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I like the CAD (cardboard aided design) model! That looks very handy for those without a console or the seat mounted Ranger cupholder like Shaun has. Would definitely be cool if you could post a scaled pattern.

Well, that's how Gary and I feel. (along with other forum members like Cory and John on their 150's) But as I said, you need the residual pressure valve, and while the ones that U-Haul offered had this valve the ones I see on RA don't seem to.... I think I need to cross the Motorcraft number or at least find the stupid check valve before I can recommend parts swapping. Edit: That residual pressure valve is E7TZ-2C161-B, and over $50 by itself!!! That's why I'm so determined to find a master that includes it.

I see now that the early cast iron master cylinders break at 8500. This is so Ford can include 8,600 gvw trucks .under federal guidelines. If you look at the later (87-93) masters with aluminum housings and plastic reservoirs the break moves down to exclude "light" 250's. I realize all this pedantry may be confusing but it really matters when you start swapping parts to get a 'factory upgrade'

Yep. Usually the break is o/u 7,000 lbs. This is the difference between the "light duty" (15/16)250 and the heavier trucks with a bigger (1 1/16") master cylinder bore. I don't see any M/C on Rockauto with the valve in place. Do you know the width of your rear brake shoes? If it's a 250 I assume they're 2 1/2" but I'd .want to know.

As I said above, I can't find those master cylinders right now on U-haul's storefront. I did post link in the marketplace thread back around Christmas. Maybe they are all sold? I'm certainly not the IDI expert. Perhaps Gary can hail Jonathan to this thread? I know he prefers Beru to the Motorcraft glow plugs but I don't know where he gets them or what he does about a crapped out glow plug controller.

Your's came with the residual pressure check valve in the rear port, correct? (because that's important, and you have to swap the lines front to back) I just did a quick check of U-haul's storefront and didn't see it in the first 100 pages. 🙄 I hate to give out of date information....

I'd think if there's enough fluid to splash out the port in the bottom isn't sucking air. You're right. If the rust isn't too bad you can file the master cylinder flat and bend the bail if the lid isn't tight. If I was going to replace it, I'd buy the $58 later ('87 up) MC from U-Haul on eBay and never have to deal with rust again. Hopefully it isn't leaking out the back into the booster.

I didn't realize the fill tube came with the neck. (not that way from Ford) Parts from LMC? Or filler necks dot com?

Gary, if he isn't getting vacuum the pedal would be hard, not soft and going to the floor. Adjusting the drums in back is a good place to start. I would check for ballooning rubber lines or maybe the master cylinder bypassing. Fully functional brakes come even before an engine that runs (IMHO)

I think you will need the smooth grey plastic inner 'fill' hose as well. Not sure if the corrugated vent hose from an '80-'86 truck will flow or even fit an '87^ filler neck. Please let us know how it goes.

Rene, I suspect your squeaking noise is a driveshaft universal joint. If you can get the rear wheels in the air with the parking brake off and the transmission in neutral (so nothing is binding) you might check each joint for any motion between the two sections. Yes, I understand that you have a funky double cardan joint at the transfer case. Otherwise a squeak at road speed could be a brake or wheel bearing, but most often a dry or worn universal joint.

You might want to check that your pump is delivering a quart every 15 seconds to the carb (like the TSB says) Even if it is rated at 60 gph I have my doubts that it can pull that through the in tank pumps. Electric pumps are not so good at pulling liquid to get a prime. That's why any factory system has them in the bottom of the tank, where they are always full, and cooled by the liquid they are submerged in.

But the fuel pumps in the tanks are still there, right? And if they are, fuel should reach the carb in under eight seconds, with an additional quart every 15 seconds. If that's working there's no way you're running out of fuel. If you could sketch up how you have wired your relay and two 3 port valves I'd be interested to see that. The six port Pollak valve with wiring pigtail is only ~$75- 80 on eBay last I checked. Then you could get rid of the switch, "extra" pump and relay. Go back to how the system is supposed to operate.

I think you need to look at the fusible links connected to the starter relay on the inside fender. ALL of these belong on the same post with the battery + cable. Sometimes these can melt inside the insulation jacket (this is how they're supposed to work!)

Chris, You might want to look at the hot fuel documentation Gary has here on the site. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/460-fuel-systems.html Consider this.. Minimum rated delivery for a 460 fuel pump is a gallon a minute. (See pg 37 of the TSB. Also note this TSB describes the cross flow problem I mentioned) A 3/8" fuel line has an internal volume of .73 fl oz per foot. So in round numbers if you flow one gallon a minute and there were 20' between tank and carb (.75 x 20=15 oz) 128oz/15 = 8ish 60sec /8 = 7.5 seconds for fuel to reach from tank to carb. That constant circulation of cool fuel from the tank is what keeps vapor lock from being able to occur (hence "Hot Fuel Handling") If your fuel pump is working, the only way I can fathom that your truck is running out of fuel is if the screen in the vapor separator/return bypass (the little 'T' fuel line fitting near the carb) is completely clogged. Part #s are: E3TZ 9N176B (blue dot, .040) E3TZ 9N176A (red dot, .060) EOTZ 9N176B (white dot, .090) obsolete I hope this helps! 🙂

I have to admit I am wrong about the FDM cross flow TSB. That was for later generation trucks like mine with FDM's in the tanks. My apologies for trying to offer bad information!

I think you need to look at fuselink 'T' because the pumps should be running when cranking regardless of the oil pressure and inertia switch when the key is in the 'start' position. I can say with authority that your carb is not running out of fuel within seconds of starting.

I have an AVS 650 that used to live on my truck (until the accelerator piston needed changing) There should be enough fuel in the bowls to idle for between a minute or two. (ask me how I know! 😉) The cross flow issue has nothing to do with how the lines are connected (just the switch valve) It is a documented issue and there is a 'factory' fix... I will try to look*** this up just to put it out there.... If you use a late model tank you need to modify the locating tabs, or the slots in the sender/pump cap to make the float hang in the correct position and the fuel nipples point the right way. I am running 85-86 senders in my '87 tanks. Because the one year wonder '87 with mechanical pickup/senders are completely unavailable NOS or aftermarket. I understood what you meant about the primer switch or button. Think about how much fun it is for me when I have to crank the engine over to pull fuel from the tank to the carb with just a mechanical pump.... 😁 If you think it may be losing power to the pump you might jump out the oil pressure sender and just watch the fuel pump relay close. These Hot Fuel systems changed a couple of times over the years. I need to do some digging If I want to address your specific issue.

You can read Daniel's musings on old (German) Hella v/s the newer stuff coming out of the CCP. But, yeah. If I were going to buy one today I'd probably go this route.

Larry, you can tell the difference from a factory slider because the factory one goes all the way into the gasket (groove is maybe 9/16"?) Aftermarket sliders (like my CRL) have a flange that fits the stock single glazed gasket.

He would know the difference about a week after he installed the latch bars! I can see why you'd want to do it 'in house' I can't imagine how valuable I've found that thing over the years since I changed it out.

There's this Hella branded one on eBay. It's almost exactly 1/3 the cost of Daniel's

Perhaps I'm wrong. I know the 40A relay in my little box has bigger prongs.

That looks like a standard 'Bosch' relay with 87A (NC) Be aware that ones for more than 30A will come with larger 30 & 87 spades.

Gary, you're not going to send him that crappy plastic latch (are you?!? ) CRL Dvl2 is under $10 and you can Amazon Prime it there if they are in your addresses.... 💡 Silicone will be fine. Thoroughly clean with isopropyl alcohol first, and make sure it doesn't get squished into the tracks...