FuzzFace2

I used their HVAC box reseal kit on my 70 AMC Javelin. If they don't list what you need give them a call, this is a 2nd job for them so may not get thru on first try. Also if they don't have the parts they will work with you on making them. I am sure that is how this kit was done, think he bought the box to fit / make the parts. Dave ----

I think mine is also in the same area from what I remember when working on the dash assy. I just don't want to pull apart a lot because you stand a chance of breaking stuff. Thanks for the offer. Dave ---- Well Sunday I started with a few little things. Used Velcro to hold the behind the seat storage to the back wall so it will not bang around. I then looked into why the dome light did not work. Turns out I just needed to splice in the trucks wire to the dome light wire running down the "B" pillar and it now works. With them done I moved on to the Ebay clock install. This took a few days as I cold not find the plug. The plug in the area had the wrong colors and tested out as the under dash light plug. The plug with the right wires had something in it. One end went to the harness and the other down into the darkness. A little more digging and found the end of the wire with a plug that was attached to the bottom of the dash edge. I swapped the 2 plugs top / bottom then had to figure how to mate it and the pig tail on the clock together. Wound up cutting the plug off the wire harness and used butt connectors. Other that needing to replace the 15 amp fuse I popped in checking power on wires the clock works. Dave ----

I think you nailed it once I found the plug. It was just an extension from the main harness to the clock. So the next issue to over come was the 81/82 plug will not fit the 83-86 clock. I was looking for a way to keep the plug and use the pig tail from the clock but after pulling the pins from the plug to see if they would "plug in to" something I had on hand I cut the pins and used water proof butt connectors. Wired and bolted in place I went to see if it worked and .......... NOTHING! Then I remembered the spark show when trying to remove the pins from the plug. Replaced a 15 amp fuse and we have numbers. With the clock working, the dome light now working I vacuumed the floor and if it stays warm I may even wash it. Thanks guys for the help and hand holding, don't think I could have done it with out you. Dave ----

Shaun, what I can tell there is the 4 pin plug poking out of the main harness. What I found looks like an extention so it reaches the clock. I know some clocks had different plugs on the back this extension could gave just plugged into the clock. Think I got it figured out just have to make the connection. Thanks Dave ----

Thanks Gary I was thinking as long as it got power when the head lights were on it was no big deal. Thanks Dave ----

OK after checking documents the wire colors are as follows: LG/Y - same for truck & clock W/P - same for truck & clock BK - same for truck & clock BUT Truck LB/R goes to the dash lights and can be dimmed. Clock BR goes to the running lights but can not be dimmed. Should I hook the BR of the clock to the LB/R of the truck as they both come on with the head lights turned on, I don't see me dimming the dash lights. WWYD? Dave ----

I think I found the end I need I first went thru my parts bins looking for the harness that came with this truck, a Custom F100 bare bones truck. And the plug with matching colors was just a short part out of the main harness. I then went back to the truck, it has a Ranger F100 harness and has upgrades. Looking at the plug that feels like it loops back into the harness I can feel 1 end does go into the harness but the other end kind of goes down some place? Digging deeper I was able to trace it to a plug end at the bottom edge of the dash just right of the ash tray. It has 1 of them trees you push thru a hole and it stays there. After fighting with it I go it free and it now will reach the top of the dash / clock area. It may have been loose when I was working with the dash and thought it went there and put it in the hole. The first plug I found with no color matching wires and tested out to be what I think is the under dash light plug, so I fished that plug down where I got the clock plug from. So now I have to go over the wiring documents to see if I can match uphe 81/82 truck wiring to the 83-86 clock wiring. I did test the pins on the truck side as: LG/Y - hot all the time W/P - hot key acc. & run LB/R - dash lights / dim BK - ground We are getting there Dave ----

