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I think you've done a great job! :nabble_anim_claps:I Clear and understandable while elaborating on those nuance's. One additional thing. I didn't mention a concern about is that many of the illustrations are kinda generic. As in wysiNwyg. Bulletproof F250 was asking about his "D44HD (axle to) spindle bearing', and -of course- my pedantic self gave him the part numbers for spindle to hub bearings and seal.... But I pasted the diagram from the D44 documentation page asking to please clarify X base number for that bearing at that location. The diagram doesn't show the other (left) upright and spindle. But: A) he didn't seem to get that you needed to cross that base part# in the interchange for his specific truck to get a P/N. B) that bearing is shown for the right side only, because that axle is unsupported in the pivoting beam (I didn't know the R/L even/odd trick at that time) Anyway.. two thumbs up!

It's excellent that you and the boys got featured! They'll be licensed and on the road before you know it.

Yup. It's the part number you order but many of us find parts at swap meets, the pile in our neighbor's garage, online where someone only lists it by the ID# because they are looking at a part that's completely obsolete/the dealer doesn't have books or microfiche any more and has no motivation to help. M, U and X in the line code are SVO parts, aka: homologation specials. They don't always follow the rules. Honestly, this wouldn't be the first time you've caught a typo in the parts book.

Could it be for a medium duty truck that is governed to 75mph? I don't recall seeing a pickup that has that circled in red. In any case the red looks 'off', like they did a poor job repainting the needles.

The condenser you have in your hand where the old coil was is a good thing, but that wiring is a mess! Orange wire nuts and poorly crimped connections that shouldn't be used on a lawnmower that never gets used in rain or snow don't belong on a road driven vehicle. And that mess behind the battery looks like someone vomited tri-colore spaghetti on the inner fender. I would have suggested going back to DS-II, but the last few times I've tried to get simple tune-up parts like a quality cap and rotor none of my local auto parts stores could get them inside a week or they offered a ridiculously priced MSD cap that I could buy for less than 1/2 the cost delivered to my door tomorrow. Over by the original DS-II box on the driver's side the 'extra' harness plug is for EEC-IV trucks. Ford made the harness so it could be used for both electronic engine control or Duraspark styles, and save them a lot of time on the line. My personal opinion today would be to install an HEI kit (with *pigtail*) and maybe buy a spare so I'm never 'stuck' finding or waiting on parts, but can be on the road in an hour and track them down later. Gary has write-ups under Documentation/Electrical/Ignition/Ignition Simplification. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ignition.html To properly do an HEI you need a relay and a heavy wire to provide more current than the stock Ford harness would. If you go this route we can help you, but I'm not going to advise you to buy some high buck brand.

Gary, I appreciate your detailed reply. I wanted to stress that "Just because a part was originally made for a Falcon doesn't mean the part came off of a Falcon." Because we saw this exact thing not long ago here on the forum. I do think including the bit about which engineering dept might not help many except to alleviate their confusion about 'what do all these letters/numbers on my part mean?' I think saying Z is a Ford service part is kind of redundant in that any part you order is going to have a Z suffix. KIS all you want. Perhaps tagging these two links on is best? Today I learned that basic numbers that are odd are left hand and even numbers are right. 🤯

That's odd. Not only because it seems you have an intermediate pipe for a 138" WB truck (43782), but because it looks like the intermediate pipe is direct to the tailpipe going over the axle. The Walker diagram shows a hanger tab on the back of the muffler (black square) right about where that frame bracket is. Otherwise it only shows three clamps and a tailpipe hanger (35460) aft of the axle. (the other black square)

Welcome back Nick! Glad to see that Phil has been reliable and valuable through your move. Certainly don't see any three on the tree vehicles any more (I had a 64 Dart in highschool) Please do show pictures of any wiring 'mess' going on. Do you intend to keep the MSD ignition? Go back to stock DSII? Really 'clean it up' and use an all-in- one HEI to do away with an exposed ignition coil all together?

