ArdWrknTrk

Hey David, What year steering box do you have a line on? Gary has the chart with pitman arm part numbers (NOT the engineering number ON a part!) Under tie rods and drag links.... Perhaps this would help?

TTB trucks do that crazy camber thing when you back them up. There's no avoiding it. Ask Bill, Gary or any of us that have decades with these trucks. I'd be very reluctant to mess with camber if the truck drives well and isn't badly scalloping tires.

I've had trouble with thick grease in winter. But I didn't use mobil-1 synthetic like Gary did. I'd be more inclined towards a thixotropic grease like '00' grease from Stens, Oregon or John Deere.. This is what most people use in snowblowers. I have Cable Life and a pressure luber from way back when motorcycles had clutch and brake cables, so that's what I use.

Chris, there's been some discussion in another thread about auto to manual driven speedo gears. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Speedo-cable-driven-gear-color-code-tp138631.html Gary put up a chart but obviously it wouldn't include a Zf, and mine is 4x4 so my speedo drive remained in the TC. It would definitely help if you could determine the colour of the drive gear. Sounds like a successful trip with reasonable milage depending on your rear ratio.

Dennis Carpenter is the only one I know that has the original tooling and authorization/license to reproduce Ford parts. Shame they don't offer a Bullnose tailgate. (I thought at one point they had NOS for sale) The smooth stamped repop tailgates are just too thin. At least you live in the best part of the country to turn up a solid survivor. If you have garbage fuel be aware there is a filter element in the multifunction fuel reservoir on the driver's side frame rail. (I'm sure you know this, but you didn't mention it)

Gary, he's in New Mexico (the land of enchantment) and chili peppers.. (red or green)

Welcome Vern! We love these story's with family history going back to new. While it's a bummer that your valves stuck, with 250k on it maybe it's time for a refresh? If you have specific questions it's probably best to address them in the main forum. If you want to document your journey with the truck perhaps start a 'Projects' thread. I see from your username and email you're a connoisseur of fine British motorbikes..

Have a look at this page from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard: https://shop.broncograveyard.com/F250-F350-4wd-Steering-Link/products/232/ They have inner, outer, center/drag & sleeves for '80-'85 250/350 TTB. ***in stock*** They also offer a complete 'kit' 32905. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-85-F250-F350-Steering-Rod-Kit/productinfo/32905/ I can't say what brand, but Jeff's is very knowledgeable about suspension (that's where they started) I don't think they sell bad parts. I've bought Dana/Spicer, Eaton and Moog from them before. And they actually answer their phone if you have questions.... (link to kit directly)

Congratulations Jeff! Your odometer seems right on the money.

Thanks Scott! That's a very well written tutorial. The extra input to 5&9 looks ideal for Tom. (and good for me to learn more about the 80-86 fuse panel)

Scott, your link takes me to a thread about judging the 2023 show... Tom, Id seriously consider using an add-a-circuit, but I have an '87 truck and my fuse panel is different. Much cleaner and easier than messing with wires at the switch. Fuse #9 controls the blower motor in your '85 and is only powered in run. Edit: Fuse 15 & 18 also seem to be powered only in run. These are fuel selector and seatbelt warning/fuel pump control.

I don't know about that... I know what years and models came with a D50, but looking at RA there aren't too many options and if you go to the Moog page they have nothing but a sleeve.

You might try looking for applications 1984 F-350. You can be guaranteed that's a D50 axle because the 350 didn't get a solid axle until '85. Otherwise you need to look exclusively at. F-250 supercab applications to be sure it's a D50.

If you're going to pull the sender test the gauge action across full motion. A new float is cheap. You can even get them in brass. I've not had luck with 'new'' senders, but Carter is better than the ones I've got from LMC & Spectra so far. Seat looks great BTW!

TRW used to manufacturer for OEM's. Their quality was always good, but I can't speak for today. Once these icons of industry are swallowed by capital investment groups al lot of them fall off a cliff.

$6 a piece is still pretty good. Hopefully the quality is there once you have them in your hands.

It's been a long time since I've been in that game. I guess I just have to accept that it's a whole new world out there, you can't get service like that anymore.. Billy's shop closed out nearly 20 years ago.. Spring and drive line shops are few and specialized today.

I think you mean diameter.... unless your axle is 8 1/2" around. It's a U-bolt... does it have to be 10x1.5 pitch? 4 1/4 x 3/8 is only .025 thinner and .040 narrower. Probably lots easier to fab or find. Any off-road or spring shop would bend those up on the spot.

It looks to me that if you want power only in run you need to use 16 (ignition) 37 (power) + 296, 297 are connected in Accy, Off, Run and Lock. The only one exclusive to power (37) in the 'Run' position is going to be #16

I certainly didn't mean to disparage the company, boom operator or even the ready-mix driver. "Stuff" happens. The mark of professionalism is how you've recovered and made the best of the hand you were dealt. I was just saying pours are pressure enough, and then something -not ideal- occurs..... and then the batch isn't retarded enough or made with chilled water... and then the skies open up, the trenches start filling, the mixer gets stuck in the mud... Whatever (I have stories!!!) I'm reminded of 'The Perfect Storm' and many other words/acronyms not appropriate for this forum. Here's hoping the piers and block go more smoothly.

What a heroic effort to salvage what you could of a bad situation! Hot loads and broken pumps are bad situations. I've experienced more of both than I care to think about, but to compound them??? All I can say is you certainly made the best of it. Sorry you had to go through that.

The new/old cluster looks great Jeff! Just finding one is a big score. You probably should have included a pic of the old one just to show the improvement.

Winter lubrication often means '00' grease. The preferred lube for snowblowers and other winter equipment. The hubs don't see constant rotation.

Yes, of course! Power and efficiency is the whole point of vacuum advance

I think you went into one of you eight page micro analysis when you prepped a bunch of parts for Big Blue (but I'm not going to wade through 500 pages to find it on my phone) Scott spells it out pretty well!