FuzzFace2

Thanks guys today is the first time I took a closer look at the stick. I wonder if it will clear the seat but it must if it came from an 84 truck and it was said they should fit 80-86 trucks then. Thanks again Dave ----

Truck is looking good Cory. Black "RangerXLT" did not know they came in black? Week or so ago I was given a red carpet from an auto truck. Buddy power washed it before I got it I then hung it up and beat the heck out of it to get a lot of dirt & sand out of it. I then used the Dyson pet vacuum on it and pulled a lot more dirt & sand out. It also rained a few times when sitting outside. Today I beat it some more and vary little dirt & sand came out so I laid it out and washed it with a scrub brush and dish soap. A good rinse and hung it back up to drip dry. I will not be installing it till I do the transmission swap sometime in April. I then hit the garage and worked on cleaning the grease & dirt off the NP435 transmission. Scraped the heavy stuff off with a putty knife then used a wire brush and air to get more of it off then a washing with some old left over gas I had from when I did the motor & transmission in the truck now. Close up of the numbers / letters There is a plate on the PTO side held on with 2 of the PTO bolts I forgot to get a picture of so I could find out what information it can give up. After washing and a "VHT Rebuild" (paint job) Note the strange shifter stick? I don't think I have seen one like it before? The knob was glued on and I had to cut it off to get the boots off and prep it for paint. It is a pressed on knob so going to have to come up with something when the time comes. I also think it come over to far to the left but will not know till installed in the truck. Dave ----

IIRC the 70's Bronco had duel tanks and it was smaller. I don't remember what the sizes were for either one. Could not find pictures of them but here isa site that lists parts for the 2 tanks. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/Bronco_Fuel_Tanks Dave ----

That will definitely come in handy Over the past few months I've left a handful of messages with Littlefuse tech support to ask them about the smart isolator and if they had any warnings about charging like this but haven't ever received a return phone call. I called NOCO last week and explained how the smart isolator worked. In short, the gentleman I spoke to said that all the charger cared about was what was between the positive and negative lead. So hook up the two leads to each battery and it won't care if the isolator has them joined or not. He said the charger were smart enough to identify the batters individually. Then gen2mini can handle batteries up to 120Ah per bank so that will have to be considered. A quick search is showing the standard group 65 battery topping off at 75Ah and the largest yellowtop at 72. They do have some info on their site: https://no.co/support/series-and-parallel-charging Dave - that's a good idea on the visor or the drivers mirror. Simple and effective. What was nice going over the mirror beside you would see it, but if it snowed you could grab the cord there and follow it to the truck plug pulling it out of the snow and sticking it out of the way for a plow to come by or shoveling. Dave ----

There is also a small rubber hose going to a vent valve. See the picture below there is a hole just this side of the filler tube neck. Here is another of mine when I first started taking the truck apart. I'd make sure that the tank is empty or as empty as possible, and lower it down as much as you can before disconnecting everything. I think the strap bolts are like 2" long, so there is a little travel there. The electrical connector just pulls off (lift up on it). The little rubber hose on the vent valve might be hard to remove...I just chopped all that stuff off because I was replacing it anyway. When I was at the point of working on the fuel tanks I did not have the bed on the truck. and being empty it was easy work. For me I worked from the tank to the doors to make sure all was connected. I did need to replace the float on the new sender in the rear tank. That is when I found out it would not be easy (if it could at all?) to drop the tank with the filler hose still hooked to the tank. For me I was able to drop it enough to pop the sender out, swap the floats and put every thing back up in place. Cant say on the side tank. As for the inner tube with the hose hooked to the door end you should be able to see the inner tube and fit it into place. On the tank end fit inner to the tank then the outer hose. It will not be fun I would look into pulling the bed if I had to deal with hooking the tube & hose back up. Unless you can sneak the hose & tube hooked to the tank between bed & frame then deal with the door end, that maybe easier? Dave ---- ps I did not want to remove my bed as the truck was just painted and put back together and did not want to maybe scratch the fresh paint. I also did not have any way to lift the flare side bed like you do on a style side bed.

On the block heater cord on work truck where it was plugged in at the radiator the cord was run over the drivers side mirror so you would see it when getting in to start. My work truck now has it under the drivers door, again you see it getting. On my diesel I was the only one to drive it so not a big deal but I also parked it so I would have to walk pass where it was plugged in. Maybe for you if the above does not work something that hangs from the sun visor blocking the view saying the block heater plugged in? Dave ----

I don't think anyone makes that so when in there on the corner you have to make that part and most likely the rear cab cross member that ties into the rocker. Dave ----

Why does every one take a close up pictures of something and we cant tell what it is or how to go about help fix it. I have no clue what I am looking at in that picture so cant help. Oh I did floors, rockers, rear door posts, cab corners, inner / outer left door bottom and half the firewall. I think I can help on the fix if you want. Dave ----

Here is a picture This is from my rear tank on what I had to do for the filler & vent, Dave ----

