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Ahhhh, I didn't understand from your post that the bearings were bad. Just that "the blower motor went out". Then that you cut the connector off and couldn't get the new motor to work either.... This clicked in my head that it was not the blower, but something else (and that "else" can often be the resistor fuse, because people don't even know it's there!)

Hose... It does, as long as you have stock height suspension. Why not just get standard made up 3/16" brake lines from that block to the wheel cylinders? They aren't more costly than your coupler. Though I don't know offhand the adapter size you need for the drivers side. Shouldn't be difficult for the parts store to match it to the junction block....

Kind of «sorry about your red choice, not too late to change it for blue». Now I'm really laughing, about my poor English understanding! Adam, sorry for the tailgate damage! Not poor English understanding. You must not have seen the 'in reply to...' Your truck looks fantastic Jeff! I think the LCR/WW tu-tone fits Big Brother perfect.

Sometimes there's not the perfect smiley.... or I interpreted it the wrong way. I suppose one can blush out of more than embarrassment. 💡

I certainly didn't mean that in any derogatory way, Gary. Sharing these little pearls of wisdom is what you do best!

Jim, thanks for . 🤪 I was certainly not wide awake this morning, when I modified the inverter ground source. Working from the side of the truck, I mistakenly thought that there were more than one wire attached to this pole. It’s a simple washer… Conclusion, my starter relay is for the starter only. Gentlemen, I apologize for this confusion. It's cool You had it right and didn't even know it! 💡 Gary often posts in the morning, saying he's ruminating on his second cup of coffee before going out to the garage. You can't fault the wisdom of the elders....

not really a patch, the issue stems from me trying to bleed the brakes but not being able to because of seized bleed screws, so that led to replacing the rear cylunders and front calipers, but now has let to not being able to remove the rear brake line from the rear cylinders, and with the help above i fear that just trying to see if the brakes work im gonna have to find a part that i cant get replaced and ect ect. honestly im ready to push this truck into the pond by my house. the coupler would just let me make a short fix to get new cylunders in fast, and then later when or if i can even get the truck through inspection replace it correctly. kinda of a last ditch effort. do i even need rear brakes? could i just not have them? How would this coupling help you with seized nuts on the rear wheel cylinders? You're replacing the cylinders. Take a torch to the fittings and get them loose. There will be all new fluid anyway... Brakes are one of those things that you have to consider that everything is bad. At least when something goes right it's a positive! Sorry you feel frustrated. I don't mean to be a downer. Only trying to give you a heads up. Think how grateful the truck is for your attention to detail

Unfortunately my means of interacting with this forum is an old Android phone. Screwing around with screenshots involves opening multiple tabs, scrolling those multiple pages of the '80 EVTM, holding power and volume down, then going back up a level to reach the tab I'm posting in (that's IF my post doesn't drop into the void while navigating multiple pages) then clicking insert image, my files, selecting the screenshot and uploading it into my post. It is MUCH easier to long hold and open the EVTM jpg, copy and paste the jpg's URL into my post. The ammeter and 1G charge circuits don't appear much different to me across years except a few pins of no consequence on the flex.

Hey Jim, Yes, Rocketman is quite explicit about the key on source. On the 80 EVTM could simply take a screen shot—easy on the mac—Shift>cmd>4 then drag the area with a mouse…instant snapshot. I have a key on under the dash just sitting there—I think for radio or maybe a clock???? I will get the color of wire today to figure out what it is today. I planned on snipping the connector end and transferring to deutch connector today. Also, gonna try to retrieve my broken ammeter today as well. The only thing I hate to do is cut into that new printed circuit. Why not shrink tube part of the post, and then cover in a rubber spacer with nylon washer? Headliner comes off today as well. Do NOT cut your flex circuit. I'm not sure where you got that advice. Install exactly as the old ammeter and use the existing wires from under the hood. Unpin the R/O & Y/LG ammeter wires at the 610 connector by the shunt near the starter relay on the right inner fender (shown as either side of the ammeter in the schematic above) Gary has power going to the meter all the time and uses a relay to pull it to ground. ..... he still needs an unspecified key on to trigger that relay) I'm saying to take the shunt connections and make one ground and the other key on (and accy) from the blower motor connector, which is close by. This avoids the worst of the dash wiring resistance. I don't know what wire you are considering, but my "logic" still holds. Edit: clock has power all the time (obviously) It could be radio, if you don't have one. I'm not intimately familiar with the 1980 dash wiring but you should be able to identify it by color code.

