FuzzFace2

I thought there was a post on the letter colors used with body colors or was that on the other site From the factory the letters where painted on using a rubber roller and why the edges as not sharp like decals. When I pained my truck I looked into painting the letters but was way too much work and could not find the right roller so I went reflective vinyl letters as I did a lot of night time driving and wanted to be seen. I did not think the non-two tone trucks (style side) got pin stripes? I can see maybe molding and not two tone? Yes flare sides if two tone did get pin stripes as there was no moldings for that body style. My truck was a custom and I did find traces of the stripes when doing the body work. Because you can no longer get the flare side stripe kits and was too much work to paint them on I just butted the 2 colors up to each other. I think it looks great. Style side had moldings. No tail gate so dont know what it had, this was a Ranger package. Dave ----

Years ago my brother saw a flare with a step and I asked if to looked to wide for the truck and he said no. I then asked if he know what it was from as there was no info on them and he did not. Some thought maybe a S10 pick up step might work but dont know of anyone that gave it a try to say yes or no on. Looks good just needs to go a little higher to cover the openings for the brackets. Do you have any brackets or you got to come up with them? I knew I would be pulling more than a step bumper could handle so I went with a frame mounted hitch. My truck also came with the normal skinny flare side bumper that I filled in hols a PO driller for the plate and shaved the bumper bolts. Dave ----

Sorry making a mess of this thread It looks like you have the upper part of the flare side neck that bolts to the "box" bolted to the fender. Look at my first pic and you can see the flare side has a clamp up close to the cap like yours. For the outer part I would get some fuel hose U could use to join the upper cap part to EXH piping & EXH piping to the tank. I would make up the EXH piping to run from the cap to tank with all the bends then figure out the vent tube in side. BTW this is the only place I know of the sells the right size hose for the style sides and all the parts store ones are to short. https://www.fillernecksupply.com/ Now you can get the parts store style side hose, think it has a bend or maybe bends? And use the EXH pipe to make it longer to reach? We got to think outside the box when you have a flare side as there is not a lot of support for us Dave ----

Now that I get looking at the pictures of the flare side pipe (1st pic) and the installed set up (last pic) It looks like I might have used a style side metal part of the filler as it looks like there is a clamp down in the middle of the filler? Dont know why I did that other than it fit better than the flare side filler? Could also been the flare side parts might have fit better for the rear tank than anything I had on hand and was then able to use the other parts for the front? All I can tell you is it's been working for 5+ years and 28+k miles so far. Dave ----

Here is the right filler hose for a flare side Dont know if this was the right filler hose at this point as I was just getting parts on the truck to get them out of my way. You can see filler hoses goes over the frame and under the bed when installed. You can also see the plastic vent tube sticking out the end. This is what I ended up with for the front tank. Now I think I used the filler parts from the first picture as they came from a flare side but by the time I got to this point I had the filler parts that were all wrong that came off the truck. I also had the front and rear filler hoses from a style side parts truck so that gave me 4 filler necks to use. 2 from the style side, junk from my truck and the flare side one. I do have a rear tank on my flare side and I used what ever parts I had left to make the filer and vent work for it. I used copper tubing to join the vent tube together to make it long enough. I also used EXH. tubing to join the outer hose together for the same reason. Only thing to remember is the filler hose has to with stand gas, radiator hose will not. So if you need to make a bend and you cant get the hose for this use EXH pipe to make the bend and the hose and clamps to join them. Once the filler hose is in place no one but you (and us if you post it) will know or see it. Yes you do need the vent inside the filler if you want to put any gas in the tank in 1 day. I was lucky that I had the style side and the flare side vents to use to make work. No one makes or sells this plastic tubing. Some have used PEX tubing bent to fit the bends as the vent as gas will not hurt it. Remember what ever you use has to with stand sitting in gas and PEX was tested by sitting in gas for think it was a week? Hope this helps Dave ----

Running a vacuum advance dist.? Maybe when testing tracking down an issue to remove & plug the vacuum? This way the vacuum advance is not messing with you too. Dave ----

