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You need to insert an image or something. Are the locks red plastic? Do they say Ford across the bar?

I'm fortunate to have two, with one of them only having 70,000 miles. Even down here, most of them are pretty beat up by now since the last of the small Rangers rolled off the assembly line 13 years ago. Good condition versions with less than 100k are going for $12k and above still. That's one of my biggest reasons for not going ZF5 either. They're also prone to cracking just like the T19 bellhousings, and some people refer to them as glass transmissions. You would be surprised how many differences there are in 1980-1987 manual transmission AND transfer case shifters. I attempted to map them out once, but still ended up finding even more versions I didn't know about. Below are the most common, but there's different shift levers for all of the 4-speed overdrive transmissions, bolt-on transfer case levers, different curves, etc. Here's two different transfer case lever bends. Left one is 1980- early 1982 due to threaded shift knob, but this curve went through 1986. Right one is late 1982 - 1986 with a splined knob, but this curve was also used on 1980 - early 1982 with threads. 1980-1982 NP435 Transmission Shift Lever on top (1980-early 1982 have threaded shift knobs, 82-86 have splined shift knobs) 1983-1987 T-18/T-19 Transmission Shift Lever on bottom (This one is for a T19) Thank you for the comparison photos Shaun! I've never really thought much about the bends, as long as the stick was comfortable to reach.

Whose Y-pipe are you using? Or is it stock and you got one of those weird 350 4x4 cross members? My 250 fits the stock head pipes fine, but I'm using the old T-19 cross member , moved back.

I understand API & NLGI specs, but that still doesn't address the question (that he clarified) I'm out...

'Alvin in AZ' has done a couple of teardowns over in FTE. If you're willing to beat it up you don't really need special tools. If you need to shim a new gear stack you definitely don't want to go there.... I remember the BSA manual I used to have. It said "in order to split the cases, drop smartly".

That's funny! As for change, I tend to cause it, so am not averse. But in this case I think the change I proposed isn't a good one. I see the 'ring' favicon is back this morning. No more headscratching about which tabs the forum is open on.

So "dextron 2" is a brand or manufacturer, rather than a spec?? This is an interesting fact that I never knew Appreciate the insight and clarification.

Is the whole collar loose or just a worn out detent?

Only "high stress, unknown outcome" moments I've had are with aggressive flat tappet hydraulic cams when first firing an expensive build. You do everything (checking piston to valve clearance, break-in springs, assembly lube, break -n oil, priming the oiling system just before starting, making as sure as you can that the timing is spot on, ect...) Because without a dyno that engine is going right to 2,500 and staying there for a solid 20 minutes. You do NOT want to hear a Screech or wack, wack, wack. It's a little nerve wracking. I've heard from "experienced mechanics" about how I've done things "would never work" "will fail before the next oil change" whatever.... Not to say a haven't spent my life at the school of hard knocks, but I don't forget lessons learned the hard way.

Rangers are really useful vehicles, at a size that's not as awkward as my 250 is in some situations. It's a shame there are almost none left on the roads up here.

Interesting. I definitely can't just throw this trans into reverse. I have to shake it and then put it into reverse, just like my Ranger. Does the ZF have a lockout? That's exactly why I jumped on the spare T19 when it was cheap and down the street. May not be able to find one locally when I need it. I just wish it came with a bellhousing because we all know what happens to those, and often. You beat me to the searching. Thanks! . I hope it helps. I checked yesterday, before I opened my mouth and ended up wrong. I figured one short and another long would get you on the right track. I never thought about having to wiggle my T-19 into reverse. If I did it had become so inate I literally forgot about it. The Zf-5 pulls straight back into reverse. Thankfully mine has not worn so bad that it wants to pop out (as I hear so many do)

Do you have a favorite flavor of fill for your AOD's Mat?

Your title says "Best oil for AOD" Mat is correct. Oil is not good for your AOD. I use ATF in my gearbox but don't have friction bands so it's not really comparable. I usually go with Valvoline (brand) synthetic.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/performance/exhaust/exhaust-manifold-header-bolts---studs/1ae38bae6636/dorman-autograde-3-8-16-3-8-24-inch-thread-double-end-stud/dag0/675070 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/dorman-autograde-3-8-16-3-8-24-inch-thread-double-end-stud/dag0/675523 There's more..

Welcome! Glad to see someone else from the Northeast, though I'm way down in CT.

I appreciate the insight and I'm glad I'm not the only one contemplating this. It's hard to tell, but it didn't look like there was even a spot for the detent pin in my spare T19, which is why I assumed it never came with it. 1987 was a weird one-year wonder for shift levers so it doesn't surprise me. Luckily for me, my daily driver Ranger has the reverse lockout feature, so it's something I'm used to so won't be bad in my F350 if I'm running the 1987 T19. I've owned my '87 since '88 and never noticed a reverse lockout in the T-19? That gearbox snapped the input winter of 2011. The Zf overdrive really makes a difference with 4.10' s on the highway.

Congratulations!

Because you can get a UNC-UNF stud from any auto parts store through Dorman for $2.49? Because 5/16 is the tap drill size for 3/8-16 instead of some odd letter size? Because 99% of the people in this ONE country will have a UNC 3/8-16 tap, but not some oddball size 3/8-24? Would you like more?

Don, This is DS-II This And this, And this..... Are EEC

Pretty much the only reason people would resort to HEI is to eliminate the troublesome computer, all it's sensors and the distributor, & carb it controls There is a coolant temperature sender for the gauge (one white/red wire) And a engine coolant sensor (two wires) for the computer... The EVTM is your friend and you can find it under documentation/electrical/evtm/1985

3/8-24 is real oddball for allthread. Probably better off finding a coarse/fine stud, in which case 5/16 drill is about a 72% thread (for 3/8-16)💡

Welcome Count from the Pacific Northwet. If the floors in front are wet the first place to check are the rubber cowl vents up behind each front wheel. When these get plugged with leaves and pine needles it turns to mud, and rusts out the vents and cover plate in each kick panel. Shaun (salans7) mentioned not long ago that Sky had in production a 2-4 wd kit for the leaf spring trucks.

I like PTFE dry lube. Yes, it leaves a chalky white mess. But it slides smooth and doesn't attract dust, lint and grit becoming grinding paste.

What part of PA are you in? *(I'm not one to ask for favors but I have a few connections around Philly.)

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