FuzzFace2

I know he ask only 2 basic questions, sometimes it the questions not asked that kills a project On the doors I remember reading something about the door and the jambs being a little different at the rear bottom of the opening. I did not want him to get the dash all swapped in with the doors off as it is easier to work on it that way, and then find out the doors don't close because they hit at the bottom rear of the opening. Wont that 12 valve be too heavy for the smaller trucks suspensions? This must be out od a newer F800 truck then as I think the larger truck older diesels were Cats or Detroit Diesels. So when do we see a post on this project Dave ----

It is a vary nice looking truck and the price is not bad either. To bad on the passenger door panel looking the way it does. Also what is with the shift display? It looks like it is for a over drive auto no? Or is that the way they look for "Drive", both of mine are stick. Dave ----

Do you know why the truck was parked 12 years ago? Do you even know if the motor runs and if so hitting on all 8 holes? What does the oil look like that is in it now? Me and not knowing all that information why spend the money on oil & filter till you hear it run? Make sure the oil level is up, see if the motor turns over by hand and not stuck. Little oil in the plug holes, fresh gas down carb and the pump pulling fresh gas from a can on the fender and see if it will start & run. You can run it for a min or 2 with no coolant just to make sure the motor does run with no noise, etc. Once you know that and maybe coolant so you can get the motor up to temp before changing the oil & filter. If the motor does not run good you can find out why and you not spent money on oil & filter you may be dumping down the drain when you pull it for a rebuild or other motor. I am a little cheap and why I do it that way. Dave ----

From what I remember reading on another forum and I may have some of it wrong. Don't think the dashes can be swapped as the mounting points / bolts have changed locations and the dash wraps around and ties into the door panels. Wiring as Gary said it would be good if you could swap in your wiring but ... from what I remember the fuel gauge works backwards to what your sender(s) do. Full on gauge is empty and empty on gauge is full other than that is all I know of and this comes from tank swaps IIRC. Now I thought the outside of the doors were the same shape and would line up to the fenders & bed? Now again what I remember is the door opening & door frames are a little different. Look at the lower rear area closely as the shape in that area changed and the doors would not fit right. You might be able to use late doors on an early body / opening or it was the other way around, don't remember but there was something. I don't know about the door panels or if the door & window handles changed locations so you cant bolt your old panels on or not. Then you have the dash that ties into the door panels that now would hang out in space. I am pretty sure you can bolt your nose onto the later truck. I want to say someone has don't this but was using the everything from the later truck, read frame, and it was the frame the bumper bolts to that was different and stuck out to far and was a different shape so could not bolt on the early bumper. Now being you will be using the early frame then the bumper should bolt up. If it was me and knowing what I just posted and to make sure it fits is take a tape measure to the body lines between the 2 trucks to see if they will line up to the fenders & bed. If so get the full cab with doors, dash & wiring and bolt it to your frame. This way you have everything if your early parts don't fit but you have them on hand to take a closer look if they will fit or not. I don't know if anyone has tried to move the dash mounting points between the 2 trucks but there is always a first. We have had a member crazy enough to swap firewalls just to have AC so it may not be that hard for a few bolts & nuts? Then again can you use the early door panels on the later doors and if not just keep the dash & doors as they are. Because the later year truck will be EFI I think I would see about swapping in your wiring and just live with the backward fuel gauge and not need to deal with the computer junk. Then again if it has power windows & locks I may keep the wiring and pull out the computer junk and re-tape the harness so I would have the power windows & locks. I would think if the extra parts you end up with are that good that you would use them you sould be able to sell them for a few coin in the pocket. Dave ----

Thanks guys all good information. I think he said it was a slip yoke like my T18 but will recheck on that. I also am pretty sure the measurements will be close and that the cross members are the same between the to transmissions just not sure on the rubber mount. I will also ask for more pictures to make sure it is what he said it is. I was also told of a SBF ZF5 for about $350 and a lot closer but it was for a 92> and did not see a spot for the speedo cable but the price is great. It does not have a slip yoke so for sure new drive shaft if I was to use it. It also does not come with pedals, cross members, and think other thing or 2 so I have passed on it. I have not heard back on the measurements yet but I did tell him no rush and it sounded like he was away from home so too. I also could not go for it till next weekend as the wife wants to take a ride and the fur kid sitter cant do it this weekend. Dave ----

