FuzzFace2

Man am I glad I don't have to worry about the wood in my flare side bed Dave ----

True but if it is mounted to high on the glass then it can block them from being used when the mirror is in place. It just came to me a member has 2 trucks I can check less than 5 miles I can get measurements from. If I can remember I will do that. Dave ----

You are a better man than me, I used the cherry picker to get it out of my Durango as I felt it was too heavy to lift by myself. I had help getting it in. Dave ----

So do I. Severely. As for the Milkshake part, I don't have a solution, but wasn't that a known Ford thing back in the day? I pumped gas at a Texaco for a few years in highschool (late 80's) and we always joked about all the Fords and their milky dipsticks and oil filler caps. They were usually all cars like Crown Vic's and such, but still. Thanks guys, I been putting off the NP435 transmission swap because 1- it is a heavy beast 2- I do like driving the truck after 4 years of working on it. It rained a few days I took it to work, so glad I did the intermittent wipers. I don't worry about the rain as I built the truck to drive. As for the milk shake I have a little digging to find out why. The easy part is to check the PCV if working. I am teeing off the top to get vacuum to the charcoal canisters. I had to put a Holley jet in that line as it was pulling too much vacuum and caused a vacuum leak. I wonder if I need to go smaller on the jet, it was the smallest I had on hand so would need to make something up. Next would be to check the stat to make sure it is not stuck open and that it is a 195*. I think I remember before I got the truck on the road the temp gauge going up close to the middle of gauge but I think I still had the old radiator? I also need to tighten the ALT belt a little as it makes a little noise on start up, new belt. I need for it to warm up a little bit more so I can paint the new sun visors I have and get them installed. Then I can get the inside mirror mounted. The mounting tab is off the glass and I had a truck the glass shop put the tab on in the wrong place and could not use 1 of the visors and I don't want that to happen to this truck and why I need the visors installed. Dave ----

I have been enjoying the truck by driving it to work all last week and trash runs 2 weeks ends now. The truck started marking the garage floor so need to check into that at some point. When I checked the oil level I got milk shake on the stick and a little under the fill cap but none on the rockers or head that I can see thru the oil fill cap. I don't see the coolant level low and the factory temp gauge makes it to the first line or maybe the n in normal. It has a new stat but don't remember the temp at this time but even if it was a 185* it should be hot enough to boil out any moister on the 30 to 45 min ride to and from work. I need to check that the PCV is working as it should to pull out any moister. On a good note I have been keeping track of mileage and I am up to the low 14 MPG. Not great but better than the 12 MPG I first reported. The only thing I have been trying to do is keep the speed to 65 MPH in a 70 MPH area with everyone doing 75+ MPH. The RPM at 65 - 70 MPH is 2300 to 2500 RPM with a 2.75 rear gear and 1:1 trans gear. Remember the truck was built when the max speed limit was 55 MPH. Dave ----

Holley box? My Holley (tool) box would not fit behind the seat and has Holley carb parts like gaskets & jets for tuning carbs. I call it a pit box for racing. So does this box have a number or name on it? Picture of this box just so we know what it is. Dave ----

The bed is actually located in SW OK closer to Wichita Falls, TX https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1613616-80-86-flareside-bed-fenders-what-are-they-worth.html Posted over in FTE https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1613616-80-86-flareside-bed-fenders-what-are-they-worth.html Dave ----

The guy I am helping offered up head liner ones to me when he gets to that part and has 2 left over. I will take them and see just how different they are and see if I can make them useable in my non-head liner truck. If nothing else I can use them as a "mold holder" when I try and repair the ones I have. I can cover the good ones in wax paper and when I come up with a fix for mine lay them over the good one to hold the shape till setup. Dave ----

True but his does not have the label and the parts truck you can hardly read it. Guess its not a big deal, I just like to know what I am starting with but they are not my trucks, I am just a helping hand in making 1 truck out of 2 and I have done that before Thanks Dave ----

You could be right on the starting point but if the box does not dial back on power up or when starting you could have starter kick back. Then again if you have pinging at factory settings with todays crappy gas why bump it up even more? If it is dialed in there should not be a need for this. I only see this working if the car / truck is driven on the street & raced. You could have it dialed back for street gas and then bump up for race gas at the track. I was going to say for spray but there are other ways to back off timing when spraying a motor that MSD makes and plugs into the MSD main box like the 6AL. Guess I just don't get the MSD box for use on the street? Dave ----

My VIN 1FTCF10E4BNA30878 comes up as a 81 F100 2wd pick up complete. I did not run his VIN thru but looking over the page I don't see any thing about flare side or style side trucks just complete or other. On the other site you plug in the VIN and it pops up the information I just don't know where it is pulling this from? Maybe something like the Marti report you can get? No big deal just thought it was strange his that we don't know if it started as a flare side other than on paper (title) as it was missing the filler panels and some other little signs. Dave ----

