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I modified my harness when I installed the little PDC box a few years back. So high and low are fused and relayed in there (regular cube relays and the same fuses as the truck) IIRC at first I just spliced inline ATC fuse holders in place of those brass ring terminals

I'm not trying to spend his money... You asked who would have the features and quality you want.... Daniel Stern's relay harness @ $99 is still $50 less than the 'Painful' "kit"! I'm sure the breaker upgrade would only be the cost differential between them and fuse holders.

I'd like a plug to go into the factory harness, and most do that. But I'd also like an auto-reset circuit breaker so you won't be left in the dark with a temp fault. Having said that, I guess two fuses are better than one since maybe the fault will be with either the high or low beam wiring and you at least have the other. Plus I'd like standard Bosch relays. So far all of the ones appear to have proprietary relays. Here's what I've found, and this is for my SiL/tjmac so I'm just doing the research. LMC: $24.95 36-3580-F Don’t see a fuse in this on, much less a circuit breaker Amazon: $20 Don’t particularly like this one as it has a fuse, not a circuit breaker, and a single fuse at that Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard: $32 Looks like a single fuse although it is hard to tell. And those may be non-standard relays. These aren't 'proprietary' relays. They are just a modern standard form factor. I have the LMC version, and while I wouldn't say it's "top shelf" it's been getting the job done for a LONG time. I had one relay go bad from rust (because I mounted them sideways ) But I just swapped high for low and kept driving. I bought a pair of replacements and the spare lives in my glovebox. Mine are individually fused, but I could see getting auto reset breakers.

Of course Daniel Stern offers relay harnesses , basic or custom.

What features are you looking for Gary?

Fuel can never 'drain back' out of the float bowl. You just need to start your truck once a week. (or use the priming pump, I guess...?) Be aware that the '87 on fuel tanks have a different size collar in the fuel neck and the vent hose (now fill hose) is not quite the same. I'm sure it's something you can work out, but it's better to know ahead of time. Are you sure you don't have a cross return situation where one tank will fill the other? Ford instituted a retrofit of a pair of check valves to fix that. Gary probably has the TSB with part numbers.

. I was under the impression that Ford had changed the 302 firing order by '86? I know my '85 HO had the later cam. Anyway, its great that you've found a good mechanic!

I'm glad to hear it's working for you Charles. Hope your new rear tank swaps in just as well.

I think it certainly is for a non-structural patch like a wheel arch or cab corner.

Looks like a good repair, and you won't have any problems with water in the seam! If you have compressed air, a cheap punch and flange tool will set the patch flush with the rest of the body panel. This won't work everywhere but can be very helpful keeping the lines straight. A few companies (Eastwood?) that offer a pair of locking pliers with jaws that will joggle the panel too, but these are painfully slow .

Welcome TJ! Sounds more like an archeology expedition than a vehicle purchase. You've got the basics covered as your sig shows, and if Gary thinks it's solid and serviceable enough to purchase it should serve well.

That seems reasonable. Hopefully not a money pit, and you will have it on the road soon.

Gary has a page for that. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speedometer-gears-cables--sensors.html

Welcome Dan! So it's still a pickup frame and single rear axle with spacers or something?

Additionally, 40A seems to be the smallest type III surface mount breakers available. Disregard the above 60A models! It appears they are popular for trolling motors. I like the style with a 'test' button so you can disable the circuit if need be.

Koolatron says 12V-5A-DC. Yep, and Big Bro being a Crew Cab, chances are that I'll locate the little inverter somewhere on the back seat, maybe behind it. So the bigger wire running from the battery would be the best? You're absolutely right. My only concern is that I want to "hide" as much as possible the modern upgrades I make to Big Bro (Jim, you well know my "as stock as possible" obsession ). If a modern voltmeter that mimics the OEM one exists, I buy and install it in the cluster right now, no matter (or, well, almost) the price. Okay, so add another 5A to the load on the alternator, as I expect a cooler will be running for extended periods, unlike a cigarette lighter which is typically drawing for maybe 15 seconds? Any of the 3G conversion threads have links to the Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations ammeter conversion. He only works on original Ford meters but you could pull one from a junkyard or eBay and have that one refurbished. You want the F100-80V. It's $50 with a couple of weeks turnaround. https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all I don't know about any added shipping to Canada. Gary could better tell you how well the modified ammeter works. He might even have a spare that you could figure out the round robin to get an exchanged one in your hands. If you intend to locate the inverter in the back seat you need to count the distance both ways, because electrons 'run' all the way back to ground. Before, I had only considered that the wire might be 10' long and that 10Ga.+ XT60 would be fine for that. I also need to consider that you're never likely to max out a 500W inverter for what you intend. (I chose 500 because that seems to be a sweet spot where there seem to be lots of models and features available) A smaller 400W inverter should be fine with 10Ga. wire. The chart shows 36A @ 25' and 400W is less than that. There seem to be a few that are pure sine wave and have a couple of USB ports for charging things like phones and drones as well as the usual 2x NEMA 5-15R sockets.