You said you were "topping off" how much did you have in the tank before the top off? Where you going to use it mostly up or was the truck going to sit in the drive for weeks? I would not think twice if I was down to say a 1/4 and was going to drive the truck and use it up in a short time. 1/2 and above I would let it sit and not worry. I know if all the the pumps had were E15 and I needed fuel E15 is what I would use and drive on. The other thing to remember the more "E" the leaner the mix so it takes more fuel per gallon to make the same power as lower / no E fuel. That is why "E" carbs have larger jets and passages. EFI can compensate up to a point but carbs cannot as they are "fixed" on the fuel flow. Dave ----

That is a strange one and not even close to the Sept. cut over date for new models If you did not buy the truck new anything could be with the motor but as a guess it was changed for a newer but .......... You say the sender plug has 4 wires, 2 for sender and 2 for the pump. This wiring if you follow it back no splicing, looks factory? If it is a factory electric pump I would think there would be a factory relay under the hood like the factory electric pump trucks. On the gauge what testing have you done? With a test light you need to see what wires do what. Fuel pump should be hot all the time and the sender will blink. I would think the other 2 are grounds but test them too. If you do have a blinking wire that is good. Ground that wire and with the key on the gauge should go to full. Do not do this to long as you can hurt the gauge. This test the wire from sender to the gauge and the gauge. If no blinking or gauge moves when grounded more testing is needed. Dave ----

What parts are you ordering as that may make a difference? I take it you dont know if the truck was early 5/85 or late 5/85 do you? As for the 01/00/85 "I" see it up to 01/00/85 (12/31/84) and after 01/00/85 (01/01/85). Dont know why they would not do "up to 12/84 and after 01/85" in that case? The only other thingI can think of is to order for either before or after and see what fits and return the wrong parts if you can. Then order the early or later parts after that. Good luck Dave ----

When we ground it, it goes to full. It's the second pump we put in so we were having a hard time believing it would be the sender. The gauge works if we turn the key on but when we start it the gauge stops working for the rear tank. Dose this do the same on the front tank too? Wonder if the IGN switch is not making a full connection after it is turned to start? Anything else not work like radio, power windows, etc.? Dave ----

Welcome Kid from a FOG member. Dont think I have ever seen one in white before Would like to hear more about the truck and the plans you have for it. Dave ----

I came relly close to doing the same thing with my truck. Mine being a 81 with factory AC but I swapped compressors to the newer type and that made the hose fittings not work. I was able to get hoses from Auto Zone to work, had to reuse 1 old one, condenser to evap IIRC, but the rest were new. The thing that stopped me from making my own was crimping the fitting on as I would need to buy the tool and only use it the 1 time. It was cheap enough but ..... Dave ----

In 3 weeks I will have a lot more time as I will not need to go to work So if you need a hand for "finish work" I will be around. Dave ----

Being the truck is a 82, from your sig, it would have I believe the big square York compressor. My 81 also used that compressor but I did not have all the motor (300 six) brackets so I went with the newer type compressor but ....... The hose fittings at the compressor were different and if I used hoses that fit the compressor they did not fit the other ends And no you cant change the drier to match the hose as the other side is different to the evap. I dont remember what hoses I used but was able to get a set of Ford hoses from Auto Zone to work. Maybe if you have hoses made then using the newer type compressor would not be bad. Ebay has adapter brackets from York to Saden compressor then just need to deal with hoses. The newer compressor uses less power, runs smoother and is smaller. Yes they do come with V belts think I went with a 84 unit. As Mat said the evap can be changed out easy from the engine bay side as my last go round to get my AC working again I replaced it. As for low / no air flow the heater & Evap coils could be plugged with junk so another reason to pull the box apart for a good cleaning. Sorry I cant be of more help Dave ---- ps I think I am using a blue valve and when my system works it will freeze you out.