I have the Radio SST 280 and CD Changer 250 that I picked up used for a different project that other than bench testing have not used yet. I also picked up 2 other new off brand radios I could use in it but I am not that close yet. Now for the truck I picked up I think it was a 86+ factory AM/FM/Cassette and used 2 speakers I had laying around and it works pretty good for not having carpet on the floor to keep road noise down. I don't think the SST 280 has BT or a way to use a cable but I have not looked at the radio in over 5 or 6 years. Dave ----

This was when I first joined and some (most) said not to do the fire wall swap. Pictures of the AC firewall over the non-AC firewall outside and from in side. Think it was after I was done it came out to cut the 3rd hole in the firewall. I would say go for the 3rd hole. If you can find large paper or maybe card board to trace the AC firewall to then you can move that to your truck to mark & cut. Now to the condenser & radiator support. I know between my 2 trucks the AC truck had a larger opening for the radiator & condenser so both of them were larger also. Now was this because both were 300 six or ??? also know the after market condenser is a little larger and you need to space out the lower part and the lower hood latch support also needs to be spaced out. But if you are using everything from the parts truck you may not need to do this spacing out? The wiring harness for AC is a add on to the trucks system. IIRC there was a loop and you removed the loop and plugged in the AC harness and feed it out thru the firewall to the engine bay. My parts truck did not have a motor so don't know if it had the idle speed kick up. I cant really say much on the dash as I swapped the whole dash / ducts & wiring from the parts truck to mine, column was out. I can tell you the center dash support from dash to firewall are different between the 2 systems. You can paint or dye the dash assy. but use SEM products to do the job. I don't think you will have half the trouble I did with anything under the hood. Did I forget anything? Dave ----

Yea being it was like $60 shipped I had to go for it and it had pictures of it working. Dave ----

I think you'd be pretty safe making that choice even without looking them over. I was lucky mine was free from CA ... my brother found it in a JY and sent it to me. Dave ----

I had the Vega and the 215 / 200 hp (v4) but never got the 2 together I did up a little 302 with 351 heads for my uncles 67 Bronco we raced off road. Took it to 100 yard drags one weekend and a lot though I had a SBC in it for how well (beating everything) it ran. I had to pop the hood so they could see the SBF to believe me. It was great to run 14" paddle tires on the rear and little paddles up from, the fronts were hardly on the ground. Motor would run to 7500 RPM but you would shift between 7000 to 7200 RPM. I wished I knew he was getting rid of it as I would have bought it and dropped the motor in a car body and gone drag racing. Then to bring you back to earth you hop in an old VW 1300 bug with 36 HP or my 73 Fiat 850 sedan with it's 817cc and hardly36 HP on it. Them were the days! Dave ----

Not anymore Dave ----

I think the plug is there from what I remember. I also need to look for the under dash light plug to add lights as the dome light does not work because the harness to it is bad and I cant change it. Dave ----

I was thinking the same thing when I looked them over. Dave ----

Thanks I seen the other one that was posted with pig tail and it shown working and a buck cheaper. I also see what that 3rd picture was. Think it is the where the plug goes. Dave ----

Does that fit behind the center bezel above the radio? And if so then I guess there is a harness to go from the trucks harness to it? What is that 3rd picture as I cant tell. Dave ----

I like the color combo and I am for shiny and not that patina but that's me. Dave ----

Depending how crazy you want to get both with swapping gear set and money you can have just about anything LOL Right now I want something that will shift as it should, unlike my T18 that I know should shift better than it does. Also be some what cheap and last if I keep it in the truck. Dave ----

I / shop had a 68 fast back with the Hi Po 289 / 271hp and 4sp. We had to install a new exh. and went with the factory duels that had the "H" head pipe but did not run the resonators and a lot of people liked the way it sounded. With duel piston calipers and that light 289 the car handled really good as I chased down a Fire Bird one night Steve McQ style Things we did when we were young and stupid Dave ----

