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What wheelbase is your C&C? What's the R&P ratio? You're going to want a '86-'97 D60 with the same ratio as your current rear axle + the springs, shackles and frame mounts. The removable floor pan that has provision for a transfer case shifter + boot Front and rear driveshafts + transmission crossmember. Front shock towers, pitman arm and panhard bar from a 4wd 350 with solid axle ('86-97) The 4x4 transmission, tailshaft adapter and transfer case from a 350, because the front output yoke is double cardan. This likely means a T-19/1345 or 1356 combo because you have a linkage while the Zf-5 has an integrated hydraulic bellhousing and the bigger input shaft that won't work with your clutch.(the T-19 has a removable bellhousing with the standard Ford 'butterfly' bolt pattern) Gary has information about 335 series flywheel swaps from Tim Meyer if you want to go down the 5-speed path, but you'd have to change the pedal box and add a master cylinder. As Shaun said you need the front frame horns because they're pocketed for the spring shackles, unless you opt for Sky's frame box + RSK

That is great news! I'm glad the parts store was willing to test first this time I've definitely been in that position where I think I'm losing my mind. Then I remember "just because it's new doesn't mean it's good" Thanks to this adventure Gary can correct another error in Ford's documentation. The '86 EVTM diagram should have the two wires in the VR plug together, rather that the LG/R exciter wire at (I) Only other diagram mistake I recall is showing a tach as getting power from the ICVR..... this has also been revised in the public facing documentation here on the site.

Gary has already documented his discussions with an expert on lighting. The Daniel J. Stern Lighting Consultancy While U.S. DOT regulations place a 55/60W low/high beam limits, this was from the days of incandescent lights and doesn't take into account the far better luminous efficiency of LED's (~8x more light per Watt) The NHSTA do have standards for pattern and throw that are spelled out on his site and in the thread here. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/nhtsa/NHTSA.html https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td127972|a128033 https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Lighting-Upgrades-tp5689.html

Thing is.., you can't see flames through a welding hood. 🔥. My friend James got one of those canvas garage frames for free because the "tent" was in tatters. He covered it in metal roofing panels using gasketed self drilling screws and uses it for storage. (I want to say it's 18x28'???) I don't know what building codes in Florida would allow, but up here it's not inspected because it's not a 'permanent structure'

I should have known!

'86-'97 F350's (D60 solid axles w/ 8x6.5 hubs) used a front driveshaft w/ double cardan joint at the transfer case output. They also had a panhard bar that needs a mount on the crossmember. But (I'd think) the biggest challenge would be boxing the front of a 2wd frame and getting the shackle pockets right. One option is an RSK like what Gary did with Big Blue. He worked with SKY Off-road, as they hadn't perfected a kit for this before. That adventure is well documented in Big Blue's Transformation here on the forum.

I welcome you to interpret the above however you like... I assume in French it would be C-C C?

The 4180 isn't difficult to rebuild but you absolutely need to get the correct 3-1346 kit. A generic 4160 kit won't do.

Byron, if you click reply to the post you are quoting, not only will your post have a blue link back (in reply to Jim's Rebel..) but you can then hit the leftmost ["Quote] button in the reply window and their post will appear in the body of yours. I think that's 2021, but the timezone may throw people off. We have members in South America, Europe, Australia & New Zealand, Africa, etc For example, you can back out everything but what you're responding to (except the prefix & suffix brackets) and only that bit will show up.

Lol! No, Jim, I don’t suggest to create a sub-group for Loooong-Bullnoses. Just knowing who else shares the same challenge when parking these monsters at the grocery would be fine. And maybe a special section in the library where to share our tips for repairing, maintaining or restoring the «behind driver’s seat» cabin section (for exemple ceiling vault, carpet, doors & windows). I'm going to have to suggest 'The BBC'. It's official!

I've always used an ink/pen eraser, rubberized mild abrasive (similar to Craytex or Peco, the toy train track cleaner) We used to be able to get the slip on ones that fit a pen like a pencil eraser but I don't know if they still exist.