What you see is what I have, short pig tail on the clock. So you think being the male & female plugs are together in my picture I just need the Tee with the M & FM truck side and clock at the other end? Being I don't have the truck side of the plugs for the harness I might just tap into the wires as needed, I can un-plug the clock when needed. As for the light group I am sure the truck (Ranger model) did not come with the under dash lights that I could find when I had the dash with harness out for repair. Guess I will need to go over the documentation really good to see how the 2 systems are wired. Wonder if my old harness has the M & FM plugs I could cut off to make the Tee harness? Thanks again for the help. Dave ----

When I bought my '02 F-350 used it came with a roll-up tonneau cover. I really liked that for a lot of reasons. I like the looks of a truck without a topper and it gives that, clearance for easier loading and load of oversize things (as you mention) plus being able to protect most stuff. The killer for me is that I need to be able to put my dogs in kennels in the bed of the truck. I can do that with an open bed, but I prefer having them covered, especially since they are usually sharing the bed with hunting gear or luggage, or camping gear or something. So I'm stuck with using a topper. But I think you'll like the tonneau. Last Wed/thru/fri I took the truck to work, 30 miles each way and ran great. Also took the trash to the dump on Sat. in the rain. On the way home Fri I hit HF and picked up a $100 transmission jack. Trying to use a floor jack by my self swapping T18 for the NP435 is asking for trouble! I also ran into a NC chapter FTE member in the parking lot and he was able to look over the bed of my truck. He picked up a 80's flare side to flip but the bed has no wood and the bed side lips are gone. He also has a 80's parts truck with a 95 flare side bed want to hook up with him to see what he has and is willing to part with. Being the truck was good figured I would tinker some. The behind the seat storage would move when start / stopping. I picked up Velcro weeks ago so got that "stuck" to the back wall and will not move but can pull the Velcro to remove the unit. On a roll I wanted to look into why the dome light did not work? Looking it over I found I cut the wire going up the pillar to the light of the old truck harness. I also cut the wire from the harness I was using bbut both parts were long enough to splice together after I used a test light and the truck side had power when it should! After the splice was done the light did not work? Moved my test light to the dome light and hit it when trying to find ground and I now have a dome light, just need to get a lens for it. That is were I should have stopped! I picked up a clock off Ebay and figured easy install. Remove radio bezel find plug on truck side plug it in, bezel back and all would be good .... NOPE! Pulled radio looking for plug, still can find it. Pull gauge bezel so I can pull dash pad to find plug, still cant find it. So truck dash is pulled apart sitting in the house garage, were I said no work would be done. I think I found the wires just waiting to see if my thinking is right and if so how to go about wiring the clock in. I started a post on "clock wiring part II" Dave ----

Shaun first let me say thank you for your help. Is you truck 83-86? Looks like it from the wire colors. With fresh eyes today I may have found what I was looking for? This clock harness is a Tee or "Y" into the truck harness right? Would you need to unplug the truck harness to plug in the clock harness? What I am saying is I found the right color wires in a plug but this plug is connected to another plug of the same colors, a pass thru type deal. (AC harness is done this way, unplug the main harness and plug in the AC harness and that keeps the "link" like before) If so then half the battle is won and on to the next. So I have the right truck side wires for 81/82 truck at this plug connection. W/P - hot run / acc. LG/Y - head light switch dome light. LB/R - dash light dim BK - ground So how do I mate them to a 83-86 clock that has different color wires? LG/Y - hot run / acc. W/P - head light switch dome light? (this wire & the lg/y are twisted together I guess from repair & testing?) BK - ground BR - exterior running lights Dave ----

When I was doing the custom gauges and dash wiring on my Javelin I did use the Velcro server wraps. I would use them over the colored wire ties because every time you need to lay a new wire or reroute it you need to cut the wire tie. With the Velcro you can just undo it move the wire(s) and make it tight again. I then used the spiral type wire loom to hold it together when I removed the Velcro. When you get to a place wires go in a different direction you can just "spiral" around it. I also use the spiral on the fog / driving lights under the hood of my flare side, I can take a picture. Split loom has it's place like maybe under hood or down the frame rail to the rear lights. As for electrical tape youcan use it to hold the harness together in place of Velcro or wire ties but is not great for wrapping the full harness. When it gets hot the sticky un-stickies. There is a pressure type tape made just for this wiring harness, I will see if I can find it. Dave ----

