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You can easily bypass them by inserting a spare fuse in the harness plug. It only has to pass enough current to trigger the relay.

If I had to guess I'd say it's there to support the opening when the box is molded. I can't see it keeping any critter out or affecting airflow in any way.

It's just there to support the foam on the door, right?

Had to figure when you said there was no voltage to the sender and the resistance through the wire and sender was 65 ohms.

Man, that's some hardcore fabricobbling to make it work with your 9" v/s working with a later disc brake rear that might need the lug pattern modified. Glad you're close to getting it back under the truck!

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/forum-faqs.html ETA: Would try jumping the FSS directly before I went tearing into the injection pump.

Welcome! IDI's are incredibly reliable and simple. Please start a thread down in the main forum with your questions and we'll see how the forum can help. Something I'm a little familiar with., and you might be the perfect person to help another member with a Super Duty chassis that is looking for some information about the fuel tanks in his bucket truck.

In the vehicle??? or in the gun? Definitely be conscious of what grease you use where. Like you never want to use EP moly grease in something like a driveshaft where it will pack up into flakes and leave the joint starved for lubrication.

You're right Chantal, working with a clean gun (and any tool, in fact) is much more pleasant. But I have to admit that, even clean, this tool I my most detestable one. Since I use it 3-4 times a year on my little Kubota tractor, I don't clean it too often and tolerate it dirty as it is. By the way, what's a good frequency for greasing a Bullnose? Since I change my own oil I try to give the drive line and front steering/suspension a shot of grease while the pan is draining. I generally run semi synthetic diesel oil and OCI of 5k.(miles) Though I am about ready to swap out the Motul 8100 that Amazon recommended as a deal. ETA: It's a "while I'm there" kind of thing, and probably every 6 months is closer to the factory service

I had to make a Framesaver for my passenger side but fortunately the cab itself was solid. You're doing a great job getting that cab back in shape!

If you test for continuity from the ICVR output to the tab for the water temp sender wire what do you get? It's interesting that these gauges work by sending power through a spring that uncoils when hot, much like an electric choke functions.

Which leaves you with either the instrument itself or a bad flex. It's pretty easy to see tears and corrosion on the mylar. Our member Blue Truck Parts (where you probably got the indicator cable) has a refinished temp gauge on eBay for $40, though it might stick out on an old cluster. There are other used 'known good' ones there for ~$30 delivered.

Is Shaun talking about the frame cross member or the rib across the back of the cab, where he's already made some repairs?

The little bit of seat time I have on it it was fun. That's what I have seen about dispatch use posted on a fourm I am on for the bike. Shortly after I got it I cleaned it up as it had been sitting, I used degreaser and water. Well when done I took it for a little ride and could not get over 40 MPH and was WT??? Went on the forum and when waiting for a reply pulled the plugs. Bike came with 2 sets (4 plugs) used and why I pulled them. Because the plugs are set down in the heads one filled up with water and was not firing. Thats when they came back and said there are drain holes that plug up. Sure enough that one was plugged, cleaned both and should not have that happen again LOL Dave ---- We always thought of them as a water cooled Moto Guzzi V65 Monza. Nimble and not threatening. The drain hole thing sounds like how our rear spring shackle hangers rot out.

Yep That's why I said hydraulic clutch ('83 for 460 & IDI, '84 for Windsors and the 300/4.9) You were given sage advice.

Sounds like fun Dave! I hope you get to enjoy it when you have more time to. Silverwings were very popular with dispatch (delivery) riders because of their incredible reliability, low maintenance and frugal fuel consumption as I recall.

Jeff, you have to go to the last pages of the chapter to get to the illustrations (it's not that they aren't there!) I don't often post them because I'm working from a phone and most questions are directed at the circuit, not the component Jeff. You're an architect right? If you had a plan view marked Sec A>-- -- You'd "get it" that that section was represented after the 'plan' and perhaps elevations for "forth floor" or whatever, and likely already have a picture in your head after seeing the plan and elevation views, right? It's not dissimilar here. These books were written for the dealership mechanics who if they hadn't seen the specific model, issue or component were likely familiar with it from other vehicles of the same brand. When they see a coloured triangle with a letter and "see page 91" they probably already know what they'll find on pg 91. It was much the same when there were paper catalogues behind the parts counter. You didn't flip through 1500 pages, you cracked the book open to within a couple of pages of what you needed even if there weren't tabbed sections. An EVTM hard copy is an excellent tool if you're familiar with it.

Jeff, you have to go to the last pages of the chapter to get to the illustrations (it's not that they aren't there!) I don't often post them because I'm working from a phone and most questions are directed at the circuit, not the component

The excessive eleven made a heck of a tourer, as did the FJ 1300 after that. Glass smooth and stone reliable. Yamaha weren't really known for shaft drive bikes but the XS750 was popular, as wes the Seca II (diversion) and I had a Vision for a bit when I got out of hospital in '84 Motorcycles today all seem very niche but formulaic at the same time. Back then companies like Yamaha were willing to innovate with things like 5 valves and the odd all forkless Omega tourer. Now, I hardly see any bikes on the road at all.

Thanks Dane! It was built around the idea that it should 'look' contemporary to its /7 roots But I went retro from there with rounded valve covers and a grab rail seat, +++ That bike could eat asphalt all day at 100 mph and hoist the front coming out of turns People badmouth the handling of shaft drive bikes, but try to ride a 1977 chain & sprocket bike across the Mojave without cleaning, lubing, adjusting multiple times.q She and I had ADVENTURES!!

Microanalysing ALL the rabbit holes! The BMW had dual plugged heads with custom curved Dyna II electronic ignition, stage 2.5 porting, R&D titanium valve springs and keepers, rockers welded up with hard facing and reground to a better ratio, Dellorto spigots for bigger race carbs.a custom ground cam from Wudo in Germany, CC Products 1050cc overbore with Venolia pistons and shot peened rods, swiss cheese flywheel (less than 1/2 weight) undercut gearbox, frame stiffening braces, raised engine for ground clearance, Then there was the forks, shocks, swingarm, brakes, wheels, etc, etc, ad infinitum. I should have just burned it 😭

I rather pity whomever gets my truck. While I keep box tabs with proper parts numbers in the glove box Lil Red is FAR less documented than Big Blue. I don't think many could figure out how it all works together. Same story with the BMW bike I gave my friend Bill. I tried to tell him the details and admonished him to call me if there were problems. He brought it into some idiots for service and it cost him a fortune for them to fubar it. Lotta bux out the window.... 😢

Would I want my truck restored to pristine stock? No. Not me. But if they wanted it for their museum and offered me a comparable beater with lifetime tires and oil changes I'd probably bite that hook.

I tried to get pics of the switch and plug C190 up behind the fuse panel. You see some of circuit 32 comes out of the main harness, giving enough of a whip or pigtail to reach the switch. So the harness side of C190 plugs into the left side of the switch itself, that Shaun shows. ('Speed Control' also has an input from the brake lights to disengage)

I have 62 ohms You can check the sender itself from where the wire attaches and again see ~73 ohms (cold)I have 65 ohms 65 ohms isn't bad. With that the needle should budge but not sweep up into [NORMAL] The other way you could check the gauge is to backprobe the sender wire at the plug behind the cluster to ground (any metal frame of the dash) and with the key on the water temp should be pegged. While the sender seems a little out of range I think you should confirm it's bad, and the gauge good, before condemning it. If both ohm readings are the same (and the meter battery is good) then the wire shows 0 added resistance.