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To me the lower shaft of the steering column is what we're talking about.If it's the NOT hinged part -above the double D joint- that penetrates the firewall I think it's not worth mentioning. (but thanks for clarifying)

You seemed to suggest that 3524 was the lower column. But, as we all know, EVERY Ford lower column carries the same 3B676 number...

It looks to me like 3B676 is a lower shaft (ALL lower shafts) And 3524 must be upper (hinged) with 3E715 being the hinged actuator that always breaks. Maybe ping Ralph? He seems to be our resident counter jockey and the one who can best make sense of the book.

D3TZ-3C132-A is discontinued by Ford but they were available a decade ago, as seen here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1145110-calling-all-ctubutiss-and-numberdummys.html I've found two different listings on eBay. They're both about $15 with shipping. Rear counter says Green Sales has 135 and NOS Parts has 16 https://www.rearcounter.com/D3TZ-3C132-A-parts190958.html

When I look at the chart, under /Part Numbers/ it says "lower -'82/'88- also replace 3524 & 3E715, tilt wheel only." I don't have tilt wheel. Perhaps I misunderstand?

While I'm sitting here on a slow night I managed to turn up this. https://downtofab.com/products/spicer-50492 Perhaps it what you need? I can't cross the Spicer # but if you can read the BOM on your axle you can check it on their website. Or you could pull out a digital caliper and measure what you have.

Nine years ago Gary said this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1305477-dana-44-ttb-axle-shaft-seal-part-help.html

3C132 'grease retainer'? That Chicago Rawhide 531904 is so obsolete it's hard to find a cross. Looks like Torque King sells it as a kit w/ that inner spindle roller bearing you were asking about before. https://torqueking.com/product/40534/qu40534-right-side-diff-output-bearing-and-seal-kit-for-ford-dana-ifs/ JBG sells the same set for 1/2 the price. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/D44-OE-Spicer-TTB-Housing-Axle-Bearing-Kit-Right-Side/productinfo/32014/

Fine with me. Heck, were cutting the ends off anyhow.... Who cares what it fits? These seem to be $33~ delivered on eBay and ~45 Amazon Prime.

I've got to ask if this is a Windsor truck with a mechanical clutch release shouldn't the bellhousing and everything inside be the same as a 4.9? Gary shows a part number E3TZ 7515-D in this post.

Glad you've found us Kevin! The long manifold really needs to be checked for flat or the carb can come loose from the intake.

DORMAN 425366:OEM/Interchange Numbers: 7L1Z3B676A, 7L1Z3B676B, 7L1Z3B676C, 8L1Z3B676A $107 DORMAN 425387 Steering Shaft: OEM/Interchange Numbers: 7L1Z3E751A $109 Lares 507: OEM/Interchange Numbers: 425366, 7L1Z3B676A, 7L1Z3B676B, 7L1Z3B676C, 8L1Z3B676A Out of stock, so no price That's odd. The eBay listing I bought from definitely said '09-14 F-150 1A Auto gives me #8L1Z-3B676-A Here's a screenshot

Perhaps the New Member Introduction section isn't the best place to find parts? We could move this thread to the main forum or the marketplace -want to buy- section if you like. Off the top of my head I know that Dave (FuzzFace2) started with a Flareside and instead welded in a steel floor from a styleside. Perhaps he still has that set? Ron (Reamer) is a metalworker who was making bed rail caps and ,I believe, accurate reproduction license plate holders for Bullnose Flaresides. I'm not sure who would have 42mm width bed strips. The only place I know other than Mar-K is American Classic and they say theirs are 1 1/2" as well. (eBay listing here)

Welcome! Your new truck sure is in great shape. The nap of the velour seats and that the burl isn't sun faded purple say a lot as to how pampered it's been. You might post a WTB (want to buy) listing down in the marketplace section for a set of wagon wheels. I'm not too familiar with the black center caps.

