ArdWrknTrk

Well, I just mean that the round bar, while rusty, didn't flake away like the surfaces did compressed under those bushings. It's a 7/8 bar...so 22mm. By the time it's sand blasted, maybe it would only end up being 21.5mm, or 21mm. I'll measure it, but I'm sure it'll be fine....and at the very least better than no bar at all;). I have a thing for adding swaybars to these trucks. Although a 1994, it's the same chassis and suspension that was used in 1980 (Basically). I dislike the body roll in the turns and such, and when I added even just a rear bar to my '84 Flareside, it was a huge improvement. If the alloy gets diluted a bit that's fine. I doubt there'd ever be enough stress on the bar to ever break it. Once I install new shocks, they'll take care of half or more of the body roll I'm feeling now anyway. You DO notice the emoticon laughing? It is fine..

Define "fine"... It's a street driven pickup. You're not doing the Baja 500. The bar is probably 4130 or something similar used to forge an axle. You'll definitely dilute the alloy and destroy the heat treatment... shot peening went away with the rust on the bar. But the area fretted away under the rubber isn't seeing much load. Anything you put back is still going to be stronger than the isolator, cups or threads. Look at the crap material an aftermarket end link is made of. I don't think there's any problem way out there at the end.

And this is why I say verify., then rectify. Your battery is apparently very good! The 2G is always suspect. Theoretically the battery should have 12.6V so maybe your meter is reading a little high, but I wouldn't pass it without an actual load tester. These diagnostic scanners they use at auto parts stores give a quick look at battery and charging system health. But the counter kid doesn't want to disconnect the battery or be the last straw responsible for killing it. Your situation could be a worn starter. It could be a rotten cable. It could be a combination of many factors. I'd definitely try to determine why the quiescent draw seems so high and do a voltage drop test on the starter & charging system (both cold and hot)

Welcome Dallas! Glad it's working for you now. The 300/4.9 I-6 is an incredibly tough and reliable engine that used to be found in all kinds of things in addition to pickups. Pumps, gensets, wood chippers...... We don't see too many utility bodies/service trucks here on the forum but hopefully can answer whatever electrical questions you have if you start a new topic down in the main section where more people will see it.

That is great news, Frank! Good to hear from you. A pre-emissions head along with your new compression should bring a little beans to your '81 truck. Well done! As I'm known to say, Progress is gooood!

I have a Wixey digital angle gauge like that in aluminum. It was about $25 from Rockler woodworking. I bought it for saw and fence setups but suggested a week ago that Deren use it or something similar to track his home shop caster adjustments.

I'm convinced that somebody could make a good business around modding gas core supports with the drop to fit IDI radiators. (I doubt there's enough in it to justify a set of stamping dies a short run) Maybe Tabco would be willing?

And a gooseneck places the weight pretty much right above the axle. I'm glad I have a pressure valve on my master cylinder. So Deren's friends 87 should too. But IDK about Bricknose dually's if they ever had a load valve. Bill probably would, because Darth is an amalgam of many years.

C2 is not a 'bad' pump. It just whines, growls and pees with the engine off.

That view is not entirely new to me. 🤮 Surprised they hadn't noticed the wet backing plate long before it got to that. At least it wasn't the pinion seal!

Apologies. I wasn't thinking Flareside when I brought the bolts up. I'm sure Cory could tell you what's best. This is why many of us outline our vehicles in our signature (it helps others know, without digging back into a thread, or even to their introductory post...)

Instead of "stall" use a term like loading or shudder. Not to be a Luddite but I miss Boolean operators and primitive browsers like Alta Vista and Netscape.👴

Alright! That's another bullet dodged. So you won't need to tear the front down and can move on to the next low hanging fruit. Have you done any more reading on torque converter symptoms?

Yup. These trucks have their idiosyncrasies. 90% are going to have atf and dust caked all over the underside of the hood on the driver's side.

I'm not too well versed in Bronco, obviously.... In my little mind anything is possible until it is disproved. So, if the bung and mounting is the same it must be something like the rollover.

Your interior does look great, Chris! Is that the printed speaker patch that Gary designed? As for my Sony radio, I'm no fan of the app and had to uninstall it from my phone to keep my sanity. ... I'll admit to being technically challenged. I have a Lilland midship tank from RA. Seems high quality. ** and it looks like I'll be getting a rear soon! I just filled up and my truck is dripping! Its a pita with my receiver hitch but I'm in no position to pull the bed.

If you decide you're going to remove your timing case pull the radiator entirely. No chance of damage and you can get the alternator pivot out easily.

Deep impact socket has always worked for me, but your front pulley/dress may be deeper than I'm used to. Didn't mean to offer poor advice or trivialize the process.

I stand corrected. So, explain the difference between E0TZ9002-G and E5TZ9002-B shown above for 'U' (Bronco models)

No, you don't need to remove the pan. You need to remove the two bolts through the pan on either side of the crank nose. Edit!!! I hadn't realized you have a 400. Since a 335 timing case is in the block and the cover is just a plate, I may well be wrong. Gary would know better than I do.... If you buy a timing chain gasket set it will come with two little 'ears' of pan gasket to replace that part. You glue them in with oil resistant silicone like GM's "The Right Stuff' or 'Ultra Gray' from Permatex

There's not a different FDM listed for the 85/86 Bronco in the MPC??? I can't even understand how someone could fit the pump through a 2" hole. They would certainly have a different sender in '87 on because the bricknose clusters read 16 ohms (E) and 153 ohms (F) Backwards and over nearly double the range.

I'm sorry Chris. I certainly didn't mean to come off as argumentative. Bill's procedure is simple, and perhaps enlightening. I too hope you can enjoy your truck before you dig in.

JBG is wrong on that count. Fords specs are 10-73 ohms with an allowable deviation of 3. Note the last paragraph in this page from the EVTM. If there was a difference with the 85-86 sending units it is that is when Ford went to the larger tank bung to allow for in-tank pumps with the advent of 5.0 EFI. So the pickup/sender units are different, but the range is the same.

Testing for timing chain slack/slap takes 5 min and a single tool (deep 15/16 on a breaker bar) Diagnosis is about methodically eliminating potential problems (at least without something like OBD-II) Before fretting about an inaccessible thing like the torque converter maybe do the test in less time than you've devoted considering the fluid coupling?

The resistance range and sweep didn't change until 1987 when the bricknose trucks got a new style cluster.