FuzzFace2

Gary, I don't have them in a folder any where as I have them all on my web site. I don't think there is a way to grant access other than full admin. and then I don't know what that would do other than be able to add / remove / add information to the pictures. If there is something you want me to look deeper into let me know and I can see what I can do. Could also be I am stupid LOL and don't know what I am looking at also? Dave ---- Took the truck to work this morning and needing gas I stopped just up the street. Being prices are pretty low and the truck has been 'knocking" I went for the good stuff, high test! 1 tank had maybe 5 gal (front) and the other about 8 gal. (rear) I like to run on the front tank to keep the weight over the rear for a little better ride for as long as I can not that it makes much difference. I could tell right away no more knocking and it ran a whole lot better so I either need to look into the timing or see how it runs on the middle grade gas. This is 10%+ corn mix gas. I also had the seat belt or what ever buzzer sound off for the first time when I started it up to come home. Kind of shocked me but think I will keep it if it stays working. I also gave the truck a quick hose off at 2:30am at work to get the pollen off, it looks a lot better now. Dave ----

Gary, I don't have them in a folder any where as I have them all on my web site. I don't think there is a way to grant access other than full admin. and then I don't know what that would do other than be able to add / remove / add information to the pictures. If there is something you want me to look deeper into let me know and I can see what I can do. Could also be I am stupid LOL and don't know what I am looking at also? Dave ----

I don't know how much a sniffer is at HF or if they sell them but if you cant find leaks with bubbles try the sniffer at the vents in the truck. You said you heard a hiss could the evap have a leak? The sniffer would pick this up. Dave ----

How are you with a welder LOL Could cut the center out in an oval then turn the cut out so it would off set the housing and weld it back in. Dave ----

Thanks guys yep I get to enjoy just about everyday. I took it for the weekly trash run Saturday and then to the parts store next town over and on the way got 2 thumbs up and it is dirty from driving it in the rain and all the pollen. There was to be a show just down the road from me that I wanted to go to and then think a cruse even closer to the house but was canceled, maybe next year? Dave ----

Gary yes I do its the top link in my signature. The bottom one is of the parts truck and I have a few from it in the album so people can see what partsI had to work with from the parts truck. Like the nose, dash & wiring, rear gas tank and lines, bed for the floor. I also gave away some parts from it that I knew I would not use, tail lights, rear step bumper, LWB frame and thing a few other things. Dave ----

Yesterday I picked up new oil & temp senders, Tstat & gasket, oil & filter as I am sure I will be home this week again. Also a few weeks ago I had 170 pictures of the 650+ I took when building the truck and had them printed. I put them in a 240 photo album that I can display at shows showing all the work done BY ME when they ask who did the work. I have guys at work saying clean truck or asking who did the work and are a little shocked that I say I did it, cab off frame, over 4 years in my garage and yes even the paint. Now I can show them Dave ----

Looks good Cory. The red I used from SEM was a little brighter but because I was repainting everything I did not worry about it matching. Dave ----

I agree, and feel that the RTV would be more than adequate to keep the bearing in place. Or a small wooden wedge driven in and the other shaft would keep it from falling out. On the factory set up is it not plastic? If so I could see why they would not went the shaft to spin in side the bearing as it would wear down the plastic inner race. But as said I cant see the shaft wearing because the bearing race was not spinning with the shaft. But that is me. How have you guys known that bearing needed to be replaced? Was there play in the shaft and you traced it to the lower bearing or was it making noise? I never looked that close at either one of mine as I did not feel a need. Dave ----

Nope none but everyone thought so because of the last name. Don't even know if his last name was the same as ours LOL I am related to Bill's Service (Parkers cousins) that have shops in the Shippan (Mcggee ave.) area. You have to have seen all the tow trucks & flat beds they have? The last I knew they had a shop (body?) on Noroton ave Darien next to the Getty station so they would have towing rights in Darien. My son is closer to his age cousins than I am with mine of my age. One passed away after I moved down here and I did not find out till it was to late to go up and see them. So if you were class of 80 we may have crossed paths? IIRC at the time they put every other year class together. I did not pay that much attention to other class mates just to school work and then off to my job to pay for my tools of the trade. Dave ----

I had to look up the brake controller as I have not seen that type before. I am old school and like the "box" with a lever mounted to the bottom of the dash as that is all I have towed with. Ok got it on the lights ....... Morse code messages LOL Dave ----

I took auto shop, top of my class (78) and because I was not going to collage I turned down a scalar ship for a bond. I also knew how to do body work before I started HS and was teaching others a little of it. My dad also bought a shop just before I got out of school that we were to run "together" but you never work for family LOL Now I wished I went with tool and die as I enjoyed that when I went thru the 2 week class. Also had an uncle that was a T & D maker. Did good drafting / blue print reading but penmen ship was not great (still not) for that class. Not that is what I wanted to do it but you needed to take it for T & D. I was also good in the other hands on building trades but did not care much for them so never really looked at them. When my son was trying to get in they kept saying "no openings". Then a few years later it shut down because lack of students? Think shortly before I moved down here I heard they opened it backup. All that was a L O N G time ago LOL Dave ----

I think it is bad enough to not need to use the dye and light for 1 of them. It looks to be coming from the lifter cover at the back. I took up on the bolts and hoped it would stop but I checked it after the drive home from work and seen it is still leaking. I installed a new gasket along with the valve & oil pan, so maybe the cover is bent? I also seen the front cross member has oil and some dirt on it so need to look closer at that. If it is the front seal I think I seen the cover has to come off as it comes in from the back side I think? I think the oil from the bell housing is from the lifter cover being blown back as it is above it back there. But when I do the trans swap I can look closer at the rear main but that looked good when I did the other gaskets so did not touch it or front seal. Projects are never done Dave ----

