FuzzFace2

WOW We know the 80 had different wire pin out but I wonder if you could use 81/84 (less the diesel's & hot fuel handling) for a swap or upgrade (aux tank or gauges)? For 83/84 the diesel & HFH did the trucks come with gauges only? Other wise you would have 8 different harnesses for them years if I count right. I guess I was lucky I had an almost match for my harness swap in the 81. Both had gauges and 1 with & 1 without aux tank, I used the aux tank harness. Dave ----

I guess it could be either or? Being I did not have the ALT from the parts truck, only the wiring harness and only had the ALT from my truck but no harness (someone took wire and crimped ends on and then to the ALT. So for all I know that could be the wrong ALT? Being I did not have the right plug for the ALT and did not want to cut the plug off the harness I took 2 short wires and crimped ends on to make an adaptor of sorts. This way if the ALT fails I can hit the parts store for a replacement that will be P&P. Then again I may then go for the 3G ALT? BTW the only time I see the head lights dim a little at idle is when I first start the truck and back out of the garage, heater fan on low & radio is on also. I let it idle while the garage door is closing before driving off. 1/4mile down the road and stop for the light I don't see them dim then it is on the high way for 30+ miles. I can live with that. Dave ----

No rush I should got out to mine and start cleaning the 435 and get a measurement off it also. Maybe I will try to get out later. Dave, I went from my 1984 3spd manual to a 1991 M5OD-R2, and the output slip yoke from the 3spd fit fine. I guess my point is, I assumed they were all the same. I measured it...teeth were the same, OD was the same, and it fit fine. Been running it even since. I would guess the 100/150 trucks being light duty might have the same yoke. That just got me thinking when I get out to the garage to see if the drive shaft w/yoke from the parts truck that had the SROD will fit the NP435? I will have to see if that trans bell is removable on the SROD and if so what the front bearing retainer index measures for S&G? Thanks guys Dave ----

Welcome! Looking forward to this upcoming post as even in just the two photos it looks like some cleanup and mods were done. Interested in seeing what all you have going on. I wonder if the plugs could be different between the different AMP ALT's? I say this because the 2 trucks - both 81's with 300 six (1 AC 1 not) had different plugs on the ALT between them. Now I don't know if the ALT I had was the right one for the truck or not, it had wires replaced in place of the harness. Where the harness I used from my parts truck would not plug into the ALT and I did not have the ALY to match the harness. Dave ----

If you could measure the 435 when you can so I see if it matches mine. It is that "4.847" measurement I am more concerned about. That is close to the 4.848 and the other is 5.125 it could be on what I am looking into. I have a plan and that is the part I need more than the output yoke as I have the 435 yoke. If I don't follow thru on my plan I could just do a swap if the T18 does not fit. Thanks Dave ----

I can tell you what I have found when I swapped the harness between my 2 - 1981's both with 300 six. The cab harness (across the dash) also goes out into the engine bay on both sides of the firewall. The left side plugs into the rear frame rail harness, DSII, washer pump, and the lights / horn on that front corner. The right side plugs into blower motor, plug for the charging system, and the lights on that front corner. I can tell you if the truck has duel tanks this is a different cab & rear frame rail harness. Add on harness: AC is a plug in by unplugging the blower wire? loop. Radio speaker wire harness. Clock may have a short extension harness. That is what I remember when doing my "rewire" job. In a few weeks I hope to pull apart 2 trucks (83 & maybe 84) to make 1 good one. The good one started as a 302 feed back system that has be butchered, Truck shows AC & speed control (on wheel but nothing else?) and power door lock switches but don't know if this is true? This full harness will be pulled and the next installed. This truck roof rotted off, has a 300 six, AC & speed control both under hood and inside. No cut wires that we can see and why we plan to use this harness in the other truck and extend the needed wires to work with a 302. Because I did the harness swap in my truck I said I would do this swap (with help) on his trucks. I can report back what all I find if that will help. Dave ----

I don't remember any AMC having "XLT" badging. SX, DL, SST and AMX on the 71-74 Javelins as the 68-70 AMX was a model is what I remember off the top of my head. Dave ---

I may have jumped on this great deal for the NP435 with out thinking it all the way thru I don't want to start the swap and find out I cant complete it for lack of more parts needed. The 2 transmissions are close if not the same length face to tail. Both have slip output yokes and that is 1 question Do they both use the same yokes? T18 is a 1981 the NP435 I think was a 1984. I do have the NP slip yoke but if I don't need to swap in on the drive shaft great but not a big deal. The next question is a big deal. The front bearing retainer would they be the same? I need to know if the out side dia. that index in the bell housing would be the same? I can get the measurement from the NP as it is on the floor but the T18 is still in the truck and I am using it. Someone have a T18 on the floor they can measure the retainer index dia.? I ask because my 1981 uses linkage for the clutch, the 84 is hyd. I do have the 84 bell housing & fork but I don't know if I could use it with the linkage setup? I would like to stay with the linkage as I rebuilt it and works good. I do have the hyd. pedal assy. but would need to get the master w/rod, hose & slave and the not fun job of installing it all. My clutch assy. is also new and has may be 1000 miles and would like to keep it. I think the spline count is the same between the 2 transmission but not sure? what you say? I believe the bell housings are the same length so the input shafts should be the same length between the 2 yes? Think I missed anything? The speedo will swap as per Gary and looks to be a go. Thanks Dave G.