With Ford EVERY inner spindle bearing they ever used on every car and truck ever produced has the same basic part number. (Just had this with Gary last night) Illustrations are entirely generic. You need to go to the MPC to get an actual part# for your application. But at least we are confirmed that this is the right bearing, in the right location?

So 3123 in this exploded view?

The inner and outer spindle bearings are different. They are the same side to side. Timken set 37 on the inside and set 45 for the outside. You also need to change the hub seals when you pull the races. (Spicer 40709) National 4250

Gary, Front and center seems best. At least everyone will see it even if they don't read it (until they get confused) I think you could expound a little more about engineering revisions. A, B, C, D, AA, AB, AC etc.. How there might be 3-4 iterations of say, an alternator bracket with the first year of a new engine in the Mercury division, but they are each unique to different models of car, or are even introduced years later. Also, that on an original part (opposed to a replacement part) the fourth digit designates what system that part belongs to. Drive line, suspension, heating/cooling, whatever. i.e. D9TE on a head or engine block is obviously an engine part, but some little bracket or whatever might not be obvious.

I've never seen the hinge in the middle flatbeds but I do see Landoll trucks moving intermodal containers and big stuff like industrial machines I responded to a fatal a couple of years ago where a whole family went under a Landoll type truck with a 40' high cube on it. Because of how the bed tilts the ICC bar was either not there or ineffective. That one really shook me.

It's a lesson you may not live to learn! The cigarette lighter (460 Y/LB) is hot at all times and close enough to the radio for constant power.

If you're 52 you've probably been working with "black=hot" for 30 years. It's no wonder your brain went there automatically. 💡 Fortunately you didn't let the smoke out of the radio or the harness. I've been a contractor with a few cabinet shops over the years. I'm familiar with both single phase residential and three phase (208 & 480) in star and delta for the oddball assortment of machines I've owned. Some of those use black as neutral. Things can get 'spicey' when you've got 40A at 480! 🤯

Don't beat yourself up. Y/B is hot in run & accy for the radio. I assume you also need constant 'keep alive' power for settings and memory?

Congrats Steve! I'm not sure why anyone would tie a ground to that wire. The main cab ground is right there next to the radio. Give me a minute and I'll post the diagram....

I would definitely check the pulleys for any sharp edges and spin the power steering pump without the belt on, to see if there's any play or tight spots. Does your pump only have a single belt? Does it share the belt with the air conditioning compressor?

With the bed off you can easily see the condition at the bottom of the tanks. I don't ever think it's worth the time and effort to try and clean one out these days.

Have you tried powering either one of them directly? 18 years is a long time soaking in trash gas but it's pretty easy to get the plug off the midship tank and see if you get a pulse when the key hits run. Maybe it's something upstream that's common to both tanks?

A strap wrench works by pinching the loose end of the strap under a lever. If you lever on the side of the 37 year old plastic housing you're likely to break it, Certainly the person before you needed a lot of bite with their pliers. If you grabbed it tight, is an aluminum soda pop can stronger in the middle or on the bottom?

Green interior is "spruce". C&C truck would have narrow springs and a big long fuel tank. Cool! Show us some pics when 6ou get a chance.

Interesting... Is it a cab & chassis truck? (straight frame rails) or a bed delete pickup? Sounds promising if it fired right up. The close ratio T-19 is a stout gearbox.

Looks like someone's already been in there with a pair of channel locks.... Yes you can change the filter. Best to cam on the 'floor' of the reservoir so you don't crack the housing. As far as the pumps, the EEC triggers the fuel pump for a couple of seconds to prime. It then waits for a PIP signal from the distributor turning to close the relay again. From there power goes through the inertia switch to both the high pressure pump at the reservoir on the frame rail and the selector switch, on to the frame mounted valve, then to the in-tank pump being used. Here's the diagram and troubleshooting.

I've never seen a bleeder without a tapered seat. That's how they work.