To low is what I am thinking. When I installed my garage seal when closing the hood I heard a noise? After opening & closing to see what it was it turned out to be the rubber rubbing the hood to seal LOL Dave ----

Good to hear you got it running and home. I like Interstate Batteries but hard to find around here when you need one and the auto zone is only 2 miles down the road. BTW if the light were left on for a short time killed the battery it was junk. The one that came with my truck was maybe 5 years old. when building the truck I did not have the dash bezel in place so the head lights, not installed or running lights, just LED dash lights killed the battery. I put the charger on it, type garages have, for a few hours and was able to start it. A few days later I had the key on testing wires in the dash for the radio and the battery went dead again. The testing was not long but the battery was junk. On the hood seal are you using the garage door bottom seal or LMC etc. seal? Cant beat the garage door seal for $$ and how it works. Dave ----

I did some searching and even looked at the clock documents & wiring and have an issue. Let me start with the clock I got off Ebay. I believe it is the 83-86 clock based on the wire colors from the documents and the pig tail with the clock. LG/Y - hot run / acc. W/P - head light switch dome light? (this wire & the lg/y are twisted together I guess from repair & testing?) BK - ground BR - exterior running lights Now the truck side (2/1982) and the part that has me stumped. I can only find 1 plug and it is down by the radio not up near the clock area. It is a 3 pin prong plug with 4 wires going into it. PK/R - hot with door open BR - hot with lights turned on BK/LB & BK/DB - hot with the inside dome light on and door open (I think) So I think the plug I found is for the under dash lights based on how the wires get power. Now there was talk of the clock is plugged into a "Y" harness that plugs into the under dash light plug and does the lights & clock is this right? If so where does the clock get 12 volts all the time to keep time & date? I also know I said I could make a harness. I think if I have the clock wiring right I can find the wires needed on the truck side and could I use the plug / wires I found and just run 12 volts to clock? BTW it sucks pulling apart a truck that was together and no noises when driving As always thanks for any help you can give me Dave ----

Ray I am a huge SW fan, yall are going to make me get another truck so I have a flare side and a styleside. I like the red poster but it is missing a little white and a rear fuel door Yes the black truck was stunning and I am sure the silver one will be even better. Dave ----

Dave just helped me remember that my truck was a non a/c w/ 300 six which explains the small radiator. As far as how I can tell, you can see that his upper mount was on the inner position based on the discoloration, which means he has the smaller radiator and support. :nabble_smiley_good:I did see that also but was thinking I might have missed something. As you can see and you did, the supports are set up to use either top mount and I think the bottom is the same way, just move the mounts to the outer holes, cut the opening larger and bolt it in. Dave ----

On the wheel pattern that is what I found between my 2 trucks, 1 had power brakes the other did not (5x4.5 pattern). I also found the 5x5.5 had the larger kingpins, they came in 2 sizes for 80-83? trucks so the beams on out as a whole do swap but parts between them do not, ask how I know No power steering also, don't know if I have see one without power steering. I would think it would be easy enough to get a power box, the drag link as it may be different and maybe the lower part of the steering shaft too? You could use the pump that comes on the v8 you get. $500 for a running motor I guess is not bad. Is that from carb to oil pan and all the stuff on the front of the motor, P/S pump, alt, AC if it had it and the brackets for all this? Only think you need to watch for is the sump on the oil pan if it is in the right place, front/rear, for the truck. Being it came from a van you may be ok. With a 30 day return you would need to get it running pretty quickly. Could you come up with the flywheel & clutch parts and reuse your trans to get it on the street before the 30 days? I see the trans is listed as a 4sp OD Clark (SROD) not a great trans but should be ok with the v8 as they did come with them IIRC. I cant make out the rear axle code so don't know the ratio but guessing it is a 9" Ford as both of my 81's were. Dave ----