I think you've done a tremendous job pulling my scattered thoughts and pictures together. Some of those photos may be staged. (there's not much point taking a picture of a steaming rag) The only things id like to see are the part numbers for the '88-'91 shaft and the number for the 2009-14 lower shaft. Also, I might add that there is no flat spring (that Cory found broken and tightened with two set screws) or plastic bush to wear out in the 2009 telescoping section.

Okay then! That's good to hear Note the instructions here..... You crack the nut or open a FRONT bleeder in order to reset the rear system. You turn the key to RUN so the brake failure light can tell you when to stop pushing the pedal. If that spring is what's left of your warning light switch I'm not sure how you know when to stop...

It seems you have a wet fitting. Is there a leak, or did you crack the line nut loose to check for fluid? Also looks like the spring loaded plunger from the brake warning switch has popped out. . Getting the shuttle to move was a challenge 40 years ago when Ford suggested to stand on the pedal. Crud, corrosion and rock hard O-rings may make it impossible today. (or, maybe not. I can't speak to the condition of your brake system) If you have a vacuum bleeder like my Mity-Vac you could fill the cup with fresh fluid and reverse the ports on the pistol to pump fluid from the bleeder towards the master cylinder. That was the only way I used to be able to get the hydraulic clutch on my GSXR 1100 bled.

Large file sizes on the forum will cause the picture not to load. You can use the resize/big size button in the right hand column to do it automatically.

Yes, to bleed the brakes you need the bleeder open, otherwise the air compresses and just pushes fluid back when you let off the pedal.

Gary, Respectfully I'm referring to the multifunction valve found in our generation trucks, NOT the pressure differential valve used on 1967-'72 trucks pictured here. (From our good friend Keith Dickson at the Fordifction forum) Hopefully he will not object to my cribbing some of his writeup if credit is given. To which he says: This diagram from the Ford Truck Shop Manual isn't 100% accurate, as the factory piece actually used has 5 ports (plus the switch port) as opposed to the 4-port Mustang version showed here. However, the principle is the same. Unlike a metering valve or a proportioning valve, a pressure differential valve doesn't have any preset pressure settings to delay or to reduce the hydraulic pressure being applied. It's just a spool suspended and balanced inside the valve body between equal pressures of the front and rear brake circuits. If the pressure in either circuit is unequal, the spool is pushed to the low pressure side, closing the switch contacts and illuminating the dash-mounted warning light...simple. It doesn't have any metering function for the front brake circuit and no proportioning function to the rear brake circuit like the all-in-one brake assemblies" Way farther down the page. https://www.fordification.com/tech/propvalve101.htm is the correct diagram for our generation trucks. " This is the combination valve as used on '73-later trucks equipped with front disc and rear drum brakes for trucks under 6,800# GVW." Note, on the left, the metering valve bleeder.

This was Gary's advice to the gentleman above you: "The pressure, differential, proportioning and metering valve are three different systems. (Figs. 4 and 5). There are three functions of the pressure differential valve: It delays full effectiveness of the front brake, it proportions pressure to the rear system, and it operates a warning system in case of malfunction. During heavy brake application, the proportioning valve reduces pressure to the rear brakes to avoid lock-up. The metering valve delays effectiveness of the front disc brake until the rear brake shoes are against the drum." But there's really not very much to the valve, so you might be able to clean it if the shuttle is stuck to one end. Here's an illustration of it:

I crossed the Ford# When I punch THAT number into Google I find those studs available on Amazon (though NOT sold or delivered by)

That seems a good summary of what I did to make the '09 shaft center section fit my Bricknose. It doesn't have any flat springs or plastic bushings in the telescoping section. I'm also startled to recall that it was under $20 delivered (mentioned current cost to Rene) The top one? I have no idea...

Aka Dana/Spicer 36326-2 https://www.rearcounter.com/E0TZ-3C140-A-parts2218248.html

Do you have a 150 or a 250/350? The warning light should have come on (unless it's been unplugged) You need to either push or pull the pin that holds the spool in place in the multi-function valve (brass "proportioning" valve) found below the driver. There was a bit of discussion about how this really works recently. I deleted my posts in that thread.....