When I was in Walmart getting some things for the next "dash project" I picked up a fire extinguisher. I been meaning to get one since the truck was on the road, best to have and not need, and I plan to hit a few shows and some you have to have one placed by the left rear tire. It fit nicely in the behind the seat storage. I also got the tail gate letters yesterday. I need it to warm up so I can wash the truck, have been driving it in the rain like today for work, and it needs to be warm to install as per the paper. Dave ----

They are for the Flare Side chrome bumper. I was told the late 60's (bump side) brackets are different but I did not check that closely. A buddy had the bump side and he is building a 84 flare side and wants to run the rear chrome bumper and looked at his bump and saw it would not work. Think he said the brackets came straight out, think like the step bumper one do for our truck, where the flare side ones swing out and up. I also did not look what bumper his bump side had so if a step that could be why too? Dave ----

Gary did you forget the picture Alex, any way to post up a picture or 2 of this plate? if this plate is ALUM they have been known to get holes in them from the gases and cause a vacuum leak / poor running motor. Dave ----

Think I will remove the 1 I still have and see if the welder at work has a piece of scrap I can use to make a new one. Being it is a flat plate with holes and a slot it cant be that hard to make just some time is all. Unless someone does have an extra they would like to sell? Then again based on the picture and the years / models that use that setup if I can ever get my butt to JY or 2, I might find one along with the compressor manifolds I need to hook the hoses to the compressor. Thanks. Dave ----

BTW the 390 / 428 full dress motors were no fun doing water pumps on either Mom / dad had a 68 wagon with one in it they used to pull the travel trailer and I had to do the WP on took 2 days to do. I told them never again! Dave ----

I got my senders from A1 Auto years ago and with 5 gallons in the tanks the needle come up to the E mark and when full is over the F mark and I am happy with that. I did have the rear float sink shortly after I put them in service. I used the old sender float and has been good since. I did match each new sender to the old ones to make sure they were close to the same. I was sure the old ones were factory senders. I don't see why you could not measure from the tanks flange to the bottom of the tank and do the same on the sender(s) to see if they reach close to the bottom. Did you install the filter sock? Wonder if that could have something to do with how low the level gets before it will not pull fuel? I thought both new senders had the filter socks but when I pulled the rear for the float it did nothave the sock on it. Because I did not drop the tank all the way out I had no way to look inside to see if it fell off and was floating around inside or not. Dave ----

Man that is the truth on the onion! When I nut & bolted the truck I did not even think of the little plates on the AC bracket That is the wrong picture as my setup is for the 83 or 84 setup IIRC think it is this one. Part 2888 or 19D896 I do have one I can use as a pattern to make one if I have to. I also see the hose support 19B890 that I do not have that might be nice but it is that plate bracket I need more to hold the compressor. The compressor also has what Ford calls manifolds that I for got the part numbers for. I need to look into getting the AC working before it get too hot here. Thanks Dave ----

I knew of the handle part and to push as that is how I have always done it. It is fun doing this when you have the handle pump type guns. I never left the outer tube a little loose to let the air out air always went up the hose & out. Dave ----

At first I was going to say I don't hear the chains rattling on my truck and I use bike inner tube cut and fitted over the chains. Then went over the post and it is not the chains that rattle Vacuum hose over the rods? Dave ----

Lately when I start the truck I get a little belt chirp from the ALT and been to lazy to tighten it up well that changed yesterday. I got around to tighting the ALT belt and in doing so found the top bolt a little loose. It would not tighten up, it goes in from the front because of the EFI manifolds so found a lock washer & nut to get it tight. I also found the PS belt a little loose so tighten it up too. In doing so I found something that will be an issue when I install the AC compressor. 1 of the small mounting plates missing. I heard something a while back hit the bottom of the truck now I know what it was. Thing is I don't remember where this happened so cant go looking for it I adjusted the idle mix as it has been idling a little ruff. About a half turn rich and it is smooth again. Also checked the PCV to see if it is working as I have a "milk shake" under the fill cap and in the dip stick tube. It is working as it should so need to check the Tstat to see if it is getting up to temp or not. Dave ----

Update: Took the wife out for dinner and took the truck and remembered my phone this time. Had to take the pictures across the street at the Big Lots! Dave ----

