FuzzFace2

Sorry a little late to the party. First what ever hose you use for the vent inside the filler hose has to be rated to be in gas or the outside will turn to mush! If you look at the metal part of the filler there is a little pocket the vent hose slips into, the tank has the same pocket. If the vent hose dose not fit into the pockets and held in place it can then slide down the filler hose and into the tank messing with the float and keeping it from working. http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/var/resizes/1980-Ford-F100/20180512_103331.jpg?m=1526150590 Both the front & rear tanks on my 81 F100 flare side have the vent hoses in the pockets and I can fill as fast as the station pumps will go. Dave ----

I think there are 2 reasons why the wood blocks are used on the flare sides. 1 - if there was nothing in the channel when you go to tighten the bed bolts down the channel would get crushed and the bolt would never tighten. 2 - if the metal channel was to sit on the metal frame it may make noise. Now the style side beds, at least the one I pulled from the parts truck and used for the floor from it for my flare side floor did not have anything between channels and frame. Also the style side channels are welded to the metal ribbed floor and the U faces up not down like the flare sides. I also remember a tube between the floor metal and the cross member to keep the floor from being crushed when the bold were tighten down. No I dont get any noise with the channels / frame, metal to metal and I got over 28k miles on the truck over the last 5 years. Dave ----

You know I dont think I tried that as I had the yoke from the NP435 and took it to the shop to make a new drive shaft. IIRC the yoke was on a drive shaft and he said he could not use it to shorten as it had a dent in the center, I seen it when I cleaned it. He said he would not trust it to balance / run true and I under stood 100% so it was a little more money for a new tube. Sorry I dont have the answer 😞 Dav ----

So sorry I did not get to this sooner. When the site changed format I got locked out and life got in the way sorry. As for the swap I did add the Advance Adapter Range Splitter over drive at the same time I pulled the T18 and installed the NP435. I did not swap the clutch assy. as the clutch was new when truck was put on the road and did not have many miles on it. I also fit the old disc on the NP435 input shaft and it fit and measured the pilot end and how long the shaft was and all were the same between the 2 transmissions. Now I cant remember if I waited to order the over drive unit as you needed to know the front bearing retainer size as it needs to fit into the rear of the over drive just like it would the bell housing, after the throw out bearing guide was cut off, but if I remember that was also the same between both transmissions. On the rubber mount I think I used the T18 one and the cross member just had to move it back 7.5 inches and drill new holes in the frame because it moved back but it was a bolt in. Speedo cable also swapped in but IIRC the drive gear was bad and after check on here I took the new one from the T18 and swapped it on to the NP435 output shaft. The speedo did jump a little as I think it was pulled to tight when the transmission moved back so I got a longer one and that was good to go. I had the transmission hump cover from the parts truck that had a SROD and I cut the pan and bent the over drive shifter to come out in the pan as I did not want to cut into the newly installed floor pan. I have had people look at the 2 shifters and then look under for 4x4 parts till I tell them the shifter is for over drive. So my take on the swap from T18 to NP435 if it was not for the over drive it would have been a direct bolt it. Dave ----

I thought there was a post on the letter colors used with body colors or was that on the other site From the factory the letters where painted on using a rubber roller and why the edges as not sharp like decals. When I pained my truck I looked into painting the letters but was way too much work and could not find the right roller so I went reflective vinyl letters as I did a lot of night time driving and wanted to be seen. I did not think the non-two tone trucks (style side) got pin stripes? I can see maybe molding and not two tone? Yes flare sides if two tone did get pin stripes as there was no moldings for that body style. My truck was a custom and I did find traces of the stripes when doing the body work. Because you can no longer get the flare side stripe kits and was too much work to paint them on I just butted the 2 colors up to each other. I think it looks great. Style side had moldings. No tail gate so dont know what it had, this was a Ranger package. Dave ----

Years ago my brother saw a flare with a step and I asked if to looked to wide for the truck and he said no. I then asked if he know what it was from as there was no info on them and he did not. Some thought maybe a S10 pick up step might work but dont know of anyone that gave it a try to say yes or no on. Looks good just needs to go a little higher to cover the openings for the brackets. Do you have any brackets or you got to come up with them? I knew I would be pulling more than a step bumper could handle so I went with a frame mounted hitch. My truck also came with the normal skinny flare side bumper that I filled in hols a PO driller for the plate and shaved the bumper bolts. Dave ----

