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I know I asked Big Brother/Jeff in that discussion for his NAPA part number for the harness side of the DSII distributor connector. Hopefully Gary will turn up the engine side of C-610. If you have 610 it should be as easy as bringing 37 (Y) to the fender relay or megafuse and bringing the exciter wire to the 3G's regulator plug.

I don't think it was EPA. You can ask Bill, but I think it's more about the fact that the chemicals are HIGHLY mutagenic and it burns like hell. I'm thinking there was a good dose of dichloromethane and 1.1.1 trichloroethylene to cut through any oils as well as acids that chew through pitting and corrosion. You had to be careful with leaving things too long because it would dissolve the zinc right out of brass and zamak.

I just got a six liter tank from Horrid Fate. Haven't even opened the box. I don't do too much mechanic work any more but I sure miss my old dip pail of Hydroseal II. That stuff was pure evil but it would have a carb clean in 20 minutes.

Thank you Gary! Hopefully old age and treachery will win out, because I don't have youth or luck on my side!

It's just drizzle now, (it's also up to 36°! 😏). but there's not much of anything I can do without parts. Id like to get the universal installed before I go out to lay in the slush and mud. The thought of changing out the yoke, then going inside to change the U-joint while wet and muddy, and then going back out to lay in that crap for another round is even less appealing I'm at the mercy of FedUp right now.

Those numbers with an asterisk below the Ford p\n are the Motorcraft #

Having a spare ammeter sitting with RCCI (like Cory said he did) would make it so members could do this all at once, rather than shipping the instrument out and waiting for it's return.

Look at pgs 20-23 of the 2016 catalog for 4 cavity connectors. The later 2020 catalog does not include many of the older ones

Hi CDLong, Do you remember from whom you got the indicator cable? Try Blue Truck Parts eBay store. He's a member here on the forum and has good feedback. Yesterday:

So on closer inspection there is more like 1/16 play. Still a lot of backlash but not ready to fall out. FedUp sez my pinion & U-joint are here in CT and 'out for delivery ' But, it's warmed up to 33° and we are experiencing a "wintery mix" on top of the few inches of crusted snow we have on the ground. 🥶😒 I don't know if I'm going to get much accomplished when I get off this morning. I also don't know when those parts might show up.

It's always a concern. Especially over the Internet when there is no inflection or nuance. As someone who only thinks in facts and has no filter I can easily offend people without even trying (the joys of being an aspie:nabble_smiley_teeth:) The vacuum motor for the flap and thermal switch (CWM) are much easier to find by their Motorcraft numbers than by the Ford P/N. Let's see if we can get your proper parts diagram and listing from the MPC. CJ.

Perhaps it was you that I tried to help by pointing out C-610 on the EVTM diagram. It would be great if I could locate the right connector (for 610) in the Motorcraft pigtail catalog. Then it would just be a matter of figuring out the correct lengths to reach the fender relay stud for Y 37 and the 3G for the LG/R exciter* wire. (Damned autocorrect) Unfortunately my truck never came with a plug like that, because it never came with an ammeter. Gary???? 😉

I think the theory is that rubber hoses and plastic tanks isolate the radiator and heater core from the truck as a whole. People make too much of this IMHO There's not much potential there and it could be eliminated by a single strand of wire as fine as a hair. (see my response to Bradley's "idea" of annular boosters, or Gary fretting about where to monitor voltage)

Hasn't Deren bought a bunch of switch bezels from the Blue Truck guy there in the PNW? Isn't he a member here answering questions about some of his offerings? Maybe you should tag him about the possibility of creating a plug n play 610 to 3G harness?

R&D is never free in the real world. 💡 If someone doesn't have a business plan and hobbles themselves with inadequate equipment it doesn't mean a product can't be profitable. There's a reason Shapeways charges what they do. It's better process, better equipment, better material, all the overhead of a shop and staff to fettle them and package for shipment.

$2'500 car, $1,000 module (if I can get one) and I need to completely disassemble the interior to remove the cluster. That involves numerous airbags, the steering column, the dash that melted into paste years ago (polymer degradation, a known issue) It's not a problem I want to get into for free. In fact, you couldn't pay me enough at this point. I'm glad it's nothing I had done.

Do you forget about the dash patch that Ron is profiting from???

Boeing lost their mind when they sold out to 'management' and moved to Chicago 👎

Not any criticism intended. To think how many air cleaners were tossed in the trash for a 'performance' tin lid with 'improved airflow' back then.

Think about or admire (idea of) all you like. Practice is actually implementing it. The 4180 that came on these trucks (and my '85 GT) was a really good carb, for 625 CFM. The Federally mandated anti-tamper features weren't hard to get around. There used to be a website (Flemworld) that had a whole tutorial on how to tune the 4180 for performance. Site is long gone but you might find it on the Wayback Machine.

I like the practice of high signal and good atomization. 😁

My first response would have been 'box store version's but you head that off. All these iconic brands have been eaten alive by capital management groups or special investment partnerships. Some (like Bill) gripe and grumble about "ChiCom Crap" where I respond that Apple makes all their top end products there, they have a successful space program, Nuclear power, etc.. Products are build to a cost. There's not a problem with QC, it's the formula of acceptable failures vs cost of replacing faulty widgets. If they still make $$$ even at 20% garbage to market they will go with 20% They will not warranty your labor, sheetrock or paint.

Glad it's worked out with the stud! Interesting about the bends. There's always a good reason to change expensive tooling on a production line.

I think it starts here....

I'm guilty of just running an overlay rather than stripping an entire harness to find a fault (short or open) [solid State Module] is a map with "Thar b Dragon's ere" smack in the middle of your route. My little brother has problems with his Altima not starting with the pushbutton. The PMGR has a cascade of two relays before the solenoid on the starter. There's also a circuit breaker at the battery+, a IPDM, a shift lever position sensor, PCM, BCM and another security module built in the cluster.... all between the button and the starter. I think the BCM is bad (behind the cluster) because the dash will randomly fail to go to sleep, like the door is open, but the 500ma draw goes unnoticed and kills the battery after sitting. And if the battery is disconnected for any length of time the entire car resets and the problem goes away. He doesn't want to pay, so my only advice is to get a battery disconnect like a race car.