It looks like you are at that stage where it is the little things that are showing up now When done it will be a sweet ride Dave ----

That would work great, if it were spot welds. But, it's a bead of weld about 2" long. I squeezed my camera into that area: By the way, see that small hole, just to the right of the yellow rectangle? There's a corresponding hole on the opposite (left/driver's) side of the bed. That would be ground Point G1001 as noted in the wiring schematics. I think I may run a dedicated ground wire so as not to use the bed as a ground (which is pretty well insulated from the frame by the wooden mounting blocks, under the cross pieces). Ok now I see it Yea a Dremil with a small cut disc but they like to fly apart as they are not vary strong but I cant think of anything else to use? What shape is the rear sill in? I also dont think you can get the wood up with out removing the side panels. If the rear sil is bad and can get the wood up I would then take a cut off wheel or sawz all to cut the sill off and ground the weld down flat. I dont know why they would do that unless the bolts / nuts from the side panels to the sill were bad? I cant remember now is there 2 or 4 bolts per side on the sill / side panel? I do remember it being a bear to get them started and tight as I did not have a lot of room to work in back there with the metal ribbed floor. Dave ----

The show is at the Petro Truck stop in Kenly NC It is exit 106 off I95 You got to see the show room inside the building. It has a full size truck & trailer and think 3 pickup trucks inside IIRC. Anything you would ever want for your truck and maybe car, they have it. The car show was pretty big, a mix of everything. Then you have the big rig show also. Some of them are just over the top I will be with my car club group, should have a bunch of us there. Dave ----

Your bed is cherry compared to what mine was like LOL Everyone of the extensions had to have metal replaced as did the bolt lips at the front & rear of both side panels. For that weld bead, it is hard to see but you cant use a thin 4" cut off wheel to cut it apart? Dave ----

He is a few hours from me as I am 30 min. east of Raleigh. As Mat said I dont know what parts you can get for that transmission to start with and the big one dont know anyone even around here that could rebuild it. I do have a pretty big car / big rig show in Kenly NC at the big truck stop and can ask around. Dave ----

Sorry to say I cant help on the brackets or pulleys for a v8 motor. But on the 300 6 the water pump is a 2 groove. Lucky the crank was a 3 groove. On the hoses I also had a little issue because I am using a newer type compressor but older drier / evap and the hoses are different both the fitting ends and how they run in the engine bay. I looked in to having hoses made but would have needed to come up with the fittings. I then looked into buying a hose kit, hose & fittings. That brought up the need to crimp the fittings onto the hose. The tool was not that much but to only use it for 1 time just did not seam like the way to go. I was able to find hoses that worked even if 1 did not run the right way. I did have to reused 1 hose. Forget what one but 1 end is on the condenser. Dave ----

I did not know there were 2 types of the small clips. I meant the truck uses 2 different size clips, small like shown (top?) and a longer one that IIRC is used at the bottom and may use 2 pins as it has been years since I did my glass & trim work. BTW if you are missing the clip pins before paint is done because of rust you can use a stud welder for pulling dents and they make pins that fit it to weld in place. Now back in the day you could get pins that screw into the lip area but dont know if you can any more? Maybe old body shops may have some tucked away some where? Dave ----

To back up a little when I took my truck to work today the rear lights do have the side markers. Again they are aftermarket but were a bolt on to the factory brackets. Cory they were some pretty trucks even that older Ford you had for a little bit. Dave ----

Wow you think I know a lot A little of a lot of things But when it comes to the AC I dont know if you want me to help as I cant seam to keep mine working more than a year I am almost to the point of farming out the AC so if it fails again I can take it back for them to fix again right this time. I will say use oil on the O-rings when installing them, check and recheck all fittings if tight. I have pulled vacuum many times for an hour and let sit the same and it held but still loss charge as I did not re-check the fittings I also had the charge ports leak so use caps with seals on them. Dave ----

Also note our trucks use 2 different types of trim clips. IIRC the bottom ones where some long things. Think I got my clips from LMC or was it Dennis Carpenter? Dave ----

1 of the 3 stands I have is a 4 wheel square base one that I would use for any motor as it is the most stable one I got. Next would be a 4 wheel but the base is a "T" with 2 wheels on the bottom of the "T" Would be the 2nd one to use. Last is a "T" also but only 1 wheel and the bottom of the "T" I dont remember what the weight limits are on them but the first is the highest. Dave ----