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Not "stand by" without load, the heat from the coils or IGBT's when it actually has to put out the rated watts. That heat comes from somewhere, and that 'somewhere' is the lame alternator. You're an engineer... I'm sure you can understand this. Yes, if all Jeff needs is 120W to run a laptop that's one thing. But that doesn't address the title of this thread.

Be mindful Gary that inverters get hot and that heat has to come from somewhere, even though it doesn't end up as wattage on the back end. Fortunately IGBT are far more efficient than the transformer style inverters of old. I'm just pointing out that there are efficiency losses beyond the load, and you would have to look at documentation specific to the inverter you purchase to know exactly what they are.

If you click on their avatar you can see all posts in reverse chronological order. Here, I did some legwork for you, https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Making-your-own-lines-td123149.html#a123183

I'm pretty sure Chad/Little Beefy has swapped over to braided lines with AN fittings. You might look back through his posts.

Welcome Cody! It's not often we get a new member who already has a Bullnose collection. 😁

Well Gary has some information here on the site. Perhaps Bill Vose will bless us with some of his infinite carb wisdom? (I'll ping him) I know the Holley on my truck calls for 0.015" gap.

Actuator arm to diaphragm plunger. Let me see if I can find a diagram outlining this (though it may not be specific to your California emissions carb.

I'm not too well versed in Cali spec feedback carbs. I certainly don't want to doubt "the carb shop guy" It is his trade after all. There should be a spec for gap if you have a set of feeler gauges.

With 3.54's and 1:1 in 4th you should easily reach 60 mph. The 300 is more torque than top end but when my truck had a T-19 (same 1:1) and a much higher ratio rear I recall being around 3,000 at 65. There is a calculator linked on this site.

Daniel Stern lighting consultancy. Mr* Stern offers a LOT of information on his site.

I'd assume your truck has 4.10's? What rpm are you turning on the highway? Are these stock 235/85 R-16 tires?

I use Loctite PST on all bolts in the water pump and timing case. It is anaerobic sealant but not like Loctite in the conventional sense. It is used for stainless fittings and flange bolts in the chemical and petroleum industries. Prevents galling and leaks up to thousands of pounds, It does not increase breakaway torque. I can attest it works great it this application.

Nice score Shaun! I suppose it's better than JB Weld or painting the inside with Glyptal.

Honestly it looks pretty good! It's really loose when the chain eats a hole in the housing! At least you don't have a pickup full of shredded nylon like an earlier truck. The fuel pump eccentric has nothing to do with balance but you need something to take its place when you go back with a new timing set. I won't tell you what happens when the retaining bolt bottoms out in the cam before the gear is tight.

Are you sure the check ball is properly in place. Do you see a squirt of gas if you cycle the throttle lever by hand?

It sounds to me like your accelerator pump needs adjustment/tuning.

Happy you finally got it tight! That's a heck of a predicament to be in...

Welcome Todd! We love stories like this.

doh! I didn't even look at which side had air supplied. Additionally, you want to listen for where the air is leaking (intake, exhaust or crankcase) this tells you where the pressure is leaking. Gary, have you any thoughts on why the right side rockers are so crusty?

I don't really believe I've ever seen leakdowns below 4-5%, and that would be considered 'great!' Consider that the PCV is pulling fresh filtered air into the DS valve cover and all the crankcase blow-by up into the passenger side VC. I can't say this is the reason you have what you observe but it is plausible (to me) Hopefully others will chime in with what they've seen.

Well, I'm glad to hear they've stepped up! I remember when they first came on the scene. It's difficult to get out in front of a bad reputation, no matter how good your products have become.

File too big for the forum software. This is very interesting! Though I messed with more Mustangs than trucks back in the '80's . Can you post a picture of the catch code of your ECU? Either my eyes are shot or the engineering number shows E8TF-12A650-A (maybe both! 😄)

Mat, he just did.. And good looking out for your progeny. Hopefully your son will show his new engine a little more consideration.

And yet when I do a search the first hit is this: https://www.gmt400.com/threads/long-term-lower-ball-joint-test-moog-vs-mevotech.42171/ I used all Moog when I had my front axle and steering redone last March. Also note that they have different lines of parts. I hope it holds up. There's been a LOT of discussion about Chinese metallurgy and quality control. (look at Rene's cam and lifter thread going on right now) All the big manufacturers source their parts overseas. Timken, SKF, Moog, TRW, whatever.. Everything is made to a price point. In a perfect world I'd buy Dana/Spicer drive line, steering and suspension components. Unfortunately they are hard to find and expensive compared to the competition.

I've been in a few '85 ecm's and have always found three capacitors. 1) 67V 3.3uF 2) 10V 47uF Higher voltage is fine (probably better) but the farad's need to be right Be sure you install them in the correct polarity. Look for the stripe on the side and match to the position of ones you remove. (I find it always helps to take pictures before doing anything) Conformal coating comes off with a Q-tip wet with isopropyl alcohol or acetone.