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CJ I'm trying to put this together. I may edit/add numbers 9601.... Standard air filter: FA-574-R https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/motorcraft,FA574R,air+filter,6192 Extra: FA-732. = Purolator A40124 Severe Duty/ Off Road: FA-1051 inner, FA-1052 outer Vacuum motor, snorkel: 9d612 aka CX-120. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165712399328 Check valve: d7fz-9e607-b. aka CX-122 https://pittauto.com/item/FOR%20D7FZ9E607B Check/delay: 9e897a coded red/white, AKA D0AZ-9E897-B 2-port CX-1368: thermal vacuum switch aka D3TZ-9D473-B. https://www.ebay.com/p/1339945359?iid=275506278121 Vacuum control, side of air cleaner: d5az9a995a. https://www.ebay.com/p/1822655208 I can't find the checks in partsvoice or rear counter. I will try other methods later.....

Yeah, I searched here and the net before I posted but didn't find anything specific to my issue. Thanks for Gary's testing. Once it stops raining, I can follow Gary's lead. When the controls are placed in mix or floor, I have no air flow thru the defroster vents. Well, the "only have defrost" is a well known and documented issue. Also if you don't have vacuum, the fresh air door by the passenger hood hinge won't close. Look at the 3 port manifold on the center firewall/cowl just below the hood gasket. Follow this into the cab. Follow the tube from the vacuum motor on the plenum by the hinge. If you find broken hard plastic lines splice them with a piece of rubber vacuum tube or tygon fuel line intended for small (weedwacker/blower) engines. This is easily found in any big box outdoor equipment aisle with the replacement sparkplugs and pull cords. If you have a 'juice can' vacuum reservoir on the passenger inner fender, take it off and see if condensation has rusted a hole in the bottom. The diverter door in the ductwork is known to come off/break it's hinge. A member here (Chuske) makes a kit to fix this. There's a thread and a link in the marketplace to that issue. These are the most obvious things I can think of, off the top of my head.

We have another user (Will/dirtymac) who reported the same, and said they used their original clip to attach the new cable. This is great feedback, because it gives the vendor room to improve the product.

We have a number of current threads going on this, and Gary is documenting his testing and improvements. If you have a vacuum leak the climate controls will default to defrost. A noisy fan usually means the bearings are worn or the grease has packed up. Some people have drilled a hole in the bushing to add oil but the usual solution is to replace it for around $30 (that's what I did)

I went and added them as a vendor with a poll. 😉 https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Blue-Truck-Parts-thisoldtruck-tp145361.html

Please rate our vendor and provide feedback on their products and customer service.

I tried, Sorry, but you can't create new topics here. Note that you may still be able to reply to posts. You may request permission to post here or contact Gary Lewis if you have questions. There isn't a poll there already? Give me a minute. I'm looking up ewissions parts.

Dash is back in and all is well. Engine was warming up. The 'new to you' gauge looks good! If you might consider going to our marketplace section/vendor reviews/ then rating and dropping a comment about your experience with thisoldpart*/Blue Truck Parts? It helps other members to know about parts quality, shipping speed/good packaging, how well that vendor communicated with you about where you order was, etc... Thanks!

The blend door works, but are there any other foam joints where air could be leaking out? You've got to remember these trucks were designed in the 1970's and used blow or roto moulded parts with more thought about how to make them fit and be produced on tools available 45 years ago. Smooth flow and velocity were more of an afterthought. There's no doubt that NVH have come a LONG way since then.

I'm still wondering about your voltage drop. It's almost like there's a diode in the circuit...(at least those readings are about what you should see, if there was) Did you ever locate the mystery ground that doesn't appear in the EVTM? I don't have a Bullnose to look at.

You don't need hydraulic crimpers for wires this size. Heck you don't really need them to do big 3 & 4/0 cables if you have a bench mounted manual crimping tool. I've got a couple of cheap Iwiss ratcheting hand crimpers. They are fine for down to 8Ga. lugs and terminals

Right CJ. EGR should only be operating with the engine fully warmed up, and only under high vacuum (cruise) conditions. You want it to go away under WOT. It's been busy so far. Hope I get some time closer to daybreak

Ford trucks of this era had a Y shaped starter cable with the trigger wire built into it. That would pretty much be the grail. I think Rick, or someone, has this setup. It's been a while, but I remember the photos.

It's 28 years old.... It definitely is a "classic" truck

Welcome Woodroe! Happy you're here! We have quite a few Flareside owners (the 'FOG')

I've got you! Agree 100% with your fuel system breakdown. Props to your dad from M/T. I know what, but perhaps not the batch sizes he deals with. Someone like him would know in a second if I said PEPCON. 🤯 I have a kid who was an umbilical engineer for STS

I used "123" because some people don't seem to "get" XXX and obviously a NEW connector isn't going to be listed in the EVTM tables.

Bradley, Believe me, I have walked this path and know the pitfalls. Your '86 had the most 'updated' version of HFH. the 6-port Pollak valve KIT should be around $80 delivered from eBay.

This is why I said to go to the EVTM and compare/contrast the setup for ammeter v idiot lights. Let me Since my best laid plans are SNAFU

I was addressing Bradley, our new counter jockey.... You have your work cut out for you! If you're not using the Dorman nylon line repair kits I don't see a reason to fight the blue line forcing it onto barbs and other terminations. The HFH systems don't run anything like the pressures in Fi systems. I didn't realize this was a journey TO a destination, rather than an outing from CO. I'm not a medium duty truck guru, but I actually am a 'rocket scientist'. 😂

I would put the Megafuse to the relay terminal and run an entirely independent Y-37 Or perhaps your schematic is not really proportional and the HMEG is close to the relay and you have an eyelet on 37 at the fused side, and an eyelet jumper from the same, to the relay? Id like to see whatever termination noted if there isn't (C-123) To be clear, you don't show a splice (S-123) but you really don't give any information on that 3-way connection

I work all night. I try to help people if I'm slow and not out on a call. Believe me looking up parts and diagrams is a respite from tedious hours of sitting in a tow truck. Do you know if you have the standard or heavy duty air filter housing? I'm trying to get my truck back together today as it's the only dry weather I've seen all week and it's supposed to start raining @ 1am through to Monday, so I might not get right back to you, but I am thinking on it.....

There are a number of variations of the hot fuel handling system and they take different valves. (all these things were made by Pollak, before SMP crushed them) Airtex, Wells, Carter, Delco, the big 3 parts store brands..... Of the six port valves one uses a pulse to shift and stay, another has a hold in solenoid (rear tank is default) some switch the senders, others don't. There are variations across years, and that's JUST the 6-port Then you have the non-return 3-port valves.....

My truck kept going through heater cores (10 in all!) and I got to stay close to my friend Rick Piper who inherited Portchester Auto Radiator from his father. Turns out I had a tiny crack between an exhaust port and the spark plug. It would only open up if I was romping on it and had to back off suddenly. I got to where I could change it and have the coolant system buttoned up in 15 minutes. This was back in the day, when Modine still made brass heater cores and Rick would pressure test every one before it left his shop.

Years ago, that plastic was a whole lot more pliable than it is today. In all the parts catalogs I've been through I've never seen a reference to speed control, specifically. A year ago November when the throttle cable my truck broke I did not see any distinction (granted, I have a 460 with a 23+ inch throttle cable) Ifitaintbroke/Bradley works at an auto parts store, I believe. Perhaps you should tag him to this thread and see if he has any additional info? ETA: A little more information here. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Part-Number-Help-tp140562.html