FuzzFace2

Good news it is fixed! Pulled the trailer 20 miles to the cruise with no issues. Talking to a member on that other forum kind of had the same thing happen. The star wheel was hitting the coil. I think the pads missing let the coil move all over causing the miss leading to the bad #4 plug and bucking. Being the new pickup was hitting the coil and it would not take any throttle with out bucking was a clue. We are good now and hope for another 28k miles Dave ----

I hope it is the right turn and not into a wall I am running out of things it could be, to the point of thinking about HEI dist.! Dave ----

From what I seen posted thatis the way to go. Sorry I cant help on the other things. Dave ----

I could not wait till the "real test" tomorrow. I used the truck last 2 days to / from work about 120 miles. I could feel the miss more when the motor was cold and seen it run lean so I wanted to swap the pickup coil in the dist. Well did not go good. It was a easy swap but the out come was really really bad. As soon as you gave it throttle the motor bucked even worst than when pulling the trailer. I have seen it posted others having problems when they replaced the coil so I think I am one of them now. I also pulled all the plugs, #4 looked rich? #1 & #6 looked lean the rest looked good. I tried to take a compression test the only gauge was a push in and the rubber was rock hard time to hit HF for new compression tester. I got 90 psi with it not sealing so as a guess 120 or so but I call the compression good. I swapped the 2 rich plugs for #1 & #6. lean plugs. When swapping pickup's I seen the old unit had a gap between the coil and reluctor, and the plate the coil was on did not have the plastic pads so it flopped all over. The new unit when installed the coil and reluctor were way to close (touching?) at the top and gap at bottom but the plate had the pads. I think the 2 parts hitting is why it ran like crap and bucked. My fix was to use the new plate with pads and the old coil. It came out with a nice gap and the plate did not flop around. When I got the dist. installed, I marked everything so I did not have to use the a timing light. It cranked over like the timing was way to advanced? I backed it off a bunch and it started but ran like crap but also way better than the bucking with the new coil as you could raise the RPM. Timing light showed it was at 40* BTDC!!!! but no kick back on start up now but had a miss at idle and lean on the AFR. I adjusted the timing to 15* BTDC and the idle miss went away and the AFR went to the rich side and I was ok with both. I also checked the dist. advance, RPM it cam up with RPM but it was pretty high. Think that is what I worked it out with vacuum advance to stop pining. Next was the vacuum advance and that was NG! No wonder why I was not getting any pinging with the new carb. Port did not have vacuum when the RPM went up, nice china carb NOT! I may rework the factory carb and put it back on stay tune on the carb. The road test with out trailer went really good. I did not feel any miss on the run but will see with the trailer to Dave ---- edit: I also checked for vacuum leaks, none found

If it is flat then they must be the same I just could not remember when we looked it up back when. As for the filler vent when I put mine back together I made sure the vent was long enough to stay put at both ends where they should fit into holders. I can fill both tanks as fast as the pump will pump. Only 1 time did I have a issue with the rear tank filling, only took line 2 gallons? I gave up and when I got in and flipped the switch the tank was full Other wise it only hurts when I fill because of what it takes to fill both tanks $$$ Dave ----

Last I knew you could get the tail gate with or with out FORD on it and the front panel. Think LMC had them but you can try DC also. As for the bed sides no one makes them and any you find most likely will need repair of the lip that bolts to the floor. It is not hard to repair that lip as I had to do it on mine. I made a patterns from what was left of the lips onto cardboard with holes and all. I then took the pattern to flat stock and made the needed lips. Holes were marked and drilled in the flat stock. To make them square for the bolts I took a jig saw to square the holes test fitting the bolts. Once the lips were made with the square holes I welded them to the bed sides where they went. I also had to build up weld in other areas and drill and make square holes I used a long bed style side ribbed floor cut shorter and the sides off and bolted the flare sides on I took some of the cut up style side bed to fix the bottom of the front panel that was rusted. Hope that helps Dave ----

They do look the same till they get put next to each other Brown is the flare side / silver style side. You can see the door blot spacing is different and so is the bucket. Size difference of doors The curve to follow body shapes I just dont remember if the 2 that fit fenders or the same or not? I think Gary looked it up once I just forgot what they all fit. BTW here is a style side bucket with door (silver) other wise they all look the same. Dave ----

Just because the parts store one dont say they will fit you OLD TRUCK I would pick up 1 or 2 just to try. It's not like they are $100 ea and it is nothing to drop 1 tie rod to try it. Ball joints is a different story for trying. As for not listed for your truck they look at it as your truck is too old to list heck it is 40 years old vary little is listed for 40 year old cars & trucks as it is just not worth it for the amount they would sell if it was listed. Dave ----

Thanks guys As fore the fenders being the same well yes and no. They are both fiberglass but you can not use either one on the other truck. The flare side bed side is flat so the bolt side of the fender is flat. The dually bolts to a style side bed, they cut the wheel opening bigger to clear the wheels. The style side bed side has body lines the fender follows. I dont remember now if the fuel doors of the dually are the same as the flare side or the style side? I want to say style side as I think the fenders are shaped like the style side. they have a curve to them. And yes the doors and the "buckets" behind are different between them. I do have pictures of then too. Dave ----

Good to hear you are doing good. I know my family history and like yours is not good. In my case my job is killing me and why next June I am retiring at 64. I am looking forward to hitting the gym and loosing weight. I also have a good woman behind me to make sure I stay the path. Dave ----

I also heard the same thing but about a week later it was posted they were hanging in there and will for as long as they could. I was vary happy with my Blue Top box and would go with them again if I needed a box. Dave ----

