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And which one fits the harness side of the distributor connector? Like I said, you can use one of the DS connectors if you remove the plastic 'key', but other than Painful I don't know anyone who sells that one connector.

See if this works.... https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Heater-Blend-Door-Alternate-Design-tp112193.html Edit, here is the purchase link but the install is worth reading. https://bullnosecreations.square.site/

Link works. Thank you Bradley!

I'm not talking about the module connectors, I'm talking about the harness connector that attaches to the distributor. Does NAPA have that connector (maybe I missed it?) Do you have a part number for that particular connector?

How does changing the distributor module change the harness connector?

It's a scammer. They're pretty well known, and deserve to be retaliated against. Maybe Shaun is close enough to burn them down while they're sleeping?

Can you link it so I can put it in my saved searches?

Hopefully you've learned to NEVER trust our robot overlords. They are psychopaths and only 'apologize' because that is part of their script. Definitely not because they feel, or care about your feelings. Mark my words, this will get loose and pretty much become HAL

I'm not surprised it lies like a 3 year old caught covered in cookie crumbs.😆 At least it's not insolent. And this, when specifically asked to be accurate and truthful? 🧐 You see why I pointed out before that some of the truck articles you linked were written by chatbots.

The DS-II distributor connector (OR/PL/BK) is problematic, and the only harness ignition connector not readily available. I've said before that you can use another 4 pin connector if you are willing to remove the 'key' from the plastic shell. Painless wiring has a dura-spark 'kit' that is stupid expensive for what it is. Motorcraft pigtails can also be expensive but if you just get the numbers from the catalog here on site and search those on eBay they do turn up at reasonable cost. Like Dane said, a lot of these can be had in the NAPA Echlin line or even SMP. Pico used to offer a bunch too, like headlamp switch sockets or the regulator and static connectors for 3G upgrade.

Note that when MS lobotomized it they gave it three 'personas' Can you request the creative, conversational or accurate one?

https://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2024/01/michael-cohen-gave-his-lawyer-fake-citations-invented-by-google-bard-ai-tool/

Radiator changed in '85.

The response I got was: My response was "Man, you lost me! None of those things are said on the tab that is open on the page on the left. Nor is it said in any of the links you provided. So where did you find it?" To that he said: :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

Look at your vacuum diagram. There's nothing attached at the back, where the EGR is.

Right. But that is the engineering number for the sticker itself. We are trying to figure out the calibration number, that should be on the valve cover sticker of your engine. Like Bill said above something like 2-5xx-Rxx

So the 'kit' is a tee and a cap and an updated decal for when 054DR00 is changed to 054DR11?

You can see who's near you (members map in the drop-down at the top left of the page) Sounds like a fun project, starting with a solid truck!

[...] has many converting them to a voltmeter that actually shows you something worthwhile. Jim, I remember you mentioned me this guy who converts ammeter to voltmeter, preserving the classic look. Yup Fortunately, for me, by 1987 Ford had figured out how worthless their ammeter was and they started using a voltmeter.

I did a Google lens search for similar stickers and I don't see (on a clear one) where the calibration number is. I know that my truck had it in bold on the left valve cover, but my '87 tuning+vacuum sticker is a little different than that one.

I failed to address this. Gary is talking about the ammeter that is found in the lower right of every 1986 F-series pickup. D= discharge C= charging. These instruments never really worked well, and the common fix for the dangerous 2Gen alternator has many converting them to a voltmeter that actually shows you something worthwhile.

Isn't the sticker p/n unique to a particular emissions calibration? Wouldn't it have to be, if the calibration number is part of the sticker? I don't have the ability to search these things on my phone, but in my small mind e2ae9c485-aeg should cross to a particular calibration

The bearing shells are very thin at this point. The biggest undersize bearings I can find are .060, and the one source I saw for them say they are backordered til March. I'll have to do some more looking around if that's the way I go, or maybe the crank can clean up at something smaller than .060. I do need to take a closer look at the rod big end. If the crank got chewed on that badly, no reason to think the same thing has not happened to the rod. I looked back through your build thread and see where you say the crank was just under dimension on all journals. Also that you didn't check or recondition the rods. Id definitely be looking at/for twist or ovalation in that #3 rod. Could explain how that one bearing lost pressure and failed once the bearings bedded in.

Well, first see that it's charging properly (usually 14.3V ) while running. Look closely at the output plug on the alternator (rectangular plug, two large blk/or wires and one wh/bk) The common failure is that this plug melts and then the wiring harness catches fire when the melted plug allows the output wires to ground against the case. We call it the 'fire starter'...

Scat offers pre balanced rotating assembly's 0.040 is huge! (Like plug gap huge!) I can't imagine you even have bearing shells left if it's that far gone. Bring it to a crank shop and bring the rod and bearing too. Maybe the rod is out of round or tweaked? I need to go back and study your build thread to make more sense of this....