ArdWrknTrk

You remember my accelerator pump saga when I first got that one, and was refurbing my new valve covers.

I had to highlight all those different C-610 connector locations for another member not long ago (maybe ifitaintbroke/Bradley?) While it certainly would be nice if you went into production of plug n' play harnesses Gary 😉 maybe it could make a good venture for the Blue Truck guy?? Sorry, I forget his name too. (blame it on my face blind autism)

I've still got a bunch of tools and parts up in the barn, but access is difficult in winter with a 2wd dually (U-haul van or whatever) Pretty sure I was last there to get a 600 Holley (08457-S) for George of Nick & George, down near the Big Easy. IMHO the AVS2 is a better carb than the AFB.

Remember that 2V & 4V are rated at different depressions, so there's no apples to apples there. If Scotty thinks you can get away with a 600 I have that 650 AVS somewhere back in Wilton. If I ever get over there I'll make sure to grab it off the shelf.

Progress is GOOD!!!

I don't know that a 500 CFM carb is the best choice for a heavily built 460 stroker. The biggest I ever seen a 4100 on from the factory was a 390 You can get a 750 AVS2 for the same money. 💡 Edit: I see their m08750vs for the same $.

They're old Holley/Autolite designs made by Holley (or their factory) All this crap is owned by the same big 'capital investment group ' Toploader carbs work fine, but I don't have gasket problems with Holley's. If you want something else, try an AVS. They're easy enough to get parts for. I ran a 650 for a while.

It's easier to do than talk about. 👍 Gary always wants to OVER engineer everything. I'm of the mind that if it works, and is not any danger down the line, it's fine. (remember, there's nothing more permanent than a temporary solution that works.) I grew up autistic, with an electronic engineer for a father. I could bin resistors by colour code at 5. I look at a schematic like a map and become an electron heading heading down a highway, turning left onto a windy rural road, hitting stop signs and one way junctions along the way to my destination.

We've already heard in this thread that that harness is completely toast. If it's garbage, get rid of it. Less chance of hidden corroded wires or some insulation flaking off and starting a fire

Yeah I was editing while you were posting

Well, I have to disagree. But it's your baby. Draw what you want.

I might eliminate "130A".. ETA: I would simply put "appropriate Megafuse" as well. Most people don't need the big alternator in these trucks. They got by for the entire production life with 40 or 60A There are plenty of people who would just like a nice 95A, 135mm case 3G just for simpler wiring and low RPM delivery. The small case 95 fits better on these trucks.

Certainly making a U of wire and jumping 904 lg/r to 655 r/o on the cab side of C610 would make the most sense to anyone. Cut 654 y/lg near the cluster connector C208A and take it to ground when you install the voltmeter (nee ammeter) If there isn't a cluster ground there is one for the intermittent wiper switch or G701 behind the radio..

A decent voltmeter cost more than Rocket man's calibrated stock uni until the advent of cheap electronics from 'over there's While it is a bit of a fuss to open the cluster and swap the gauge, you've got to admit it does look the part and you know it is properly tested. I (personally) can't stand digital instruments. Your brain doesn't need to process where a needle is pointing. You don't even need to be able to read the numbers.

There's good reason manufacturers went to the trouble and expense of engineering and equipping vehicles with these systems. It's the only way they could get a carbureted engine to deliver consistent mixtures. And even if you don't have or want to meet federal emissions standards, having a stable A:F is key to smooth operation.

Amen, brother! Now if I could just find a gentleman... If She could just find a gentleman, instead of that Gary fellow?!? You two are a match made in heaven . That's a fortunate thing. How wonderful to have each other.

Looks good! 👍 Definitely seems the KISS solution

Others may have more input beyond premium high Mu pads and slotted/drilled rotors. I really know more about the heavier (over 8,600# gvw) trucks than I do about 100/150/Bronco's.

The other day when I said "maybe 1/8 backlash" the bolt were as tight as I set them. (Not so tight as to distort the caps) I want to say about 10-12 lbft, but just 'by calibrated elbow ' The flange lock nuts are serrated and distorted. It was probably all the vibration on trailing throttle.

That's the way my truck came. For some reason Ford loved to use those darn oddball U-joints. 🤷‍♂️

I went to the stealership and picked up a crush collar and nut. Stopped at AutoZone for U-bolts and a seal plus fresh fluids and a tube of the green gear oil resistant RTV. Placed an order with Drivetrain America for a new yoke and bastard (1350x1310) Spicer greaseable universal. Already have shipping confirmation and a tracking #. Now I need to find a driveshaft shop who can actually tell me if it's bent from flailing around and check for balance.

Subscribed.

I'm looking to buy a deep dish type 3 wheel cover to fit my 10.25" rear. *** I found one on eBay for $86 delivered Hopefully it really is NOS and as good as the photo.

Looks good! Thank you for adding the Megafuse.

Done!