I am still catching up pull the throttle cable off and see if that helps. I should read ALL the posts Good to hear you got it running. Other than the EFI exh. manifolds to help on flow I like the low RPM power the 300 has and why I stayed with the factory intake & carb. With the slow shifting T18 and the almost 1000 RPM drop between shifts I don't see the need to up the RPM power level at this point. The driving I do I am shifting at about 1500 RPM between 2nd & 3rd and 2000 RPM between 3rd & 4th(1:1) I don't see the need to go higher for normal driving. When the trans will not shift into 4th, bad trans, I have to force it back into 3rd and have gone as high as 3000 RPM. Cant wait till I can swap this trans out for the NP435 and hope it shifts better. If you want more gears with the Advance Adaptor Range Splitter you can split each gear and can be used with 4WD. A 4sp trans turns in to an 8sp with 2 reverse gears then add the transfer and that is another 4 forward and 1 reverse . 12 forward and 3 reverse, wait did I do that right? 16 forward & 4 reverse? Either way that is a lot of gears. Dave ----

I have tinnitus pretty bad too. That’s what prompted the visit to ear Doctor. The hearing aids help with the ringing. Up date: I had to work yesterday, first and only day this week and did 2 loads of LP. When I left for work at 2ap it was cool so had the heat on going to work but did turn the control to MAX AC for a little and the air started off hot as the heater core was hot but it did cool off. I also had it on MAX AC for the ride home and the air stayed cool the whole way home. It would have been nice to have the core bypassed in vent but for now this works and I know come summer and have AC it will be on MAX AC most of the time. Thanks for the help to make this happen. Now to look into why the oil is still leaking from this motor Dave ----

Did you "cook" the intake before painting it? I say this because oil will get into the pours of the alum. and look clean. Then you paint it put it on the motor and as soon as it heats up the oil will come out pushing the paint off. You want to run the manifold thru a few bake cyl.of heat & cool to get all the oil off. Wash with carb or brake clean and bake again. Think I did 350* for 15 min. let cool and repeat 3 times before I was happy. A final clean with brake / carb cleaner let sit for an hour and paint. Oh and if using the hose oven use it when the wife will be out for a long time so you can air the house out as it will stink when baking. Dave ----

BTW can you post a picture of the firewall on the other side of the booster kind of where the wires come out? We might be able to tell you the ones that can come out. Dave ----

I could be wrong but I though the feed back system was a stand alone system? If so you should be able to follow the wires that went to the carb and maybe the dist. TFI unit back thru the firewall and pull it as a whole unit. Then you should be left with the main harness all trucks came with. Not this main harness did have some wires with plugs that were for other options your truck did not come with. My 81's were not a feed back but they were not top of the line options either, Custom & Ranger F100's. I used the Ranger harness in my truck because of the duel tank option. This was a different main harness not an add on like the AC would be. I think all harness had trailer relay power feed by the booster. Also by the radio area plugs for the radio (door speaker wires were a add on harness), clock and under dash light plugs are there. Again it is what I found from rebuilding my truck with a lot of help from the good people on here. Dave ----

Drivers side? You from down under That looks to be the right side being it has the 3 openings for AC HVAC box, I know it well I did not have that shield on either of my 81's both with 300's I don't know if it had screw holes there or not, don't think so but will check later when I got out of the house for fresh air. Dave ---- Dave, you are absolutely correct! My bad. It's ok I just didn't want you looking on the wrong side of the truck Dave ----

I have to ask what was the reason behind the switches for the Hi / Low beam lights? I know I seen a post of you taking about mounting them I think it was but why have them? Did I miss that? On the trailer brake control is that what came with your controller and you just mounted it there? Is there a way to apply the trailer brakes when driving other than pushing the button? If not then it looks like it is on or off and nothing in between. Dave ----

I did not know a comment about Nitrogen would blow up like it did Man do I feel under schooled If it was not for the state tech school I went to for high school I don't know if I would have finished high school. I also knew that collage was not for me. As for Argon or Nitrogen? When I worked at the hospital, Nitrogen was used on our chillers to check for leaks after they were opened up as it was a dry gas. We also had a lot of it on hand, 24+ tanks at any given time, as the OR's used it to power air tools in the rooms when needed. It was also used in some of the labs. If we had any Argon it was for the TIG welder, does it use Argon? in the shop that the plumbers had access to not us in HVAC. Could NOS be used to pressurize a AC system to look for leaks? I have a little left over from my 4x4 racing days I could use if it is a dry gas. Would just need to make sure the tube is not in the liquid when used is all. Dave ----

Drivers side? You from down under That looks to be the right side being it has the 3 openings for AC HVAC box, I know it well I did not have that shield on either of my 81's both with 300's I don't know if it had screw holes there or not, don't think so but will check later when I got out of the house for fresh air. Dave ----

Also there are a few of us with metal ribbed floors on our flare sides Started as a 8 foot style side bed How well will your floor stand up to stuff in the bed? Will something hard mark it like normal wood would? I do love your floor. Dave ----

I love this truck! Looks great, and you've done an amazing restoration in a relatively short amount of time. Welcome to FOG (Flare side Owners Group) Look its not blue Most of the flare sides we see are blue, not many of us with a different color. You have done a great job on the truck and love the bed floor. I am helping someone and we talked about using a composite wood but don't know if it would look that nice. I did see in 1 picture the wood was tongue & groove and that saw the board tight to each other and thinking that will not work then remembered composite wood so may not be an issue. I take it the metal strips are for in bed tie downs, I like them as we don't have any thing to tie off to easy. Dave ----