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Gary has a complete tutorial, but I'm on my phone and at work.... On top of that you might do a search for threads mentioning SEM and plastic prep. Maybe I can look tonight

How's that Sony head unit working out for you? I suppose the shallow frame allows even more room for 'Mission Control' wiring up in the dash.

Even these ricers with stereos so loud that the body and trim rattles. That's a big reason that all police and fire apparatus around here have whooping bass speakers along with their sirens. Not sure why CT isn't on that list. My little brother is pretty knowledgeable about regulations, having 27 years on the PD. SO.... how much soundproofing do you have in your truck, Gary?

According to Gary's post C22 A is a type1 bumper 3/8 high with a 5/16 stem. I wish Auveco listed dimensions like the Ford catalog does. https://www.auveco.com/general-purpose/ford-rubber-bumpers-4258

Against the law to wear anything over or in the ear (except hearing aids)

Gary, if someday you come to drive in Quebec, just remember that it is strictly prohibited to drive while wearing headphones or earphones in both ears. Same fo bicycles. This is pretty common (at least here across the northeast)

Welcome! Your grandfather's truck still looks good. Great backstory and glad to see how much you care about it.

Welcome! The 1986 model year trucks usually start coming off the line in late September

The square hole in the steering pump bracket is there for you to use a breaker bar to hold tension on the belt while you tighten the adjuster bolt. Ratchet heads are typically too large to clear the pulley.

You don't want leafs in the front. Bronco/150 frames are completely different than 250/350 4x4 leaf spring trucks. If you want to go with a '78-'79 coil spring, disc brake, high pinion D44 it's going to be set up for coils. (and it will have 5 on 5.5) The only problem is that the front of the frame changed A LOT between '79 & '80 when this generation of truck was born. IDK about things like steering boxes, control arms, etc. If you have the ability to fab suspensions and radius arms then you might look at what it would take to make it work, or check a specialist like JBG. Edit: or get some ideas from the James Duff catalog who offer a 77.5-79 open knuckle D44 into a 1980+ Bronco/150 swap kit. There are threads and videos aplenty out there. I know very little about this kind of SAS.

Glad you had some good luck to close out the repair! Of course now you'll be able to hear some new troubling sound. (I suggest you turn up the radio)

1984 EVTM: https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-bronco-f150-350-electrical-vacuum-troubleshooting-manual.html There's also the Emissions Diagnosis & Engine Electronics supplement to the 1984 FSM. Seems like what you need.... https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-truck-engine-electronics-emissions-diagnosis-manual.html I can't vouch for this because I've never had to deal with EEC in a 100% compliance state like California, but Ralph has plenty of dealer experience so I'm sure he could tell you how worthwhile it could be.

No wires, and nothing fits in the 'peep sight's. It is the opposite side (square edge) that you use to set the timing. With the SPOUT unplugged. Your 2150 should have wires leading to a solenoid valve. This is what the ECM uses to dial in the mixture. If you want a book that covers your unique carburetor and emissions system I think you need a copy of the 1984 Factory Service Manual. Often you can find these in good condition on eBay, and I believe HiPo Parts offers them on CD. Some trouble shooting can be found in Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1984 Edit: strike that. Gary doesn't have a 1984 EVTM up on the site. But 1985 should serve. The 5.0 EFI was only available mid year. Unfortunately there never was a solid front axle found in this generation trucks. The F-350 started offering the Dana 60 in 1985, but it has 8 lug hubs and leaf springs, neither of which really work for you.

Seems like they didn't touch anything except setting the toe a little negative. I think you have bigger tires/rims and a little lift. It's like they don't really know how steering effects a vehicle and they just left it at stock settings. I imagine steering is a little slow and it wants to push.

You're doing fine, Ed! Hopefully you will soon have the correct carburetor and Chris can help you navigate some of the Cali emissions found on these trucks.

Unfortunately Rodknock purchased a valve intended for Chevy's with a single external pump. What he needed to buy was the much more expensive FV 11 which will switch power, sender, supply and return for two separate tank modules in a Ford Hot Fuel Handling system. What engine option do you have in your '86 150 Royce?

Did you even read Rene's opening post? He's descending some of the steepest mountain passes in the Swiss alps in a fully laden '80's Bronco with a C6. Miles and miles of downhill switchbacks... You spend half an hour or more riding the brakes There's a reason for signs that say 'Trucks use low gear' Rene should be in (1) or (2) but definitely not (D)

Right.... So the blower Techguy already has in his truck has been hacked in there by some P.O. Not surprising actually

Do you have an adjustable vacuum advance, Jeff? What is your base timing? And with the vacuum connected? Ideally you would back out a little advance by increasing spring pressure on the diaphragm. Instructions under documentation/electrical/ignition: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ignition.html

Yup, you can switch tanks at any time.

Open (spring side) in. Drive it flush with the case. Be sure to put a little lube or grease on the shaft and seal lips first, so it doesn't start out dry. Many would say to pack the spring in grease so it can't be knocked loose accidentally while driving the seal in. I've never had that happen.

Given the D8UZ part number I would say it was originally designed for a 1978 Bronco. 💡 Looks like E-series vans up into the '90's..... Of course it may fit many models made after that. You have both the Ford # and the Motorcraft MM-381 numbers to go by. I'm sorry. My parts manual is on CD and I don't have a functional optical drive to look at it.

Are you referring to this capped port? Either of the two in the carburetor flange above, or that port in the spacer should all be manifold vacuum. (I'd think) I know Big Brother isn't exactly as he rolled off the assembly line, and that trucks for the Canadian market differ a little from ours here in the US.

Welcome! It's unfortunate, but the feedback system is pretty much 'all or nothing'. EGR is actually good to have. It greatly increases the advance you can run without spark knock. Generally the sensors hold up, but the older distributor mounted TFI modules were known to fail from heat. We have a bunch of members from strict emissions states like California who must run their truck as it was delivered. They seem able to get the whole feedback system working. If you don't have restrictions like that and want to eliminate your computer/distributor/feedback carb/MAP sensor please consider offering them to another member that desperately needs them. Duraspark II was found on almost all of these 49 state trucks before 1984. Finding the correct wiring harness can be difficult and aftermarket kits are expensive and incomplete. The all in one HEI ignition is a fairly simple solution if you have some experience with older automotive electric systems and tuning.

Gary, noobie is lost. Sorry. You-Explain-Me. Hope this picture will help to determine what kind of vacuum source it is (ported or manifold). Assuming the location of the connection on the carb side, I suppose this is a “ported” source? Jeff, yes that port high on the choke side is timed or ported vacuum. In your diagram you can see the line going to the thermal switch is shown in red. By convention Ford vacuum lines are: Red = manifold White = ported Black = switched or delayed Green = switched for EGR/A.I.R. For manifold vacuum id suggest going to the capped port in the base flange, directly behind the lower tee.