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Gary, EGR would make it 'rich' (provide less oxygen) but if too much exhaust entered -when exhaust pressure increased- it could be enough to make it so the charge couldn't burn. Perhaps there are two problems...

If welding would distort the case you could use green (wicking) Loctite on the crack or paint the inside with Glyptal. This is what we used to do with porous or cracked Brit-bike cases

Maybe I missed it but how do you intend to connect a 2wd van transmission to your Jeep transfer case?

EGR shouldn't have any effect at idle, unless the valve is stuck and leaking. Where did you set your timing with the SPOUT removed? Have you considered that your exhaust is plugged?

I do believe the 4.9 alternator bracket best fits an 8.25" C-C mounted 3G. I don't own a 300 but there are a number of others here on the forum who do, and have 'upgraded' to a 3G. That would not be this (7") one for the Windsor motors.

You don't need a regulator. The 3G is internally regulated. 3G's never came with a V-belt pulley (they started in the '90's) but you can swap your existing pulley right on to the 17mm shaft. In some cases you need a thin washer. 5/8" usually fits.

Steve, can you support the transmission with a floor jack? At least until you get the assembly far enough forward to re-balance your chain from the engine crane?

It's hard to imagine that a new alternator comes with a bent tab, down in the socket. One would think that Bosch would check the connections as part of QC before they let it ship. Please let us know how it resolves, and if you can't straighten it out, how Rock Auto responds to a claim.

Dual tanks were installed in some early '70's Bronco's. They used a whole different frame/body/interior. Bullnose Bronco's have the rear window switch where P/U trucks have the tank selector. Due to the Bronco's shorter wheelbase Ford couldn't fit even the shortbed 16 gallon midship tank. The SMP FV1T is a cheap ($32 Amazon or Summit) universal valve that uses a single power + ground and wires the same as your truck. You'd need to snip off 674 Br/W and 57 Bk to replace them with ring terminals where ground would go to one of the mounting screws of the valve. Be very careful tightening the selector wire to the solenoid because the plastic housing will crack without warning. Good luck!

I never noticed that my old C2 was running hot? Certainly the Saginaw doesn't. They should be thoroughly warm just like any other hydraulic system.

Charles, I said before i don't know what LMC sells because I refuse to deal with their website. Gary even invited the head of LMC Ford parts to this conversation. I certainly have no idea what you purchased. SMP/Pollak do offer a functionally similar aftermarket valve but it has barbed fittings. I provided a Ford part number (E5TZ-9189-A) for the valve and a factory wiring diagram complete with circuit numbers and wire colors. The factory SPST switch at the climate control is fused 10A, as shown above. The fuel sender wiring doesn't pass through the valve. Again, as shown above The rest of the EVTM (diagnostic and testing manual) is available here on the site under Documentation/Electrical/EVTM's/ Sorry I don't have anything more to offer. Perhaps Dave or David are using some weird tank valves on their 300-6 trucks and can share what they've done?

Jeff, your arrow is pointing to the input shaft seal. If it were me I would pull the plastic rag joint shroud back up the shaft and thoroughly clean the area. Start the engine and observe for where it's coming from. Maybe have someone else turn the wheels while I watched closely for weeping.

You might want to check out Cory's/Rembrandt's threads. He has built a mild 302/5-speed '84 Flareside and swapped a '96 5.0/4R70W into a '52 chassis. Cory is a talented photographer and captures a good amount of details in those builds. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/My-1984-F150-2wd-Flareside-Project-quot-Blue-Mule-quot-td4515.html#a5587 https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Rembrant-s-new-non-Bullnose-project-td104258.html

I don't look too closely at my truck. Just treat it to timely maintenance and occasional system overhauls. As I get older and no longer have a garage or shop it's become a challenge to keep up. Behind the seat storage is really handy! (Gary's is outfitted like mission control! 😅) Unfortunately my last stereo 'upgrade' has a speaker box occupying that space, along with an amp on the floor under the seat. Be careful with that extinguisher. The powder inside gets compacted over time from vibration. There was a discussion about this, and not having it work when you need it most. So, what do you wish your truck was more capable of? Or what would you change just for kicks?

Okay, I've got it now. Not "fault". It's a feature for anyone with a mouse and cursor. Thank you! Now I can see the page with the radiator support "saddles" and nut clips.

I think it's another one of those things where I can't scroll over and the tab clicks as soon as I touch it, but idk..

Why can't I see that under Documentation/Cooling System/ ? I see fans, shrouds, radiators...

The way it mounts at the bottom. Post '85 radiators have a large semicircular boss that fits into a cup on either side of the radiator support.

Welcome! Always nice to see a clean title with an old truck like this. It certainly does look well cared for! Must have been a point of pride for the previous owner.

Much easier to heat or cool, depending on the season. Glad you can still enjoy your truck!

Butyl is very outdated. It smells and takes forever to cure. If I were going to bond a side window back into the track I think I'd use something like 3M Window Weld or their Auto Glass Urethane adhesive that comes in a caulk gun tube (around 10oz.) And id probably do it in place to be absolutely sure that it lines up and closes all the way. Other manufacturers/distributors sell about the same thing, so you might also have luck with C R Laurence or Henkel brands.

Glad you got it figured out! I'm sure the driving experience is a lot of more pleasant without the wind. The upturned lip (which is really the pinch weld between rocker and cab floor) unfortunately traps water from the drivers wet or snowy boots. When the moisture makes into the carpet or padding under a rubber mat it hangs around forever, doing it's damage.

. Maybe the ghost of is kicking and screaming as you try to evict him from Big Blue?

Interesting... But you hear it coming from the ductwork and not under hood. I have to wonder if the evaporator coil is somehow transmitting the noise.

Glad to find out it isn't the new compressor! Have you tried climate control 'fan' without the compressor on? It seems odd to be the sound would be in sync with engine rpm, but I guess it's possible.