ArdWrknTrk

Radius arms put the pivot point far behind the wheel centerline If you bring the hubs down you have to increase trail, unless you use an equal drop radius bracket.

The cesspit of social media? I imagine those with background and a job in technology (wether it is installation/maintenance, network or data administration) are too busy or burnt out to volunteer for more

Mapping isn't problem solving, and neither Google or Apple are prescient. I'm kind of surprised that the results were so granular WRT to exactly where cars were stopped and diverted. Though you are the product, and Its only really people with the app open that are informing the algorithm. Learning models are another thing entirely. They train on data or their own experience and will know or anticipate something like heavy traffic on a certain route at 5:00(for example) Another thing these driving apps do is try to push drivers to alternative routes to lessen major congestion on what would be the 'main' route. Now that LLM's easily pass the Turing test were going to have to come up with another definition of sentience or accept that silicon is a living, if not breathing, "being" I can't imagine the advances you've seen nor how you can't be gobsmacked with this new normal.

I think that knife cuts both ways Dane. I'm often not surprised at reviews from shills that obviously have never used the product. 🙄 I never did figure out how Gary resolved his issues with Champion and have heard more than once on this forum about fitment problems. I'm glad your experience has been positive! Might check the vendor reviews here in the marketplace section. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Champion-Cooling-Systems-tp118471.html And now I know! Champion (directly) went the extra mile for Gary and made it right. So I'd guess if that unit is again available it works well with a breathed on 460. I'll quantify* that by saying that Gary can be very persuasive and doesn't beat too hard on Big Blue. It's unfortunate that the neck weld in his radiator cracked. I obviously can't speak to manufacturing defects but I definitely don't think the failure was due to improper installation or abuse.

Glad to be useful. 🙂 Sorry I can't help with an upper shaft assembly but David (1986F150Six) is a wizard at scaring up NOS parts You might post a WTB in the marketplace section. I know he goes through there almost daily.

I think this is what you need: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td15660|a16027 https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td118569|a118594 https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td135862|a135875

Maybe Microsoft's Copilot has a long way to go, but you literally turn around and mention Maps doing realtime problem solving on the fly... And with another node of GPT models Carnegie Mellon is groundbreaking in chemistry: https://arstechnica.com/science/2023/12/large-language-models-can-figure-out-how-to-do-chemistry/

With a stock fan and shroud, probably. I know when I used to tow the loaded race trailer to Daytona I'd get jammed in traffic on arrival after lead footing it for almost 20hrs straight. We would never turn the truck off for gas because we couldn't afford to get vapor locked with a mechanical pump. The gauge never climbed out of [normal] It would get WAY up there, like L, but I was dragging a 30' trailer down International Blvd in stop, crawl, stop, crawl traffic. The Aeronose 450's take the exact same radiator I do. But they attach directly to the back of the rad support with clip nuts at the top. If I get some time overnight I'll go look for Cory's post.

The problem is total heat exchange. You have a larger engine with higher compression making more power. Under load it will start cooling at 180° but if the radiator can't shed all the heat the engine is producing then the coolant temp will continue to climb. Stuck in traffic on a humid summer day is a recipe for disaster.

The way the radiator attaches top and bottom is different. Not that you couldn't adapt, but that's a LOT to go through and it might come back to bite you or a future owner. Cory (Rembrandt) had a good write-up about adapting the core support to use a later radiator in an early bullnose.

Oh dang, I did not know bullnose F150s could come with a hydraulic clutch from the factory. My bad. The 460 & IDI got hydraulic clutch for 1983 The Windsors and 300/6 went hydraulic for '84

Modine was the king of heat exchangers for many decades, in the 20th century. Visteon was Ford's climate control division but was spun off around the turn of the century and bought up by some capital group. Then Modine was taken over by them and the old product line vanished (they were bought for the name)

It was a sad day when Modine got sucked into becoming part of Visteon... It is what it is, I guess. 🤷‍♂️

It did seem to work, but I wasn't able to be under the hood and turn the steering wheel lock to lock to entirely purge the system. It certainly worked enough that I didn't fry my pump

Bradley, I used a hex bit in a battery ratchet to try and prime my pump, but I'm with Gary in that it will be okay as long as there's something in there even if it isn't completely full or purged. I'm not dancing naked around a fire or sacrificing an animal, just greeting the coming of winter.

I'm celebrating solstice Thursday night. (I guess I'm a pagan?)

Good call. It's a LOT easier to get under there with the seat out of the way.

I was just thinking about this. If the clutch pedal and master cylinder pusheod are already removed there shouldn't be anything keeping you from swinging the shaft all the way around so you can see the back of the pin. It's way up under the dash in an awkward position to begin with and won't be any easier pointing up, but if you're a contortionist....

1/2" deflection is the tension spec. You don't want any slack, you want to be able to push it in 1/2"

Just use your fingernail or an inspection mirror to see if the pin is good. When there's a bad groove the first push of the pedal will result in a crunch noise and a destroyed plastic bush.

Oh that's exciting! Christmas comes early for you. 😉

Hmmm. I've never really thought of that. Edit: you don't need to move the shaft to check. The master cylinder pushrod has a bunch of 360° freedom, so it can be slipped off or over that pin. I always pulled the pedal box as an assembly, but if you have only taken the nut off the left side and removed the pedal, the 7A554 arm/pin should still be clipped in to the master cylinder pushrod? ... I'm not sure what all was done to install the automatic in the first place, except you've obviously swapped the column. Is the clutch pedal still attached and flopping around without a spring? Is the master cylinder still there covering the hole in the firewall? You just want to check for play between the master cylinder pushrod and the pin you can see as part of the cranked arm (7A554) above. If it's good leave it until there's an issue. If it's sloppy you can feel the groove with your finger by moving the pushrod to the side. Taking off any 40 year old piece of plastic is likely to destroy it. That ~$7 assortment is less than the dealer would get for one bush (if they're still available) Farm/construction trucks see a lot of muddy, gritty boots and once that plastic wears through the metal grinds a groove. This needs to get fixed before replacing the bushing, but yours may not be bad if it hasn't seen hard use or lived much of it's life as an automatic.

I think he is talking about the cross shaft you would find in a mechanical clutch (like his '82) #7528 If you have the pedals out it is a very good time to check the pin that clips to the eye of the master cylinder pushrod for wear on the firewall side. (7A554) If there's a groove worn there you want to fix that before you destroy the fingered plastic bush that clips them together. Weld... or maybe even JB Weld would work. If there's slop in the linkage you'll find it difficult to disengage the clutch. You can get those bushings in the Dorman HELP section, sold as part of an assortment of windshield wiper bushings #49447

I don't know if you have tilt or not. (They all take the same bearing) If by U-joint you're asking about tilt, it is only serviced as an upper shaft assembly. I assume you want 3517? That would be f23z3517-b Documentation/interior/steering columns

That's the literal under the weather. 🌧️🌧️🌧️ I'm sorry you had to brave that (and travel up to Duck Ditch) in order to get health care. The outcome was good, in the end, and that's what counts.