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Started snowing around midnight. Things have been slow (which is both a blessing and a curse) If a snow emergency is declared a lot of people parked on the street are going to wake up to their car gone.

That went way too easy. It's a '90's truck with at least a decade less corrosion and abuse. Around here you're lucky if there's even a hex left to get a wrench on. But I recently did my leaking drivers side manifold and wouldn't even have attempted it without an acetylene torch to get the bolts /studs cherry red. (and I have stainless bolts with almost no corrosion from when I installed a new engine in 2008) Hopefully your bolts and studs are in better shape and are already all oily already from the leaking valve covers.

Your shift stick is probably rusted up to where it can't move sideways enough to get into the neutral gate. I'm going to suggest PB Blaster or the corrosion buster of your choice and just working it back & forth until it starts to free up, then red 'n tacky grease or something that won't wash off R&R to clean it on the bench can take a bunch of time and you have to be careful to reassemble it correctly. Bob has some good points, but if you can't get under to lube up the linkage on the side of the gearbox I don't expect you can pull the driveshaft. If you have access to a lift put it in gear while up in the air so you can get a better look at what's bent or binding Please report back with what you find

I'm beginning to wonder if it might be in the transfer case. Have you tried both high and low? Is the front output slip or fixed yoke?

Okay. We can eliminate bad mesh and the pinion getting sucked into the carrier as causes for your jerky front axle. And you say it doesn't change going straight ahead or turning?

How is the pinion slop and backlash in the front axle? Sometimes the lube in the front diff never gets changed and the gears and bearings eat themselves.

Most of this era TC levers use a block of rubber to push the stick against the detents. You might find the rubber has hardened with age. Edit: is the pivot pin rusted solid or packed with mud?

We're expecting snow coming in overnight and all day tomorrow, with temps dropping into the teens this week. It's going to be busy, I can tell. 🙄 It will take a bit for you to get that 460 block up to temp. Not as bad as the winter I had to be driving in -19°. (Jeff may be chuckling in Canuk) I don't think the thermostat ever opened because the heater core was shedding heat so fast.

Don't lock the axle on dry pavement? There should be a sticker on top of the driver's sun visor explaining this and why it isn't a full-time 4wd system.

I keep my control set on def+floor If I have it on vent I get cooked. LED's lifetime is an order of magnitude greater than incandescent, as long as they aren't overdriven hard. There's no filament being constantly jostled and heat cycled.

It's a Motorcraft 19x° thermostat* (I haven't changed it since I dropped the engine in 2008. I had a sender leak early in the life of this truck (92'ish) but not a problem since. I put everything new in '08 and I guess everything is failing at once. 🤣

Make a service note to pull vacuum on the heater core bypass before refilling the system. Yeah I wouldn't want to try 26 lb-ft with an aluminum intake. Those bolts are just too small. My heat is great in the truck (and I spend some time in there getting home on frosty mornings) 4-5 miles and the needle is at N where it always sits. Speaking of gauges, id noticed low oil pressure at hot idle. I changed the sender (why oh why does the replacement use a different wrench size?) and it's back to normal function.

He used it on your engine crossmember...... 😢 You cut your frame for header clearance I've done everything but alignments to my truck since I got it in '88. This past spring I hired a well recommended shop to change my clutch (not because it was bad, mind..) And paid for them to screw it up. 😡 It haunts me every day.

The reason I started with "vacuum leak" was because of the rotten vacuum cap laying on the intake when I first pulled the air cleaner. I replaced all the vacuum caps in the Advance parking lot, then started the truck and hosed down the spacer + both intake gaskets. I had my hopes up until I went to leave..

I have confirmed the choke is fully open once warmed up.