Gary, even with your relay to ground setup you still need a source of key on power... To avoid the relay you could unpin 654 from C610 and take it directly to ground. Unpin 65 from that connector and tap the blower motor feed (181at C603) which is a key on 30A fused BR/OR wire. This would put the revised voltmeter on a low resistance circuit, before any appreciable load. Voltmeters take barely anything to budge the needle. This second schematic is from the '81 EVTM (and I know there are some flex circuit differences) but the '80 manual format won't let me cut & paste the image.

Gary, we architects can fortunately rely on engineers for these trivial mechanical and electrical questions. But some if us probably have a bit of engineering genes, and are interested to understand the basics (no more, thanks). That’s my case. So, I sketched a simplistic diagram and now understand that I was seeing the Starter ground. It’s a chance that the light tester has a good resistance, otherwise jumping the Relay could have start the engine. More seriously, I am wondering why there is not uniquely the starter circuit linked to this Relay pole. What other circuits have to run only when the Relay trigger is closed? Jeff, your diagram has the fusible links backwards. The photo shows them on the battery positive lug of the relay (as they should be!)

Jeff, are you laughing at Adam's damaged tailgate??

Really sorry to see that. 😖 Hopefully it's not too hard to put right again.

We (as a community) are all here to see others succeed no matter how large or small the project. Having an inverter will allow you to literally take the show on the road. If you're still concerned about your alternator output and want to "keep it stock" with a 1G I posted a link to the factory available 70-100A 1G alternator from Rockauto earlier today. "What alternator is this?" Looking forward to see it up and running! (edit link to thread)

I don't think I've ever seen a relay wired like that. The red wire is hot all the time off the battery, and the black wire will be hot when the relay is triggered...

I understand that it may be rated for it but I will never use a compression fitting in a brake line. Not sure which line you want to patch but a coil of nicopp tube is not expensive or difficult to work with.

Nice! Good job Jeff.

Thanks for joining Royce! Glad to hear you've resurrected your truck. Please start a thread in the main forum if there's some way we can help.

I'm not sure how that works with your truck. The blower motor has power in run. The ground side of the motor goes to the resistor block, and from there power out of the three coils goes to the climate speed control in the dash, which selects which resistor to ground. It's good practice to remove/inspect the resistor block on occasion to make sure there's no tinder caught up in it. If you have a MM there's not much challenge to see how the fuse feeds all the coils. Check for continuity across the fuse, and if you like you can check the resistance of each coil (but they will all seem low because you're not loading them enough to glow)

Hey Jim, Does the gauge go right back in to the same spot in the dash without modification/Wire modification/etc.? This looks highly doable for me, and I am inclined. Thank you! It's your exact same old gauge with a new movement. It fits like new, but you do need to move some wires around from the ammeter shunt under the hood. Gary has done this and there a number of threads. Also I believe there is an article under 'Bullnose Upgrades ' in the drop-down menu at the top left of the page. I haven't done it because I have a Bricknose (which came with a voltmeter) but the conversion doesn't seem difficult, in fact it doesn't need to be as involved as Gary makes it out to be. You really just need a source of 'key on' power.

Well that looks just amazing! You seem to have perfect weather. A transformation like that took a lot of skill and preparation. Congratulations on your efforts.

Glad I can help. Sorry I misread your F as an E at first.... I'm working from a phone.

Have you considered having your ammeter converted to an F10080V voltmeter by Rocketman Innovations? Bob only uses the needle, dial and case. He offers stud replacement at $5 with one of his conversions. Conversion is $50 https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all

Those look great! I was really happy when I used the HIPO paint on my new cluster.

It IS an OEM alternator, that's why I show all the Ford engineering numbers it crosses to. The 70 before the Ford number suggests it's a 70-100A alternator with plug instead of stud for the regulator wire. Do you have AC? Gates 70-100A W/O AC #7417 Gates 70-100A W AC #7430 According to RA..... 🙄 These numbers can easily be cross referenced to other manufacturers.