Kurt, Long time no hear hope all is well. If I don't hear back from the seller I may just do that, stop and get measurements. Got under mine when I got home from work to measure mine and see the truck has marked it's place in the house garage! It never leaked oil when in my garage and why I moved it to the house and did not put anything under it. It looks to be all transmission oil, cant win sometimes. I really want a 5sp and what may end up with is the M5-R2 and it does not have granny first but then I may not need it for the few times I might be pulling the trailer. I also read the T19, also with out a granny first, has better (close) ratios and can be driven as a true 4sp. The NP435 has over all lower ratios of any of the transmissions I have been looking into. If I can get a good (shifting) T18 or NP435 I could then go for an OD unit. I will let you know if I need to get under your for measurements. Thanks Dave ----

IIRC it was Douglasville just out side Atlanta He is on the other site and will get a link to the guy. Here is the link started by the guy that has the motor https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1608865-4-speed-trans-sale-value.html You will need to be a member there but cant PM anyone till you have I think it is over 10 posts so after you reach him may have to do emails as prices cant be talked about for selling. Good luck Dave ----

Sorry, my bad...if I go down into the shipping calculator area and enter the zip code I use (04619), then yes, it worked. DUH. I guess it depends on how the seller sets up the ad/auction. If they are free shipping, they just show free shipping. Sometimes it will auto-calculate shipping to Canada (if the seller has it enabled to do so). If they have it set up so that they only wish to sell/ship in the US, then it usually shows me that the item is not available in your country or may not be available in your country. I had to look for it myself and I wanted to see where it was coming from when I seen the button. Dave ----

I though I seen slots for adjustment between the different transmissions on mine a few weeks ago. Some of the web searching I have done today I find the T18 / T19 / NP435 all swap between them with a little different parts. Most of the information is for "what is best?" and the T19 you can drive as a true 4sp with a sync first gear where the T18 & NP435 you drive as a 3sp as the first is a non-sync granny gear. Like anything it depends on how you want to use the truck. Thanks Dave ----

If you're lucky, your existing cable will fit/reach the other transmission. When I switched from my original 3spd manual to the 5spd manual, I was lucky as both transmissions were almost the exact same length. I think the 5spd was 3/8" longer. So the speedo drive gear was in roughly the same location...maybe an inch or two further back, but I was able to use my existing cable. Also, both trans were slip yoke, so my original driveshaft fit without modification. Reverse switch is easy to deal with also. The plugs were different between the two trannys, so I just spliced a new plug on the truck harness. Done like dinner. You should be able to use your existing mechanical clutched bell and associated parts on the new trans also. From the pictures it is hard to tell where the hole is for the speedo but looks to be about where mine is. Then I would just need to make sure my driven gear will work with the drive gear - I hope it will be. The switch looks to be the same as mine and I had to make a plug from a weather pack plug as the trucks plug was bad inside the plug. I also did not want to spend $ if the switch did not work, I was lucky it did. I was also thinking the same on the linkage as the bells are "bolt on's". The seller thinks he has the juice pedal assy. that I will try and buy with the bell so I have them if I ever need them for a 5sp I may come across. Thanks Dave ----

The seller said his was a slip yoke into the transmission like my T18 and he may have the yoke as that would help. I just will not know if the 2 are the same from face to tail so see if my drive shaft would work. Thanks Dave ----

Holy smokes, 80 bucks shipping within the US. That seems steep. Ok, thanks Dave. I was just curious if it was showing Free Shipping within the US like they often do. If the seller selects that they will ONLY sell/ship within the US, it doesn't show me any shipping, nor does it let me calculate it because my location disqualifies me. I can ship big stuff to Maine, but I can't always see what the shipping estimates are. Thanks! It did give a calculator button just had to enter the zip code. Are you saying you don't even see the calc button? That is strange, I can see if you put in your zip it kicking you back out or "not able to ship to". That zip was for my home when I lived in CT. I would say if you see the calc button to enter the zip for the town in ME to see what it would be. I also though the $80 was a bit much too. Dave ----