Sorry making a mess of this thread It looks like you have the upper part of the flare side neck that bolts to the "box" bolted to the fender. Look at my first pic and you can see the flare side has a clamp up close to the cap like yours. For the outer part I would get some fuel hose U could use to join the upper cap part to EXH piping & EXH piping to the tank. I would make up the EXH piping to run from the cap to tank with all the bends then figure out the vent tube in side. BTW this is the only place I know of the sells the right size hose for the style sides and all the parts store ones are to short. https://www.fillernecksupply.com/ Now you can get the parts store style side hose, think it has a bend or maybe bends? And use the EXH pipe to make it longer to reach? We got to think outside the box when you have a flare side as there is not a lot of support for us Dave ----

Now that I get looking at the pictures of the flare side pipe (1st pic) and the installed set up (last pic) It looks like I might have used a style side metal part of the filler as it looks like there is a clamp down in the middle of the filler? Dont know why I did that other than it fit better than the flare side filler? Could also been the flare side parts might have fit better for the rear tank than anything I had on hand and was then able to use the other parts for the front? All I can tell you is it's been working for 5+ years and 28+k miles so far. Dave ----

Here is the right filler hose for a flare side Dont know if this was the right filler hose at this point as I was just getting parts on the truck to get them out of my way. You can see filler hoses goes over the frame and under the bed when installed. You can also see the plastic vent tube sticking out the end. This is what I ended up with for the front tank. Now I think I used the filler parts from the first picture as they came from a flare side but by the time I got to this point I had the filler parts that were all wrong that came off the truck. I also had the front and rear filler hoses from a style side parts truck so that gave me 4 filler necks to use. 2 from the style side, junk from my truck and the flare side one. I do have a rear tank on my flare side and I used what ever parts I had left to make the filer and vent work for it. I used copper tubing to join the vent tube together to make it long enough. I also used EXH. tubing to join the outer hose together for the same reason. Only thing to remember is the filler hose has to with stand gas, radiator hose will not. So if you need to make a bend and you cant get the hose for this use EXH pipe to make the bend and the hose and clamps to join them. Once the filler hose is in place no one but you (and us if you post it) will know or see it. Yes you do need the vent inside the filler if you want to put any gas in the tank in 1 day. I was lucky that I had the style side and the flare side vents to use to make work. No one makes or sells this plastic tubing. Some have used PEX tubing bent to fit the bends as the vent as gas will not hurt it. Remember what ever you use has to with stand sitting in gas and PEX was tested by sitting in gas for think it was a week? Hope this helps Dave ----

Running a vacuum advance dist.? Maybe when testing tracking down an issue to remove & plug the vacuum? This way the vacuum advance is not messing with you too. Dave ----

You said you were "topping off" how much did you have in the tank before the top off? Where you going to use it mostly up or was the truck going to sit in the drive for weeks? I would not think twice if I was down to say a 1/4 and was going to drive the truck and use it up in a short time. 1/2 and above I would let it sit and not worry. I know if all the the pumps had were E15 and I needed fuel E15 is what I would use and drive on. The other thing to remember the more "E" the leaner the mix so it takes more fuel per gallon to make the same power as lower / no E fuel. That is why "E" carbs have larger jets and passages. EFI can compensate up to a point but carbs cannot as they are "fixed" on the fuel flow. Dave ----

That is a strange one and not even close to the Sept. cut over date for new models If you did not buy the truck new anything could be with the motor but as a guess it was changed for a newer but .......... You say the sender plug has 4 wires, 2 for sender and 2 for the pump. This wiring if you follow it back no splicing, looks factory? If it is a factory electric pump I would think there would be a factory relay under the hood like the factory electric pump trucks. On the gauge what testing have you done? With a test light you need to see what wires do what. Fuel pump should be hot all the time and the sender will blink. I would think the other 2 are grounds but test them too. If you do have a blinking wire that is good. Ground that wire and with the key on the gauge should go to full. Do not do this to long as you can hurt the gauge. This test the wire from sender to the gauge and the gauge. If no blinking or gauge moves when grounded more testing is needed. Dave ----

What parts are you ordering as that may make a difference? I take it you dont know if the truck was early 5/85 or late 5/85 do you? As for the 01/00/85 "I" see it up to 01/00/85 (12/31/84) and after 01/00/85 (01/01/85). Dont know why they would not do "up to 12/84 and after 01/85" in that case? The only other thingI can think of is to order for either before or after and see what fits and return the wrong parts if you can. Then order the early or later parts after that. Good luck Dave ----

When we ground it, it goes to full. It's the second pump we put in so we were having a hard time believing it would be the sender. The gauge works if we turn the key on but when we start it the gauge stops working for the rear tank. Dose this do the same on the front tank too? Wonder if the IGN switch is not making a full connection after it is turned to start? Anything else not work like radio, power windows, etc.? Dave ----

Welcome Kid from a FOG member. Dont think I have ever seen one in white before Would like to hear more about the truck and the plans you have for it. Dave ----