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Seems a reasonable plan. I hope you find the cause without much difficulty.

Well done! I envy the members who can find a serviceable Bullnose truck. The winter salt and mag chloride here in the Northeast just eats them up... She looks quite happy and proud of herself. (As she should be 😉)

Rene, it's VERY possible you warped your rotors and/or drums decending those mountain passes while riding the brakes to failure. I don't imagine a spindle socket for a 37 year old American truck is readily available in Europe. I think you've done well to adapt and overcome! I've never set a front spindle to a specified torque. Perhaps when seating a new bearing while turning the wheel, but then I back it off to some minimal play (to account for heat) and call it good.

Welcome! I'm going 5o move your post to the new members start here subforum. The place that link in your confirmation email should have taken you..

Amazing how that happened! Looks to have a really nice set of 2heelsxand tires on it too. Congratulations!

Note I said "home brewed"... Sure you can combine a bunch of bolt-ons and get a tune without spending :nabble_money-flying-23_orig: and hours on a Dyno. Street takeovers are a real problem out here. Law enforcement monitors social media but cities and towns still get overrun by these dangerous and menacing idiots. It's no wonder there are violent confrontations. Things are FAR different from 30-40 years ago when 20 kids with six packs meet up and face off in a remote location to see who gets the best holeshot or a dozen 50-70 year old guys with street rods in the Dairy Queen parking lot on Monday nights all summer long. Welcome to the information age, I guess...

I replaced the vacuum advance module because it wasn't holding vacuum. I'm not sure it's working too much and there isn't a lot of rotation in the mechanical plate when I move it manually. Not like what is shown in videos. What am I looking for when I check? I know the timing should change as the engine revs. It does some, but not a lot. It's not advancing 20-25 degrees, like going from 10 at idle to 35 at higher rpm. Vacuum moves the whole plate. Centrifugal moves the rotor relative to the plate. You could have a very narrow slot and you could have a pair of heavy springs. You'd need to take it all apart to see it. Refer to the Duraspark recurve pages for some detail of how it all works together, Like Bill said, it's the same mechanism underneath, just with a reluctor and pickup above the backing instead of points and condenser

You don't need a whole lot of access. Just take them loose at the bottom in the back. Then it's easy enough to reach the rubber drains and pop them off.

Good to hear from you Randy! Are you still running points and condenser? Why not get under there and chalk up the timing marks? I'm going to tag Bill. This seems right up his alley..

Ok, "enthusiast" is the wrong term. There's plenty of performance off-road and street cars made today. Today you can buy a Hyundai off the lot that would blow the doors off my old '85 GT notch. But you don't have kids today doing all the longhand math when they can punch a few keys into Desktop Dyno. They're not cutting valve reliefs in piston tops and polishing rod beams or porting heads with dad's die grinder out in the garage all night long.. The manufacturing of vehicles today is too optimized for a bunch of homebrewed easy gains. I'm not talking about someone racing at the national level. I'm talking about Wednesday night grudge matches at the abandoned airfield on the edge of town. Thanks for your kind offer! My truck takes the 3-3/4"(?) ring and it's $3.72 from RA or $8 something from Amazon tomorrow... I'm good with that.

There's one on either side. Pull the rubber boot off and the hole is 1-3/8 x 2(?) Blow some water in from the bottom to loosen the sludge up and then hose it all out from the top.

The Lg/Y constant power wire should already be up there but not attached. Door & panel switches power the dome light through the Bk/Lb wire. Ground is through the mounting screw. Here's the 1980 EVTM.... Edit: on second look I see both wires at C406 and C705 but I see the Lg/Y wire also has connection at C202 which would be at the bottom of the driver's B pillar. The 1980 harness is a little unique, and I can't say circuit 54 is continued up to the lamp if the map light wasn't optioned for your truck At worst you would have to push a wire from the lamp down to the cab corner. Sorry if I don't know these first year trucks as well as I do the later ones.

