and install the surrounding trim clips that fit onto the little metal studs
  21. Yeah, that's not good.. Damn M&A penny pinching Is ruining America!
  22. I always use Stant Chris. My 460 is different than Wheezers, in that it sits on top, not stuck on the front. You DO Know that the sticky gasket is to hold it in place, right?
  23. Those are great photos, Paul! Perhaps Gary can add them to document non-USA clusters? Clusters are modular. You can swap an mph speedo for kph, or add a tach. Clusters with tripmeter have a hole for the reset button (stalk) to poke through the lens. It's the same tach for 6 or 8 cylinder. There's just one terminal on the back that needs to be grounded to make the change. This should all be well documented by Gary -somewhere- on the site.
  24. I'm glad your stable is safe! I don't know how your town is set up. Is the easement part of a park or to use for operations or does your town have just a tree department like mine does? I have a pretty good relationship with the tree department here, and if they haven't properly maintained the tree they very much want to 'make it go away' before any hackles get raised. It will cost them 10x in lawyer fees what it would cost to send a crew out for an afternoon. Document the situation as it is so there's no funny business after you contact them.
  25. I'm humbled CD. I'm just here to try and help others, and while I'm certainly not the most knowledgeable among us I do tend to have downtime on the overnight, where I can look into the wealth of information that Gary has amassed here. If that helps you with your bug-out or zombie apocalypse vehicle all the better. I do what little I can, but I'm glad to be useful. That's the greatest praise I can imagine!
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