Does look good and I like the curvy sticks as well. My replacement NP435 is also curvy The straight sticks on the newer trucks look like they forgot to put a stick on for shifting and just added it. Dave ----

Again I don't know if any of the links will have something that will work for him or not? They are links I had saved as I came across them for clips when needed for my AMC's. The rocker molding on the Javelin I believe are AMC Javelin only clips. Think was the same for the molding strips between the roof rack for Gremlins. Do you have a clips / hard ware page? Maybe the links can be put there for all to see? Dave ----

The 30-40advance is total timing not the base. THE TIMING NUMBERS ARE JUST NUMBERS FOR THIS POST -your numbers WILL BE different. Remember you start at a base of say 10* @ say 600 RPM, vacuum line off & plugged. Now if you were to bring the RPM up to say 2500 you have mechanical timing added to the base and say it is now 20* advance. Now hookup the vacuum line and bring the RPM backup to 2500 RPM and say you now have 30* advance. This 30* is the total timing and with the knob set to 15* and checked with a light should read 30* advance with vacuum hooked up. Now as you dial back the 15* knob it should remove timing from the total. Now I don't know if each line is 1* or more but lets say it 1* and you dial back to 10* that should remove 5* of total from the 30* bringing it to 25* advance. Now does MSD want you to set total timing to 0* with knob set to its lowest setting (0*?), don't know how you would do that and still have motor run? and then dial it up to 15* for a total? Again I cant see how this would work as it would be to far retarded to even run. I do have a MSD 6AL in my drag race car and only use the RPM limit the 6AL box has built in. I have looked into the shift light plug in but that is as far as it has gone, just looked as I shift it be ear. Dave ----

https://www.pdqautosupplies.com/ https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Default.asp http://automotivefasteners.com/ http://www.restorationspecialties.com/ https://www.mrgusa.com/ https://shop.northlandfasteners.com/main.sc;jsessionid=C97F4CDAB61BB50DD060BF8EC6CA33BB.p3plqscsfapp002 https://www.amkproducts.com/ This is all I had saved. I did make sure that home page showed up, had links saved for ever, but did not go deeper or see if they had anything that would work. Also if you don't see what you need being you have the picture you may want to reach out to them with picture and what it is for to see if they have something but not listed on line. Good luck and keep us posted Dave ----

I don't know if they could be gotten as a "clip" less the molding? If it came into a shop back in the day we would go to the draw and look for something we could use. When I have the time I will go thru my links to see if I have anything saved for things like that but may be a bit. Dave ----

The one on that other forum I posted a link to above. I just thought it odd it listed his 83 as a flare side but my 2 trucks, 1 a flare side, as reg or std cabs? Cant remember if I used yours or not as I was having a heck of a time just getting the VIN right for the other site between O & 0 and F & P from the cert labels LOL Dave ----

So anyone "adding" something the truck model never came with but did on another model is out .... duel tank flare side using all factory style side Ford parts? Then again it was not really a "bolt in" just like the rest of "my" upgrades LOL How about the 38 gallon rear tank in place of the 19 gallon tank? Dave ----

I thought the XL & XLT were wood grain? Dave ----

Price is not bad, forgot to check shipping, but being NOS would it have the same issues as the stripe kits? Dave ----

Don't think this will work for you guys with the motor in place but maybe do as some do on cars with headers. You lay the headers in place in the engine bay held out of the way with bungees then drop the motor in. Being held with bungees they can be moved as needed to clear the motor as it is going in. Once the motor is in place you just undo the bungees and flip up the header to the head. On my drag car I did it this way when I replaced the motor and worked great. The first time was a bear with no lift from under the car. They were super comp 1-7/8" big tube not the little 1-3/4" that you can get every where. Dave ----

And that 10.6 looks to be Dymo label the plastic type and embosses the letters into it and the corner as peeled away. A normal travel trailer would be 10+ feet tall and could be pulled by a F150 but that dash could be from a 250 or 350 also. Dave ----

Thanks guys. My buddy posted the VIN from the title and it shows the truck as a 83 flare side with a 302 motor. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/vindecoder.php Now we will not know if that matches the dash VIN or the frame number till we dig into the truck a little more. Now I ran my 2 trucks thru the same VIN check he did and both come up as "1981 Ford F-Series Pickup 2WD F-100 Reg Cab"? Funny as my flare side had all the right parts for a flare side where his is missing some. Must have something to do with the years and what info the VIN decode site gives? Dave ----

I was going to say the screw holes are in different places between them. Dave ----

I think it was me that posted the "hack" on the key. I believe the lock for the wheel is the same way, pins on 1 side only. Get a key cut for the 2 trucks and if it did not work what are you out a few bucks? Dave ----