Yeah. It feels fat when driving and if I leave it idle too long before shutting it off it acts a little flooded on startup. But with the float height confirmed, the powervalve sealing as well as the check ball of the accelerator pump, the only thing I can think left to check is the float height of the secondary. This seems a stretch because the front bowl was spotless (I run a metal filter from a 2002 Altima just before the fuel log, where it bends 90° around the thermostat housing)

I'm not really sure what this means? Our days start out with a little frost (high 20's) but no colder than we have already seen this season. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street/parts/0-80508S The only real change is a quick change secondary spring cap and a slightly stiffer spring due to heavy truck with an RV cam. I've checked the flap closes, the fast idle cam comes into play and that when I get a squirt from the accelerator pump the choke is free to move, with only coil spring pressure holding it shut. The center hung float was set by measuring with a scale while the bowl is inverted. It has the unintuitive nut & lock screw float valves. I cannot blow through the seat in this position. There is no 'window' but if I remove the level plug I just get a little wetness, not any gas really flowing out. The little plastic baffle is properly in place under the gasket. After having hosed down all around the base flange & spacer with ether looking for leaks I sprayed some Teflon dry lube on the choke/fast idle linkage and the secondary lockout arm and rod. I did not have a propane torch in the Advance parking lot that night, nor the next morning when I got off and drove home. The accelerator pump gap is set to fifteen thou per almost every rebuild kit and tuning book I've ever read.(remember the days of setting points gap with a match book?) I did not check for volume of the pump shot and I did not disassemble or change the cam hole the screw is in. From how it's acting, if this carb had a PV in the secondary metering plate I'd say that was blown too. But it doesn't, and I didn't get a 'bang!' when this apparently happened. I was merging onto 95, noticed the sign of running out of fuel and switched tanks. The truck sputtered and coughed as it came back to life. Couple of miles later I get to the light at the bottom of the ramp and it loads up and dies. Have a hard time getting it started because it's flooded. Now it is acting 'fat' but I'm not sure why. Sluggish to accelerate, burbles and hangs as it returns to idle. Edit, im overlooking something, and I'm not sure where/what I should be looking for next. 🧐 I can get a propane torch if you think that will make it act any different than a can of starting fluid would.

I seriously doubt it. The truck was running great. And even when this happened it wasn't a big bang, just a little pop as the mechanical pump caught prime. But I'm FAR from having seen everything. I just do my best to eliminate possibilities before I dive into a rabbit hole. Maybe Bill has a solid answer.

Oh no. I know how many times that pump squirts every time I fill up.($168 on Monday,another $100 yesterday,,, ) And if it's still working I'm not going to change it, unless I have to pull the hole carb off and dissect it looking for this problem. A bench rebuild is not something I can or want to set an afternoon aside for right now. I work 3pm to 8am on weekends and either 3-11 or 3-7am the other 4 days of the week.

The rubber looked like it is cracked. I think it was just very weak from age. Though the accelerator pump works fine! If I remembered where I tossed it I'd be tempted to cut the cage open and inspect where it is leaking.

So, last week I replaced my Powervalve but as the weather turned colder it seems I need a choke adjustment. I completely cleaned the front of the body, took the metering block and float bowl in to the bench to thoroughly clean any residue (amazingly clean for 13 years in service!) I checked the float seat and height but seem to have a little roughness on trailing throttle and the revs don't drop as fast as I'd like. I have replaced all the rotten vacuum caps and sprayed the spacer and both intake gaskets with starting fluid, not finding any vacuum leaks (nor brake booster or climate control manifold) Any wisdom from the collective as to why it might be behaving differently now vs before? What have I missed or overlooked? I'm tagging Bill. Perhaps he has some insight or wisdom.

Yes, fortunately it isn't written into the bios or something... But do note up-thread somewhere the hard coded shortcut key that's shipping today. If Copilot is a petulant child that refuses to follow directions and lies constantly should it really have a place on my keyboard?

https://www.theverge.com/2024/1/12/24035637/microsoft-windows-11-copilot-ai-chatbot-automatically-open-boot-startup

Long ago Superwinch (with the blue plastic centers) were the closest to stock I could find. Now the choice is basically Warn or Mile Marker. Both have Regular and Premium lines.... When my SW passenger side kept locking on its own I went with Warn Premiums. The 7/8 turn is a bit of a hassle but I haven't had a problem Edit to ask: Gary have you ever used Billet 4x4 in Tulsa?

The lettering on the hub part appears to me to be Ford OEM. Others may have an opinion... Unfortunately I don't believe Ford ever sold the lock dials (handles?) separately. Gary made a post about this not long ago.