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Doesn't count. Water boils at 186° at that altitude

Were you listening in on my conversation with my SiL, TJ yesterday? We were discussing the replacement of the seat and the need to do something with the rusted floor pans, and during that he said maybe we should just install a milk crate. I explained that I've done that, albeit just to move the truck into and out of the garage while working on it. Great minds think alike 😉

Parkland Performance (nee Reincarnation Automotive) builds a STOUT engine. I'm sure you won't be disappointed in Scotty's work. You better have a beefy driveline if you're actually stump pulling. Trees don't move (amhik)

Indeed You would also have a lot more space if you just sat on a milk crate. Gary has every inch of that truck packed to overflowing.

That's a part of it, but it also needs to be properly mounted and you also have to have the right cable connecting it. (none of this matters until you actually get an antenna and a SWR meter to measure.

It sucks that Venolia is gone (by any real measure) Wiseco/Carrillo will make anything you want if your pockets are deep enough.

That's BB's old bench seat (finding a new home in Charleston) With the Bronco chairs can you reach back to the top shelf?

You still don't show the CB/mic and backup mirror. That's what this thread's about...

It is. There's still room for a full width set of shelves (which happen to incorporate a large inverter, some relays for the air compressor in back, a bunch of USB ports, etc. Standing Wave Ratio is basically a measure of how much radio output makes it through the antenna and into the air. You want to make sure the hood ground is well connected (by the passenger hinge) as this is part of your ground plane. Sometimes you need to do some impedance matching using a balun in the antenna cable.

Intermittent wipers seemed to be standard on Broncos. I've never seen one in the pick 'n pull without them.

🙄 Ah, sweet child, You're new at this aren't you? Ask Gary for some pictures of "Mission Control", and his backup camera mirror, and the molded plastic headliner with speakers and CB, and the console with cupholders, and the storage box behind the seat with the charging dock, the 3000/6000W inverter, relays, fire extinguisher, go bag, etc.... ad infinitum. 🤯

Not that I know of. I mean, there are plenty of VIN decoders available but none that would cross to a build sheet or what options went onto a specific truck. Information and data technology wasn't nearly as comprehensive and certainly none of it was online when these trucks were built. The VIN would tell you what plant/series/MY/class/engine but that's about it

Do you have factory AC and the high output heater core? Perhaps the recirc/outside air door?

You can purchase a 3D printed blend door with hinge and integral actuator arm from Chuske here on the forum. (I think there are instructions on drilling out the rivet as well) https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/blend-door-repair.html

I remember the two of you discussed it when we realized Ryan was AWOL and the RJM + Old (nee Ford) Fuel Injection websites were going to vanish.

If the cable sheath is broken the shift indicator can't possibly read right. Links to Blue Truck Parts and their eBay page are posted above. This vendor has worked with us on window switches and door locks. I can't speak for the shift Indicator cable because I own a manual truck but you might reply to one of the others (Gsmblue or ratdude) who have bought them and ask if they are happy with their purchase.

Yes. And I really appreciate all the effort you put in to making this site the authoritative source for Bullnose content on the web. 👍👍👍 Thank you Gary!

Friends don't let Friends buy G2 Alternators 👍👍👍👍 I really appreciate you bringing our attention to the error in the 1986 EVTM That darn 2G haunted me for 15 years, until i finally realized there was an expedient solution. It's a shame that Ryan (of RJM fame) vanished without a trace. He set me up with a very nice kit to adapt the Busmann 175A Megafuse to my truck.

Correct, but many companies are now offering the 3G in a one wire configuration in the aftermarket just like the old GM alternators that had an excite wire and was modified into a one wire alternator. On the ratio, that depends on mine with a 3:1 ratio I was looking at 1,920 alternator rpm @ 600 engine rpm. My actual ratio after using a caliper to measure the OD of the pulley came out closer to 2 5/8" not 2 1/2" which put me at 2.71:1 ratio and gives me a 1,600 rpm alternator speed at OE 525 rpm engine speed. 2,100 rpm alternator speed with 2.71:1 ratio like I have would be at 700 rpm engine speed how ever. At the end of the day you dont want to turn these alternators too slow otherwise they wont charge properly but you also dont want to turn them too fast as you can over spin them in upper rpm range of your engine. They are also various statements out there of what rpm alternator speed that the 3G can handle but nothing clear cut. Last I saw was 18,000 was what most can handle but Ive seen that number as low as 15,000 rpm, I hopefully am ok with my setup at 2.71:1 ratio as im looking at 16,762 rpm @ 5500 rpm engine speed which would be my shift point and redline of 6,000 rpm engine speed would spin the alternator at 18,286. With the 3.07:1 to be precise ratio I would have had if it was a 2 1/2" pulley like I thought it was would have put me well over 20,000 rpm at that engine speed. I had no idea that an '82 302 showed curb idle at 525 rpm on the emissions sticker. That seems pretty crazy given how incredibly neutered that engine was in a truck. I guess i only clearly recollect how my '85 GT was supposed to be set. If RJM's pages were still up you would see the video of just how much a properly installed 3G can put out at low rpm. Perhaps Gary or Chris Tubutis has those pages saved locally for posterity? Anyone who wants a 'one wire' alternator cares more about eliminating their harness than having a properly functioning vehicle.

C&C doesn't make the difference. It's that you have a 2wd frame. In a 250 and above the 4wd models need front leaf springs. There are no radius arms to locate the front axle.

I've been saying this about the 1G regulator since my first days on FTE. Not many people were able to grasp that (Dave Franklin, Jim's Rebel and Paul Conanski did) Fortunately the dreaded firestarter only afflicted the '86 Bullnose trucks. (ALL the Bricknose and some of the Aeronose except those with the ambulance alternator were cursed)

That looks fantastic Gary! I do think you should make a notation that the actual EVTM was incorrect.(like with the tach I mentioned) Yes, I understand the difference between how a regulator is wired for ammeter v/s idiot light, and that in '86 even base models got an ammeter. But it really makes you wonder how these EVTM's get laid out and published without any proof reading by an engineer!?!?

You'd need to find a new transmission output shaft and the 4x4 tail housing to 'adapt' a married transfer case to your existing 2wd NP435. Then you'd need to completely disassemble and re-shim the gearbox to install it. I'm not sure where you bolt the linkage or a divorced transfer case but I imagine you'll have to modify your own transmission crossmember and both drive shafts in that case. Seems like a cool project. Do you have a decent driveline shop in your area?

Right. The bell housing bolt pattern for the M-block and 460's is the same, but the flywheel is about 3/8" farther back on the 460 than the M-block. So the ZF5's input shaft is too short to properly engage in the pilot bearing in the crankshaft on an M-block. I designed an adapter that bolts to the crankshaft and moves the flywheel and pilot bearing back the needed amount, and Tim is making and selling them. Link

Well, my company left yesterday and I'm trying to catch up. Looks like I missed a lot in this thread. But please help me understand what I need to do in the schematic below? C186 should show the LG/R 904 exciter wire going to (S) in the center terminal position rather than (I) at the bottom.