I think enthusiasts are ageing out, along with refurbish/repair shops not having enough profitable work to keep the bills paid. (unless you specialize in vintage Ferrari's or something) Face it, vehicles today are microprocessor controlled appliances with enough embedded nanny systems that can't function without a factory part being coded and calibrated it's a big challenge to work on them in your garage or an analog shop. They're also built to be leased for 3-5 years when 'stuff' starts to fall apart. I used to know where to get clutches and brake shoes refaced. When Ricky my auto radiator and A/C shop (2 blocks down from the alignment shop) decides to hang it up they'll all be gone. I live 40 miles from Manhattan. The affluenza and gentrification have driven all the machine shops, spring shops, fab/welding shops ect 45 minutes minimum upstate. Generic engine builders don't seem to exist around here any more. If I need to get a new tank when I drop mine to find the leak I'm going to get the silver powder coated one from Liland. The mag chloride brine the DOT uses around here burns through zinc almost as bad as hydrochloric acid. Hopefully it's just the rusty lock ring, since I installed a "stainless" sender unit along with a new tank back in 2015 when I had the bed off. Ok. Enough crying. I've got to get back to work.

Sorry to hear that the shop didn't torque your engine fasteners. That's really disappointing. The parts look good! Hope they all work well with your mirrors and switches too!

Three manifold bolts on one side missing?!?! How thick are your header flanges? Have you considered safety wire or Stage-8 locks?

At least you have a place. The local driveline shop closed up a couple of years back, and I found out yesterday that my alignment guy retired and closed the business about a month ago.(they've been open in the same location longer than I've been alive) Tank looks good! I have to drop mine and figure out where it leaks if I overfill it.

The wand socket is looking good! LED's never seem to work well with colored lenses. At least in the case of a single #90 behind both red & green. LED the same color as the lens is fine. Though I really like LED's and feel they have advantages in a marine environment if you're going to keep the bow light I'd stick with incandescent.

So the throttle positioner is s working (everything but vent & floor) And yet the rpms jump whenever you move the lever from 'off' Very strange that the rpms drop when the kicker opens the throttle plate.. That's a big jump for a vacuum leak that you should be able to hear in the cab. Definitely confusing

Tom, did you try removing the drive gear shown in the above illustration? (It's retained behind the lock cylinder) I know the insides of my non-tilt column differ a little from yours but what you're describing is all above that.

That's a great price on a marine specific carb, and it looks good on there!

Without pics of the installation and wiring, a link to the specific pump you've installed, nor any details like if you've installed fuel filters and where it's going to be very difficult to diagnose this. I kinda doubt the line is getting sucked flat if the previous replacement pump was able to easily overpower the float and gush fuel from the eec vent. But it would be good to know if the fuel is scungy and plugging something up.

I think you must have a bad vacuum leak. Vent or floor shouldn't effect the throttle kicker according to the diagram, but moving the control from 'OFF' to any position would engage the fan. Maybe Chris has some insight, since that was his first suggestion?

Here's your part from a vendor in San Antonio. https://prosteeringcolumn.com/1980-1991-ford-bronco-f-150-f-250-econoline-tilt-steering-column-ignition-lock-actuator-d1az-3e723-c.html What do you think is broken???

This is the upper tilt column actuator I mentioned before. Your part is good. It's the lower part pot metal that breaks. IIRC there is a pin and clevis type hinge in the middle that allows the column to tilt. Pic from https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/ignition-actuator-replacement-on-an-85-w-tilt.70454/ Edit to clarify where the screenshot is from.

Yes, it's a 302. It has hydraulic lifters. I'm saying that since you can run an older API spec the extra antiwear additives won't hurt expensive emissions components. I don't know what firing order the cam has but the 302's went to 13726548 like the 351 sometime in the early 80's. Marine engines are a thing onto themselves.... If you want a synthetic with a high detergent package then maybe something like Rotella T6 is a better choice for you?