Welcome to the fun From what I see of your truck it looks nice. You got the white color right but the blue? Everyone has a blue truck Red is a better color with the white I am also part of the FOG group Dave ----

Not to the truck but for it. I had a bunch of pictures (170) printed up of my build over the 4 years to put into an album so when at shows I can display it. This way if someone asks they can see I did all the work and none was farmed out and just how I did the repair or custom part. Walgreen's drugs had a special 75+ prints for .09 each that ended yesterday other wise would have been .23 each print. Just need to find an album that will hold all the pictures LOL Dave ----

What works even better and you don't even have to pull the squirter off (Holley carb anyway). I have a set of wire filler gauges that are bent at a 90* that I was able to fit down in there and poke it thru the opening in the squirter to open it up again. BTW mine would get plugged from gas that dried as I did not use the car a lot and would sit for months between starts. And yes it would be hard to push the accel pump when plugged. Dave ----

I went to school with brothers & cousins that lived in waterside just around the corner and 2 of them worked there. Vulcan even sponsored 1 if our 4x4 race team Jeeps, Beer Nuts of Nuts Off Road Racing. Kelsey Paving who I worked for back in 83, shared the lot with Vulcan. Before I moved down here to NC I heard times were changing there. Sign of the times they say? Dave ----

Is there and company that is good to get or make my own. Looked at them, Think I can make one. I have not looked into it (yet) as my truck, 81 F100, uses linkage for the clutch. If I ever go with a juice clutch I would do the brace so the firewall will not crack. I think Jeff's Bronco Grave Yard has them from what I seen posted. Maybe someone else knows who might have them? Dave ----

I saw it but did not "see" it as I went back to read it. I do miss Vulcan Scrap Metal as I have not found anything like it down here Dave ----

I must have missed it Dave ----

I just went back over your first post. Where are you finding all the parts: Compressor hoses valve drier anything I missed? for $220???? Just the compressors I have been looking at are that much. Mine needs to be V belt driven Sanden compressor Dave ----

You’ve mentioned things that have me curious since I didn’t know the two different refrigerants required different size components. Since my truck was already changed to 134a before swapping to these newer components do you think I can simply go ahead with my plan? Both the evap and the condensor already had 134a in them. If it worked fine then I don't see why not to do what you posted. 134a does not cool as well as R12 and why it needs a little bigger condenser to pull the heat out of the 134 before put back into the system to cool. This is why the new condensers are a little bigger and think the way they flow may have changed too? On my system I had to replace the condenser, pinched tube and would not flow. Any time the system is open then yes drier, valve replace is what I would do. I also want to flush my evap to make sure it is clean as I don't know what shape it was in before I got the truck. You should be ok with your hoses, I may have to replace mine because of the different year system components I am using to make my system work, other wise I would most likely try and use what I have. Dave ----

I'm a big fan of the M5OD 5spd swap in the 1/2 ton trucks. It was a really easy swap on my truck, but my truck had a factory hydraulic clutch so that makes things a little bit easier. Converting a mechanical clutched truck to hydraulic is not a big deal...you just need the pedal set, fire wall brace and then the rest is pretty easy. I fixed it for you Dave ----

Jonathan, Just to switch gears that truck looks to be a CC truck yes? You are looking at pick up truck beds and you did say that the bed would be shorter but I thought the frame widths were different between the 2 frames? I guess if the CC truck was skinnier you could just drill new holes in the bed but you would need to add a spacer (pipe?) between the bed and the bed cross member so you would not crush the bed floor when the bolts were tightened. Good luck on the project Dave ----

The 435 measures 4.837". Thanks that is also close to the 4.848 that I am looking for. My plan and trans swap is put on hold till my son and his family find a place to live as the wife & I most likely need to help out with $$ Dave ----

I should add I had to replace the condenser so I know how it fits. I am also going from a York to the Sanden compressor. I think I will need new hoses as I dont know what I have will fit the compressor? I will also be replacing the drier & orfice valve. Dave ----

AFAIK the things you listed are pretty close to each other to not make a difference other than if you went from a York compressor to a Sanden. The change was to the 2 parts you are not changing, condenser & epav. Because of the 134a used and not working as good as R12 the condenser & epav. were made a little larger. You can not get an R12 condenser for our trucks only the 134a ones but it is not hard to install and from what I here you want the larger condenser. Now you cant put the evap in our housing so I would just get anew one so you know it is clean inside & out. Dave ----

I also heard of "Armstrong heater" When you had no heat in your ______ and your girl was cold she would slide over close to you and you would put your arm around her to keep her warm That was when everything had bench seats. Dave ----

And I have it installed and it still dims at idle but only when I first start it. It hardly spins before the motor starts, but just that little it pulls power from the (new) battery. I think because the ALT is not spinning fast enough and the battery just got power pulled from it is why it happens? Again with in 2 miles I am on the high way for 30+ miles so the battery has time to recharge and I don't see it happening after that. Dave ----