ArdWrknTrk

Yeah, that throwout bearing and flywheel look pretty rough for 5k mi... 😳 Afraid I can't help you with removing the shifter from a T170. I've never been inside of one. Sorry for your loss! 🥺

I'm sure it's time to relax, Gary. But knowing you you're probably taking notes on the days events and plotting next years GTG. Looking forward to some coverage.

Would be a lot easier if replacement TSS's came with the connector loose since there's only one way to get the new one in...💡 Some forward thinking aftermarket company could probably charge a $5 premium and save themselves an assembly step at the same time. But what do I know?

Gary beat me to it. Hey! Aren't you extra busy this weekend, or something????

Tom, you need to first pull out that red plastic retainer, then you can access the pins with a dental pick (or an actual depinning tool) Be very careful not to bend the retaining tangs too much. If you're done with the old one already installed just cut the wires and tie a string on so you have something to pull the new wires back down.

Well if you don't have inspection and the pump you bought is 5 or less psi I'd say your float is stuck. Try rapping on the bowl with a screwdriver handle or something similar. Maybe the float will come loose and stop overflowing. "Too much volume" is not a problem.

What fuel pump did you install? Is it specifically for carburetors?

You've circled the evaporative emissions bowl vent that should be connected by a purge valve to the charcoal canister. The float is stuck or the pump is putting out more than 5psi.. Do you need to pass visual emissions where you live?

That was my first thought Chris, but AFAIK the vacuum switching is entirely mechanical behind the controls. Fan on or off and speed doesn't effect the vacuum and where it's routed. According to the picture from the EVTM the kicker operates in all positions except vent and floor. Maybe I misinterpreted the OP, and this jump in idle happens when they shift from vent to heat, or panel to defrost? If that's the case it could well be a cracked/broken line or a damper motor with a blown diaphragm. Edit: does the idle kick up if you have it set in 'floor' or 'vent'?

The engine rpms increase by 1,000? I think there is a throttle kicker solenoid (shown here highlighted in orange from the '81 EVTM) But that wouldn't explain why it affects the heater. Perhaps that's because the weak alternator otherwise wouldn't keep up with the draw of the blower motor. Note the last paragraph under How The Circuit Works...

Not really. As the other Jim said there should be a mechanical pump on the engine. If your truck had a pump in the tank it would have to have a four wire connector on the tank bung. This is why you can't find an electric fuel pump in that application. The only '85 trucks that would have an in-tank pump would be the 5.0l EFI and 7.5 with Hot Fuel Handling. Here's a schematic showing how single and dual tank 4.9's were set up. If your truck ran well before I'd think your best bet is to replace the retrofitted pump with one similar.

Did your truck function well with the old aftermarket fuel pump? Would you consider just replacing it, rather than reverting to stock? Do you have dual tanks? Switch on left of climate control? And does this one pump function with both tanks (i.e. is there a switching valve involved) A picture of the pump in place and the wiring going to it would help.

I'm pretty sure that anything you need to do to the cab corner you're going to have to pull the seat out anyhow. (and the B pillar trim, sill covers,...) Not sure what "over time" means to you. I'd likely deal with my 1/2 rubber mat while welding up the floors, then paint, then install insulation/sound proof and carpet at once. Vote 4x???

Another in the de-pin camp (not that Tom needs to hear the consensus) Just take a picture and be methodical.

It doesn't work to use the 'large size' option in the right column of the insert image window?

I'm seeing an Edelbrock knock-off 1409 "marine" carburetor on Amazon for under $200.... All the usual caveats about Chinese 'junk' apply, but it's worth knowing about. Edit, link didn't work: Trucktok 1409 Marine Carburetor Performer 600 CFM 4 Barrel Square Bore with Air Valve Secondary Electric Choke Carburetor Replacement for Chrysler Chevy Marine Engine https://a.co/d/4jWRQlD

Gary, it's not about "too rich", a carburetor meters fuel to air. An oversized carb is more likely to be too lean because the smaller displacement wouldn't provide enough signal (depression) to suck fuel. Regardless, Larry needs a carb that fits his manifold, and that's obviously a 4V at this point Looking at 1975 Mercrusiers with a 302 I see this: https://www.mercruiserparts.com/888-2-bbl-ford-302-v-8-1971-1977-31 I will definitely try to pick Tommy's brain while y'all are having a truck gathering.

I didn't mean right now. My buddy Tommy is a retired/disabled marine mechanic. Even he has no idea what all the stuff he has in his shed. Let me see if I can get over to his place this weekend.

Please look at Gary's pic of the air horn above. 9834-3 is the list number (this is Holley's application code) The date code is 291st day of year 5 (could be 75, 85, 95, 05....) I am interested in why that horn sticks up in the back.

Does your neighbor drive a manual often? 🤔 Does it go forward, or is the clutch completely blown? Were the PP locating dowels on the flywheel in good shape? Seems weird that you wouldn't have noise in neutral or when the throwout bearing is engaged, but there is noise when the flywheel, disc and pressure plate should all be turning together.

12V choke and no external bowl vents with "Holley for Motorcraft" says it isn't a 4180, but I was asking about Larry's carb with the symmetrical horn on the secondary side.

It would be good if he could get a photo of the list# and date code from the front of the choke horn. I've worked on more than a few marine engines (that's where I first spotted my valve covers) but I'm no marine mechanic. Yes, I do think your electric choke will swap right over, but keep in mind Ford specific (Motorcraft) carbs are set up for 7V from the stator wire. If Larry's (spark arrestor equipped) marine alternator doesn't have an external stator stud, that may complicate installation. Also, there is a marine specific Holley 12V electric choke (45-258 2300) I've tagged Bill. 😉

I can't detail all the differences, but marine carbs are Coast Guard compliant. They have sealed shafts and vents that won't overflow outside, but down the bore. There may be other details I don't recall. If safety inspection and insurance are on your mind these details are important.

I'm just trying to point out that there's no direct comparison between 2 & 4V cfm ratings.

Bill, Can you elaborate on the different vacuum levels that 2 & 4V carburetors are rated at? 2V @ 3" and 4V 1.5" depression....