I only meant to say that the roughness seems to occur as the torque converter starts to load the engine. Definitely understand what you say about multiple variables. I also disagree with your carburetor guy being dismissive of EGR. It has its purpose and was perhaps the only solution available to the auto industry at the time. Taking it out of the equation (for testing) could prove helpful. I don't really know if this stumble is due to fuel mixture, timing, weak spark or whatever...

Welcome! Hope you find all the answers you're looking for.

I'm sorry, I was just trying to be helpful. Some members (like Gary) have a huge amount of posts, and the search function here on the forum unfortunately doesn't work well. Wading through hundreds of pages can make my eyes glaze over. If Chad's discussion about using braided lines isn't the sort of thing you were looking for perhaps we can find other threads?

Jeff, Daniel Stern used to feature Cibie and Marchal lamps and had extensive documentation about the French selective yellow headlamp regulation that was in effect for much of the middle 20th C. (1938 - 1993) I imagine he has to speak French to do business with them and read all those research papers/regulations. I don't think you intend to overload your alternator or that a laptop or drone battery would be too much. But I also don't know how much power a cooler draws. Blower and wipers can eat a bunch of watts and you have the ignition on top of that. AC doesn't add any electrical load beyond the compressor's magnetic clutch. Just pointing out that by installing an inverter you make it possible to over load/heat the 1G. Maybe better to fuse the inverter at 40A which aligns a little below 500W @ 12V (41.666 A*) I still wouldn't go any smaller on the wires. Low voltage has a lot of resistance as runs get longer. Do you have a voltmeter? If not, have you considered the Rocketman mod? (because I think it's much more telling of actual state of charge than the wonky ammeter that came stock) Forewarned is forearmed. Edit: A for V Sorry I didn't catch that when I first posted.

500W would absolutely max your alternator, but as Gary says you'll have a little in reserve with a decent battery (I've got a 1000A group 65) Some tutorials suggest only 1/2 rated output. 10 Ga. Is the pretty much the max you can reasonably fit in an XT 60 socket (100A surge) and should be fine as long as you don't want the inverter sitting in the back seat. Take note of the insulation temperature rating when you put wires in the engine bay. (I've become preferential to the fine strand copper, silicone jacketed stuff the RC guys are using) https://a.co/d/3CfdoX7 60A automotive/marine breaker, surface mount, push to trip, manual reset, as close to the battery as I could get (like under the starter relay) Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Surface-Circuit-Breaker-Manual/dp/B092BB6761?th=1 https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46921/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-184060F-01-1-Surface-Mount/

I'm on Mac. All my office is too. iPhones, iPads, iMacs, MacMinis, MacBooks, iGadgets, name it. I keep old G4, old PoweMac, old Quadra 700, just in case I have to access old softwares or files requiring old technology and chips (it happens, each 3-4 years). Even a vintage Macintosh SE30 is running 24/7 the black&white Flying Toasters screen saver in my office meeting room, just for fun. If instead buying Macs since 1989 I have bought Apple's stock shares, I would be rich right now... Ok, back to the thread... I plan to charge various little things. For example, charging my drone batteries. My DSLR camera batteries. And so on. So, buying a compatible 12V charger for each of these various techno tools would be expansive, and complicated. A little inverter would be much simpler and flexible for my hypothetical road trip. I won't need a lot of power, and I wanna be sure to stay respectful to my 1G capacity. Ideally, this inverter would be connected directly to the battery poles, in order to leave the 12V dash lighter plug free, for my 12V-5A-DC Koolatron travel cooler. Well you don't say where you would put your inverter but if I wanted to use a 500W inverter in my truck I would probably run a cable up the passenger side fender, fused/breaker somewhere along there and pull it through the grommet where the HVAC wires and vacuum lines come through. Then have enough coiled in the glove box to reach the floor or seat(s) Terminate in an XT60 plug and wire an XT60 pigtail to the inverter. The cable will remain out of sight and fairly protected when not in use. When choosing pay attention to the inverter housing and be certain to get one that is pure sine wave (warning above^^^) I hope you have an enjoyable road trip! 😉

Im very much a shadetree mechanic and have never liked driving automatics (except in stop & go traffic) If it were a drag car with a C6 bogging out of the hole I would say change the converter for one with a higher stall, but this is a street vehicle with an AOD so linkage adjustment is critical to longevity and I wouldn't mess with adjustment. .... Mostly because I know I could do more harm than good. It might be worth checking the TV rod for proper adjustment. I can only assume that it's been off and on a bunch of times if you've been working on the carburetor. If I'm way off base hopefully someone like Bill will correct me.

Honestly, to me that seems like it's just the convertor starting to load the engine. While the engine may become a little 'rough' it's ultimately a carbureted engine hobbled by 39 year old emissions standards. Do you actually drive it that way? I don't want to sound dismissive, I'm just trying to understand. 🙂

If you want some additional cooling cut off the top of the passenger side loop and install a small finned cooler like the Derale 13213 for ~$30 That will keep it up out of the way of most road debris and you won't have to go crazy re-plumbing the whole system.