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Okay, so there's no easy gain there. One of our members (Chad) has created a big brakes upgrade, but it's not cheap and I think you have to change to minimum 17" rims to clear the calipers.

I think we need another player in the vendors reviews. They're obviously doing it right and care that their customers get the right part(s) the first time!

Welcome! We really like these family projects and people who teach their kids to drive an analog vehicle.

1-wire alternators have to be self exciting, because there is no key on power going to the field. This means they can't energize the windings until the unit is spinning and that there is a threshold rpm to produce any output, and that output is somewhat proportional to rpm. Now, once spun up they can be wound to put out a good amount of power. But remember that regardless of stated Max power they will only provide what's needed to keep the trucks electrical system at the set point (usually 14.3-14.5V) A 1, 2 or 3G alternator has a sense wire (y/w) A stator wire (w/b)... also used for choke, or in the case of a 351H.O. to trip a choke relay An exciter wire (lg/r) that provides key on power to kickstart the alternator output.... rather than relying on it to bootstrap itself. An output wire or* cable, usually bk/or

I need to find a piece of cardboard so I can go back out there, cut those bolts loose, and closer inspect the corner of the gas tank. I need to refill the 1356 because I drove 40 miles with it spewing ATF. I would make an attempt at cleaning it all off but there's not a thawed hose in 200 miles.

Okay, I'm not seeing the usual brackets around the 4209 assembly. Pics of the carnage. I'm glad I just changed my gas tank....

I guess that's the difference between needing a hand up to stand on the gas tank and step in, or using my handle to balance on a little Nerf bar

I'm going to have to get back to this. I'm trying to keep up with the mail and get parts + a shop lined up right now.

Whas the difference between an E5 deflector and D5 slinger?

So 'group 4209'is the bag with nut and crush collar in it?

10 ga. terminals are the wider ones you don't like (but they're rated for 40A) TIE offers the same exact relay with smaller spades, which is probably what you're finding on Amazon... or whatever.

Does your F-100 have power brakes? What lug pattern do you have?

:nabble_smiley_good: Gary was going to put a grab handle from a 600 & up series truck on the B pillar of Big Blue for Janey IIRC. I actually had one at the shop that had been wrecked but I don't think he wanted it.

I'm not sure I understand. Bing doesn't give me the options I want in searches. But Copilot did exactly what I asked it to do and found sellers of the relay and ranked them in price order. Chrome won't do that nor will Bing by itself. So, what did I miss? I mised that you were talking of the browser and not Bing chat. This is what happens when marketing decides that different products/services need the same name... MS is completely stupid if they implement a browser that won't deliver exact terms.

Congratulations!!! But remind us of the combination? This has the AOD and 4.10's? What tires? What cam? What R's are you running at, say, 65? Well, I finally did it this morning, and destroyed the pinion yoke on my truck. It was 11° when I got off at 8. The shock was enough to knock my right side hubcap off. While I was able to recover my driveshaft I did not see the deep dish type 3 wheel cover anywhere. Not long ago I was bemoaning to closing of Excelsior Machine Works, the last and best driveline shop in the area. They had been in business for over 125 years.. 😢 So for now I have a front wheel drive pickup with a stub of 1 1/2" sch 40 keeping the fluid in my transfer case. Gary, if you could, can you get me the p/n's for a 10.25 yoke and the pinion nut+crush sleeve kit? I think I can come up with the correct seal, U-joint and u-bolts. Thanks!

That's what happens when you deal with an obstinate chatbot that refuses to do what you tell it to.

#1 rule of any kind of electronics. Don't let the smoke out! This valuable Lucas product is very rare today, but back in the days of Leland, Healey, Triumph/BSA/Norton it was a shop essential.

https://arstechnica.com/ai/2024/01/report-microsofts-ai-infusion-hasnt-helped-bing-take-share-from-google/

The touch of chrome below the doors really does look good!

Instead I'll run something I can replace easily or get parts for when it fails. And that's a 1G or 3G alternator. As for the ammeter, you could disconnect it. But my worry is more with the shunt than the meter. The shunt is probably sized to handle a max of 60 or 70 amps, which is all the alternators of the day would put out. But if you put an alternator on that has a lot more capacity you could burn the shunt up, depending on how you wire it. If you leave the wiring stock then you'll be trying to charge the battery through the shunt. And if your battery should get low, when you start the truck the alternator will kick in hard and give you all it has, which could burn up the shunt. Instead you need to wire the output of the alternator as shown below. Don't use the factory BK/O wire that goes up to S202 as that feeds through the shunt to the battery. Instead wire the alternator's output to the battery's positive side on the starter relay. That way the alternator's output doesn't go through the shunt and you won't burn it up. And, having done that you won't hurt the ammeter either since the only current it'll be measuring is that going into the cab, which isn't enough to hurt anything - if you haven't installed a killer sound system. Gary you need a Megafuse or fuselink in the blue 'new charge cable' shown. The ammeter is worthless. If converted to a RCCI voltmeter then state as such and feed from the LG/R key on power and ground the other side of the new/converted instrument.

Unplug connector 610. Bring wire 37 (Y) from S101 to the battery + stud of the fender mounted starter relay. Bring the fused output of your 1-wire alt to the battery + stud of the fender mounted starter relay. Toss everything shown below. The problem with 1 wire alternators is that they are self-exciting, so no matter how high their ultimate output is they provide useless output at idle and low rpms.

Observations: The truck shifts well through every gear. The truck drives fine in reverse!??? (I mean it doesn't even have the rattley gear noise) Dragging the brakes doesn't change the noise on trailing throttle Neutral or in any gear doesn't seem to change it either. I'm OMW to work. The UD will get me through the night.

Yeah I know But I don't have time or a dry place to pull the yoke off. I should get under there and check the hypoid oil for glitter. I also don't have ready access to my 1/2 & 3/4" stuff right now. Maybe I'll get away with it for a couple of days if I ride the brake whenever I'm off the gas. I sure as hell am not putting it in a shop after my flywheel experience in late March. I'm almost with ifitaintbroke but I think id know a abuser if I met them. There's just too many complete incompetents working in shops. They may know how to work a scan tool and swap modules, but they sure don't know or care to get greasy.

If you remember I rebuilt my transfer case a couple of years ago, on my little adventure to Vermont. The transmission transfer case and rear diff are all cool to the touch. I backed off the gas and coasted through an intersection, heard a loud bang and that hollow ponk! from the drive shaft. There's maybe an eighth of a rotation at the rear yoke. The fact that it happens on trailing throttle makes me think that the pinion is loose, but I don't see that. I had the carrier, ring and pinion replaced about 15 years ago. By my, at the, time drag racing Jehovah's witness neighbor. Paul Campbell was a good dude...

Nope. Not good weather for a motorcycle either....