Lately when I start the truck I get a little belt chirp from the ALT and been to lazy to tighten it up well that changed today. After tanking the trash to the dump I tighten the ALT belt and in doing so found the top bolt a little loose. It would not tighten up, it goes in from the front because of the EFI manifolds so found a lock washer & nut to get it tight. I also found the PS belt a little loose so tighten it up too. In doing so I found something that will be an issue when I install the AC compressor. 1 of the small mounting plates missing. I heard something a while back hit the bottom of the truck now I know what it was. Thing is I don't remember where this happened so cant go looking for it I adjusted the idle mix as it has been idling a little ruff. About a half turn rich and it is smooth again. Also checked the PCV to see if it is working as I have a "milk shake" under the fill cap and in the dip stick tube. It is working as it should so need to check the Tstat to see if it is getting up to temp or not. Dave ----

I have taken my truck to work every day this week other than Friday because it snowed Thru. just after I got home, it was raining a little and had to turn on the wipers. It is the first storm we have gotten with ice / snow and they don't really use salt down here so I have the truck out most of the time, even in the rain. Snow is just about all gone by late Fri. roads pretty much dry so could have taken it out today if it was not so cold. Still need to take trash to the dump so I may load up the truck and take it out yet. I built it to drive not sit in the garage Dave ---- edit: did use the truck to take the trash to the dump and as soon as I pulled out of the drive I remembered I forgot my phone for a photo When there the operator walked around the truck and though he was going to say new truck .... NOPE! He asked where my permit sticker was There is nothing on the front glass where it should be. It ran out on my Durango and the wife keeps forgetting to get a new one. Guess no more sneaking in to dump the trash.

Being we are on dash pads and I at one time looked into repairing the worst one of the 2 I had. First try was a failure and 2nd try was not much better. I was fitting a plastic dash pad cover to it, out of truck, and felt at the time to start to remove some of the padding for a better fit .... failure #3 as the cover did not fit as well as I had hoped. So the cover went on the better of the 2 I had and to tell you unless you really look and know what to look for I don't think you can tell it has a cover and am happy with it. Now what to do with this other pad I have?? I also have a buddy I am helping with a flare side and he also has 2 pads, 1 worst than the other, that will need work before being installed. I am thinking of doing something like this I am thinking of only doing the blanket & rosin, maybe a little filler but no glass as the dash needs a little texture but need to see how that turns out. He got it all smooth with filler & 400 wet sanding then added the texture with the spray on bed liner, why? I dint know when I will get to this but it is a plan I have at this time. Dave ----

Yes was in the body trade. Dealing with metal is a little easier than with wood. Metal you can wipe the panel down with a wax & grease remover, Prep-Sol is what I use. On wood the oil gets pulled into the pours and I don't know what can be used to pull it back out or even it could be? For paint if you think there may still be oil on the panels there is a product called Fish Eye Killer. It is clear but kind of thick like 20-50 motor oil. You add 1 drop to the cup when mixing before spraying. I don't know if that could be used with anything else but used it withal the different types of auto paint back in the day. BTW you cant have any tool oilers in a body shop. They are placed at the wall before the air hose. This tool oil coats the inside of the air hose so it cant be used for body work (air tools like sanders & grinders) as it stays in the hose so we just don't have tool oilers. What do we use you ask? Fish Eye Killer, a few drops in the air tool and hook it up and use it. When it comes out on the panel when using its not to big a deal as the Prep-Sol will clean it off. You also hinted when painting if you do get fish eyes and don't have the killer is to let the coat of paint set up pretty good and do dusting coats till the fish eyes are covered but this could take a while to do. Hope I answered the question Dave ----

Dave, You have the upside on this one for sure. As much as I like the wood for showcase purposes, I sure do like the idea of your bed floor for utility purposes. After all the work I've done to mine...I've basically lost the ability to use it as a truck. I honestly don't mind wrecking the plywood...it's not expensive...but the freshly painted bed and all new steel is what bothers me (the risk of scratching/scuffing/denting it). I'm watching Ken's progress here very closely. Can't wait to see what he does and how it turns out. I do still worry about scratching / denting the side panels & tail gate just not the floor LOL I know sooner or later they will get banged up but trying to make that a lot later than sooner so I am careful when using the bed. Today was the only day I did not take the truck to work this week. We had a snow storm come thru after I go home yesterday and with ice & snow on the roads did not want to risk driving it. Tomorrow is take the trash to the dump and will use the P/U as the roads are pretty clear now. Dave ----

Nice job on the mat. I added 2 strips of peel & seal you get at the big box hardware stores to the inside of each door. I don't know what they were like before this but I like the way the doors sound when you close them. I did not add boom box to the door speakers but they don't sound to bad with just the P&S. I did not add to the outer part of the door as I seen posted it could hold the door panel out. I also did not add it anywhere else, it is a truck so it needs a little road noise LOL I think once I get a carpet installed it will be pretty quiet as it is not too bad now. Dave ----