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At the top of the page under Documentation/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Diagrams/Vacuum Acronyms you will find a list explaining the abbreviations. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vacuum-system-acronyms.html Doesn't your truck have a vacuum routing diagram on the radiator support?

Plugs look good. It's a Ford... Cylinders are numbered 1-4 on the passenger side, front to back Drivers side 5-8 front to back. Consider that you have a 5.0, look at which manifold runner the PCV attaches to.

I don't know which/what springs you installed, but consider that they will settle down. (all springs take a set) The new ones may also be stiffer or have a higher spring rate. Kingpin (2wd) beams need bent. You can't do that with a live axle. Depending on how much suspension lift you ended up with you may need drop pivots to correct your steering geometry. These ones from Tuff Country are intended for 2" 'leveling kits' and have eccentric pivots to properly correct camber

This eBay seller shows a cutaway of the bleeding tool doing it's job

You could probably safety wire it in place. I see a little hole down between the two cables that would serve well as a lashing point to hold the plastic boss into the retaining slot of the bracket.

The OEM valves (150 or 250/350, they're re different) they have a built-in plunger that holds the shuttle centered so you can bleed the brake system without blocking flow and setting the brake warning light. I don't know the thread pitch of the Carolina Classics. It looks tapered to me. 🤔 The 'tool' has to keep the hourglass shape at the center of the valve from shifting, without scratching or damaging the brass piston or bore. it's a nylon screw with a pin/nub on the end. Pretty outrageous they want $18 for it.

Look on the door sticker for the transmission code. I would assume C4 or AOD, but I'm beginning to forget, and I'm not so good with the lighter pickups.

Welcome CD! Seems like you're on top of things. Which transmission do you have? Slow crank due to weak battery? Cables? Starter?

To be clear... we're talking about the PS (right) shaft. Have the boot and clamps in hand before you release it at the splines. And be sure the seal at the differential is good. You don't want to have to go through all this again.

Both of the "dog tags" on Pluto were inside, so it seemed like he needed something on the outside. And actually having his name seemed like a good idea. But Lesley thought we could do better than slapping a decal on. So I touched up the scratched black paint on the bumper and Lesley made a stencil. After hitting it with some yellow spray paint, Pluto has a dog tag with his signature on it! (or maybe it's a tramp stamp??? No, Tramp is from a different Disney movie!) That's cute Bob. Lesley did a great job too!

Here's a thread with some discussion. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td80945|a80968 Bob seems to think the three bolt retainer was only until 1983. There are parts breakdowns in the documentation. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/axles--differentials.html

Dorman H38044 Fits '80-'84 & '87-'9X Dorman H38044 Rear Center Brake Hydraulic Hose Compatible with Select Ford Models https://a.co/d/3wrWhEN

There are a bunch of stock style aftermarket proportioning valves, like the one mentioned above from CC. Some of these don't require the 1/2-20 adapter that one needs. Willwood is nice but not direct replacement and would need to be tuned.

Does your year have the bolt on shaft retainer or does it have the C-clip inside the pumpkin? There's a Blue Oval tech article that shows the difference. Bolt in is (somewhat) accessable. If you have a C-clip retained axle you have to separate the pinion carrier from the beam in order to R&R the clip.

Fortunately those are still available. Do you happen to have the part number?

Welcome! That's a really well kept truck with a great color combo. I'm pretty sure Ralph (ex-Ford parts man) posted the numbers for each of those letters not too long ago.

You should have the brake hose coming down to the splitter block, and then the axle breather hose (fits over the retaining bolt) clipped to the top of the frame rail. I can't help with diagnosing the valve but if the hose fitting on top is the same as 150's and my later truck I could give you a readily available part number that would eliminate the valve. Perhaps someone has already done away with the load valve and that's why the rears grab so hard when the springs hold the bed high? Maybe some pics would help us see what's going on?

MES = Marine Electric Suppliers You would think it is sparkproof.

Did you remove the rubber drains to get all the muck out? Do you feel good about how you sealed the area from inside? I did the best I could from the access panel and the cowl drain openings, but I still wish I had a better solution.

There should be a vent panel or a cover plate in behind the kick panel. Behind this is the pocket where the rubber cowl drain attaches from the bottom. If you have water coming from the firewall/side panel/floor, that pocket is already rotted out and the water is not only getting into the cab, but into the cab support where the bushings bolt it down to the frame crossmember. I realize you don't think it needs to hold up for too much longer. I'm just saying that water in the cab is only a symptom of a deeper problem. I wish I could find the pictures from when I cut this out to replace it. It's pretty eye opening when you realize all the structure that passes through there.

The "test" page that came with my PMGR reflects those numbers pretty well (44A to pull, 13A to hold IIRC) Gary has that info posted somewhere. If you intend to replace your crunchy ignition switch it might be a good idea to wire in a more accessible relay. You definitely don't want a be running 40A+ through a key switch. One place I've found that has great service and quality components is Texas Industrial Electric. You might check out their selection.

Bill Vose has explained this load sensing valve attached to the rear axle in detail. I'm going to notify him of this thread. In the meanwhile you might want to look at it and make sure the valve isn't bent and still attached as it should be. My truck doesn't have one and I'm pretty certain that if the unobtainable mechanism is broken you could replace the rear flex hose from the crossmember to the axle splitter/vent block with one like like mine.

Do you have any front brake function??? The fronts should be doing most of the stopping in any case. First off, if you've recently replaced the booster and master cylinder make sure both reservoirs are still full. Two things that could effect the rear only might be the brake combination (proportioning) valve below the *master. This will block off one circuit of the brakes and set the brake failure light on the dash. The other is if you have a 250/350 truck there should be a ride height sensing valve between the frame and rear axle. This is supposed to determine how much weight is on the rear axle and apply more force when loaded.

I can see your photo, but I don't understand it. The pads should all be finished to a single arc matching nominal drum diameter. Having short friction at the top of the front shoe is intrinsic to how servo brakes function. That shoe needs to shift forward off the pivot when pushed by the wheel cylinder. Brake shoes should come as two pairs.

There's definitely a leading and a trailing shoe. I always see the friction material is longer on one. Never noticed that either shoe is thicker. That doesn't make sense.... Both use the same pivot and the drum is one inside diameter for both. The one at the rear (coming from the adjuster to the top pivot when the vehicle is in forward motion) cams it self harder. You have to pay close attention which you're installing the metal tab that the adjuster cable runs around. Short friction always goes to the front. Note the distance from top pivot to the beginning of the friction material in this photo from Akebono. "Duo servo type drum brake: The duo servo type features a structure where two brake shoes, called the primary shoe and secondary shoe, are linked via an adjuster.Strong pressure from the servo effect (self-boosting effect) of the primary shoe is transmitted to the linked secondary shoe, thus generated a very large braking force."