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So I'm learning how to use it, slowly. But it certainly isn't ready for prime time. Perhaps Bing Chat was Alpha, because changing the name of a chicken to "dog" doesn't fundamentally change a chicken, nor does putting it on a leash. I wasn't entirely joking about our robot overlords. I consider it inevitable that silicon (or perhaps an organic neural mesh) will become skynet. There isn't far to go. I'm sorry to hear you were under the weather (figuratively and literally) Hope you are soon back to 100% Yesterdays overnight was pretty intense with flooding and winds high enough to have roads blocked by trees and power lines. Rain coming down sideways in waves, but 60° in mid December . As they say "Not a fit night out for man or beast"

Interesting article popped up in my Ars feed: https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2023/12/a-song-of-hype-and-fire-the-10-biggest-ai-stories-of-2023/ Note the first story. Yes, Copilot is last year's Bing Chat, with all the warts you'd expect of an unconditioned GPT-4 language model. So a zillion dollar technology company is essentially making everyone using it's latest OS into Beta testers. What has this world come to?

I think this is the illustration you're looking for Under: documentation/suspension and steering/front suspension/2wd/80-86 stamped axle. Bolt n801079-s

The pulley is pressed on and off the pump's shaft with a special tool. There is no key or anything keeping it from turning or nut holding it on, so it better be tight. I think you'd be better off with some kind of straight edge, like a 2' level, to determine if the sheaves are aligned. The picture looks to me like the power steering pump is setting too far back (but maybe I'm confused?) You don't want the belt too tight.it will kill the bushing/bearings in the PS pump. Typically 1/2" deflection. With a straight edge laid over the belt and pulleys push the belt down with your thumb in the middle of the run. Is there enough room to put the tip of your pinky in there?

That Borgenson shaft certainly does look a lot like mine. It's nice that Lee made their pump with an 11/16 shaft so you could use your existing pulley, but man they are proud of that thing! The old Cardone bracketed Saginaw pump was under $90 outright (as the CII is completely different) I hope it serves you well for another ~40 years

If it was a factory HO truck he has a 12V choke wire and a relay being pulled in by the stator circuit. That's why I asked about his VIN..... OTOH the Demon is about like any other Holley and he could just swap the single bullet Motorcraft choke cap over to it. But it's difficult to know all these things over the Internet, when in person we would know at a glance.

It may just be the camera angle but if it is as bad as it looks on my phone I would definitely say that is a problem. How deep is the pulley engagement on the pump shaft? Could you safely move it out 1/4" at a time?

What's the eighth digit of the VIN? H or W?

Gary said it was possible to get Brandon's 4x4 351 pan out with the engine in place but that it took the lift, a transmission jack and both of them all day to swap his oil pump. Also that he would never again waste his time as it's easier and quicker to pull the engine (in the Garagemahal) I can't really speak about doing it with a Windsor. With a 4x4 460 or 420 IDI definitely not happening.

I'd think you would see some metallic flakes or a really shiny bolt head if a flex plate bolt had backed out (and become a crude fly cutter)? You can poke the hose around from the top where you're not surrounded by noises. The metal lamination of an exhaust gasket can screech like a blade of grass between your thumbs when you blow through it. My initial probing had me thinking my tick or clatter might be coming from the LH headpipe to manifold junction, but working with a cold engine so I didn't burn my hand it became very clear that it was the bottom of the #8 exhaust port nearer the side facing #7. Don't discount the old screwdriver to the ear trick or even an actual mechanics stethoscope with a solid wand. These are cheap enough at places like harbor freight. If the noise is coming from inside a case or block you will know right away.

I'd still start with swapping the flasher cans. The hazard switch shares a fuse with your brake lights and feeds the turn signal switch through the W/R wire But from there on out it uses* the same turn signal wiring(and you say that's all working fine)

Do the hazard lights also flash with no tempo? If they flash normally you might try swapping the turn signal flasher (front side of the fuse panel) with the hazard flasher that's on the back. If both the hazard and turn signals are the same I'd go looking for a wire in the circuit hat isn't making 100% contact. Wiring diagrams and troubleshooting available under documentation/electrical/EVTM/your general year

The driveshaft length is fine. You need the AOD kickdown linkage or an aftermarket setup like Lokar. TV adjustment is critical to longevity because they don't use a vacuum modulator the same way a C4 or 6 do.

You're really going to want to remove the flywheel/Flex Plate and for a 4x4 460 it is an engine out operation to pull the oil pan. (believe me, I've had a new pan and gasket for a year) The back 'ledge' of the block (with the oil pressure sender removed) will hit the firewall long before you can get the rear sump pan past the pump and pickup, even if you can get to all the pan bolts with the exhaust disconnected, motor mounts and adapter plates off and the engine pulled up tight with a crane. Sorry for the bad news. Gary will confirm. There's no getting that pan off and dropping the crank in situ.

The audio is really difficult for me to interpret. If you think it might be coming from the transmission I think the old pry bar handle to the ear 'stethoscope' would pinpoint that as the cause. Also, id think a transmission noise is going to change with gear or road speed. If it strictly follows engine speed and gets louder under load i'd suggest you have an exhaust leak. This also might explain your whistling component. A few feet of vinyl tube (3/8"? ID) will let you listen close along the flanges and pinpoint a source. I know that periodically the inside bottom of #8 on my truck will get to leaking, and sound like a bad valve tick. Good luck Pete. I hope you find it soon.

I'm glad you've got it working! Having the main power wire stripped and stuck under a fuse seems crazy when the power is right there and they cut it off.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1980-1991-Steering-Column-Billet-Lower-Bearing-Housing-tp53187.html

Kinda makes me sad to see a good truck like this sitting in the weeds Congratulations! Hope it treats you well.

So, you've already got the connector off and you still can't pull the wires through? Do note where Tom mentioned that he taped up the wires with the pins staggered so they don't present a big lump to try and get through the column. But he also said he doesn't have tilt. If you're still stuck perhaps another member has better advice? I've never had to deal with replacement in a tilt column.

Typically you unpin the curved connector and then fish the wires back down through the column. This is more complicated if you have tilt column because there's less room through the hinge area. ETA if you have speed/cruise control there will be two of these curved connectors C305, A&B Let me see if I can find a recent thread about this. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Replacing-a-turn-switch-td140381.html

Longtubes can be a challenge with the transmission crossmember but at least you're not 4wd. The Saginaw pumps don't grind and whir like the C2 style do. They also don't squirt out the cap vent if you turn the wheels with the engine off. Those with lifted trucks and wide tires say the van pumps hold up much better. I don't think they have the relief valve set any higher.

The grey plug is C333, the black plug is C522 Yellow in C333 is constant power, Light Blue/Red is dashboard illumination/dimmer and Light green is 'lights on' The vehicle side is right angle like this http://www.metraonline.com/part/71-1770

They would have connected into the stock radio. But somebody butchered that install. You can still buy the adapter harness. Metra 70-1770 for $6.09 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Metra-1985-2004-Lincoln-Mercury-Premium/dp/B0002BF0BQ?th=1

Welcome! Sounds like a fun little project What do you have for a transmission now? You may need to tweak the Y-pipe because the 315 is wider and (I believe) vans use different exhaust manifolds. The Saginaw power steering pump from a van is a desirable truck upgrade

They're supposed to be T-50. Mushroom head, 7/16-20 self tapping and 1 3/8" under the head. When I couldn't find any at a reasonable price I ended up getting some generic hex head seat belt bolts from seatbelt planet. Hopefully someone here can help you out