We already have 'The FOG' (Flareside Owners Group) What do you suggest?

Looking good, Shaun! I can tell you're already more comfortable with your welder. I hope the rain holds off and you can get it buttoned back up. :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig: Years back I remember laying on ice to weld a front sway bar mount back into Alex's Mustang. The wind was drifting snow under the car and when the shielding gas got blown away the ensuing sparks set my greasy sweat shirt on fire.

It's fine to ask. We're well known for tangents and drifting subjects. The only issue i can think is that (depending on how you've got it wired) it may bypass the clutch safety interlock. If your connections are all at the ignition switch then even that is good. 👍

I think Gary got it more right than I did. The way I phrased it makes it seem the inner collar is the lock when in reality it is the fixed end of the cable.

They never worked worth a damn. That's why everyone has them converted to a volt meter by Rocketman/CCI or just leaves them disconnected. Did you try grounding the screw on the regulator (where it says "Ground Here To Test"?) I'm not sure why your "new" alternator wouldn't be charging. If I were to buy one in a store I always make them test it before I walk out the door

I didn't watch the video... yet. You need to lever the plastic collar to the side. The big part fits over the boss on the back of the speedo. The collar locks into the groove.

If your battery warning lamp is burnt out then the LG/R wire isn't getting power to bootstrap the alternator. (some later trucks had a 512ohm resistor across the back of the cluster flex to 'help' the alternator in case the bulb filament breaks) I don't know what any PO (or their backyard mechanic) might have messed with. I can only speak of how it should be, or how I've made many modifications to my own truck.

Certainly try it connected to 'S' if that's how your truck was working before. I know you've said that you tested all wires for voltage before, but I've got to ask you, if you turn the key to Run (without starting the truck) does the battery warning lamp in the cluster stay illuminated? Does that LG/R wire have nominal 12V??? Look at the diagram. C610 is shown in four different places, but it's there. This is one of the idiosyncracies* of the way EVTM's are laid out. I'm on my phone so it's a bit of a challenge for me to highlight it in all those locations, but rest assured that it is all one connector (on the right side of that pic) Edit for clarity: this photo from Gary has the 2G harness with the splices and plugs called out.

That sounds very much like the caulking/sealant inside the cowl has cracked or come loose. Usually if the windshield is leaking it follows the lip off to the side of the windshield and ends up by the kick panel. Id think the best way to tell is tape a piece of plastic to the back of the cowl, under the wiper arms, and then use a hose or bucket of water to see if it's the cowl well leaking. If you do remove this, Gary would suggest gluing a piece of screen to the underside of the slots to keep leaves and other debris out.

Cool find! It's funny in all that he doesn't mention repainting the yellowed 'light pipes' matte white inside. The work looks good. I don't really care for the incandescent bulbs with blue filters, but to each his own.

Splice 202 should be out in the harness. Look how it picks up both the shunt and the 'downwind leg' of the ammeter (Y/LG 654) as well as the main feed to the cab (Y 37) before Connector 610. Then the thicker yellow 37 splits into two fusible links (S101) in front of the blower plenum. The shunt wire (B/O 38) across the ammeter is a very specific resistance under load. I think more likely you've spliced a fuselink under the blue heat shrink, and you're showing S203 If this is the case, R/O is going to be 655 going to the battery side of your ammeter through C610. The yellow zip tie is definitely attached just next to the engine bay side of C610. And the LG/R wire in your hand should go to (I) of the voltage regulator. (Jim's Rebel says it goes to (S) on a 2G, and frankly I don't recall that long ago) I do agree with Bill (85Lebaront2) that the 36 Y/W sense wire is better off attached at S204 where the two output wires join.

I'm glad you got it figured out, Rene! Apologies if I've mis-identified the wire colour. I only have the diagram shown to work from.

One thing to keep in mind is that the EVTM only shows the circuit in question. You will find that it might show a 3 pin connector, but that connector could also be handling other things. So it might appear different than you think. Happy Thanksgiving to you all! 🦃