How can you tell the size radiator from the pictures he posted? AFAIK the support openings come in 2 sizes small for non-AC trucks and large for AC trucks. Both of my trucks were 300 six trucks but 1 had AC (large opening) and the other did not (small opening). The only other was for diesel IIRC. Now the radiators did have different mounts in the later years. His look to be like both of mine were, the bottom tank sat in rubbers on either side and the top had rubbers in brackets that fit the top tank and a metal bracket went over that. The later years the radiator had tabs on the side of the plastic tanks and rubber washers & bolts held it to the support. I don't remember the supports in my 1981 trucks to take the later tab mount radiator, that one was held in with wire on my truck. Dave ----

That is only 1 part of the 3pc? brackets needed to mount the radio. Dave ----

I see the truck does not have power brakes. Do you know what the wheel bolt pattern is? 5 on 5.5 or 5 on 4.5? I think its 5x5.5. Also does the truck have power steering? Dave ----

Alex, welcome again to the forum. Post up a picture of the cert. sticker from the drivers door frame so we can run the numbers to see just how that truck left the factory. I don't see why you cant do this project in stages. Motor first, 302 / 352, and reuse the transmission just so you can "have fun" till you find a different trans. I would not go with a NP435 / T18 / T19 as they are all truck trans and shift slow as a truck trans does. I think the ZF5 is also a little to much of a truck trans to have fun with. I would look for the M5-R2 like Cory/Rembrant has in his truck as it sounds like it shifts well and can be a fun trans on the street. It is a 5sp with over drive. The other would be a WC T5 (WC=world class) like used in the Mustangs. Now if you hammer on the T5 (or any trans) it will not last as you do have it in a heavier truck but I know of a guy that has one behind a AMC 390 in a AMC Machine and it is heaver and way more power than a 302. I don't know how hard he is on it but its been in the car for years and he drives it all over. I also have a WC T5 with hop up parts in it in my 70 AMC Javelin with a AMC 360 but not on the street yet. As for the motors back in the day it was $1 a CID and up for low miles not clue what they go for now days but what you listed I would say is far. I did not know they did compression & oil testing, they would show a motor is good or bad if you could trust the testing. Most of the time you were on your own and if you found the motor bad they would send you another or money back, you ate the $$ for the R&R and any oil, etc. that went into it. Thinking back on the stage deal and your trans. I wonder if with the 302/351 the trans has to be moved back some and then other things need to be "adjusted"? Then again the 302/351 might be longer in the front and the trans stays where it is? Dave ----

Being I have done the head light relay harness it should be high up on the list and you can do this and keep it out of sight if you really want to. You can hardly see mine and I was not even trying to hide it. If I had a type of clutch that needed the fire wall brace that would be another high up on the list. I now have the pedals and thinking of getting the brace (or 2) to have on hand if I ever need it. I don't know what this door brace is? Dose someone have a link to a post that may explain it? I had Cibie H4 bulb lights in another truck and never again. Low beam you could not tell were on and high was not any better than a holagen sealed light. Dave ----

Not on but for the truck Took a weekend trip with the wife to pickup a NP435 transmission to replace the T18 in my Flare Side. I say weekend trip as it was 600 miles 1 way. When I have time I have to clean it up and make sure it is good to install. Dave ----

I did need one a while back but Jonathan was kind enough to send me one from Arizona to replace the one I had that was broken in two. Another very common rust item. Not sure how much of a need there is for them Ron, but I'm sure you'd sell a few. I think that was the only bracket on the bed not rusted to the point I could not use it. My brother also sent me a set with the boards when he sent the gate w/chains & lights w/brackets. I would like to see how you go about making the parts you do. At one point in my life I was thinking of doing something like this when a person doing this same thing passed away and no one pick up where he left off. Just was not the right time for me then. Dave ----

Also check the oil pan sump if in the right place as that may kill this swap. Dave ----