Oh I forgot the other option on the fuel door if only running a rear tank is to move it from the front to the rear. If done right both parts you cut out can be swapped and glassed back in to fill the holes. Or you can just see about having the filler neck hang out in the wheel well area like you see on some flat bed trucks. Maybe have it come thru the floor? I use my truck so that was not an option and to drop the tail gate for gas is a PITA You did not say if you will be running a spare under the rear tank but if so I dont know if you can with the Bronco one? The factory 19 gallon I do run the factory spare under the tank. I dont have a picture of it but the tank switch is factory to the right of the HVAC control and works the gauge like the factory did. Dave ----

There is no room on a Flare Side to install a larger tank unless it is a custom one. I tried to install a 19 gallon tank and no way it would fit. So you have 2 options at this point, well 3 if you look at custom front tank. You can install a factory 19 gallon rear tank or the Bronco tank as you said. I believe to install either rear tank (you will have to for the factory tank) you will need to change out the cross member just in front of where the rear tanks fits as the Flare Side one is not made for the straps to hold a rear tank. You should be able to use any 80 to mid 90's rear tank just note the 87> have a different filler neck & vent you would need to deal with but it is the better of the vent systems and you would already have the tank end taken care of so it would be just the filler end. You then have how to switch between the 2 tanks? I can tell you the wiring harnesses for single & dual tanks are different. You did not say what motor / fuel system you have as that can add a wrench to this. I have a 300 six and the easiest dual tank system there is. I used the full wiring harness from a parts truck, also a 300 six truck, that had dual tanks. That is what everything came from for my truck. Again not knowing the motor / fuel system I cant really get into how you should go but like me it might be best to find a parts truck of the same motor / fuel system to get the parts from? Now how to fill this rear tank? You looking to make it look factory or hide it and just so you can get gas in it? Me I wanted it to look factory and my brother sent me a Flare Side door and part of the fender. I then fiber glassed it to the Flare Side fender to make it look factory. A style side door and "bucket" behind the body is different and cant or I did not want to use it. The rubber hose and vents from a style side and Flare Side can be used to make it all work. I dont remember just what all I used as the factory Flare side was messed with before I got my truck. But between that mess, the 2 from the parts truck style side and what my brother gave me I was able to make it all work and look factory. What it looks like all done Oh also the above is also based on skill level, tools and the place to do the work. I did all the work myself no farming it out and why I know how it was done and the pictures to prove it. Any questions ask Dave ----

Being I am recovering from Covid I pulled the log book from the truck. I keep it to track MPG mostly, and I had a stack of papers to enter so I did that today. I had 4 enters total, 2 in the 17's they I thought was pretty good just wish I knew how I did it? 1 at mid 16's and the last at mid 15's. Most of the time i was in the 15 to 16 range and the last was when I had issues pulling the trailer even if not far so did not shock me much. I then went to the first entry 10 - 20 - 2019 "first road test after rebuild" at 37,439.3 Then to the last fill up 10 - 12 - 2023 and 65,511.5 That was 4 years and 28,072.2 miles ago. So was off a little on the miles of 10K to 15K in 4 years time Guess she did need a tune up and I should do oil and grease too. Dave ----

This is the 2nd go round for the wife and I and I think this time it hit us a little harder. Both of us went back to urgent care this morning because of our cough and keeping us up. We are now both on different drugs then before that knock us out so we can sleep / rest as that is how you get better. It is my head and chest I feel pressure on this time. First time my smell got more refined I guess you would call it. Between the knock out and 1 having Codeine in it I cant work as I drive a big rig. Work will be happy when I call out again tomorrow as I been out 2 weeks now. On the truck I still feel this little miss every now and then at different times. I even used it to go to urgent care as I want to put miles on it testing. Yes the plugs were a big help but at this time everything but the pickup coil has been changed / replaced so I am thinking the pickup has to be the issue now. Depending how I feel in a day or 2 I may just swap it out as the last thing to do. I pull the trailer on the 29th so if I dont swap the coil that would be the test. Dave ----

Good to know! I have called GV and discussed my concerns with the slip yoke on my NP208F (I thought "F" meant "fixed" but my yoke definitely slips out of the transfer case) and they assure me the unit they are sending will work with my truck. I guess I'll just have to wait a couple more months... New is good as no one has messed with it before you. I know my drive shaft needed to be 7-1/2" shorter but sis not want to take the gamble it would be wrong once in. Also part of my issue was I was changing transmissions going from a T18 to a NP435 even that they both measured the same I wanted to make sure. One thing i did do is had a new drive shaft made for the OD and new trans. This way if I ever want to remove the OD I can just slip the old drive shaft back in as the transmissions are the same face to tail. In my case because the transmission shifter comes thru a pan bolted to the floor and I had the parts truck one I cut it and moved the hole back and kept the stock one if I want to go back with out OD. Dave ----

Maybe a bad rubber hose to the rear axle not letting fluid thru? You started to find where you have fluid and were it stops keep going till you find where it stops. Dave ----

What is wrong with the ones on the truck? Unless a bearing chewed it up or got bent, I have not seen that yet, I would reuse what you got. or Junk yard find. I think you can go up into the early 90's for them. I would get beams on out so you have the brake setup and rotors with all needed parts. New ball joints, brake parts and bolt the beams into your truck and done. That was the plan on my 81 till I found out the 80 to 82 F100's use different beams on out and I could not use my parts truck front suspension They also use kingpins of different sizes, 83> have ball joints. Also when junk yard hunting keep an eye out for sway bars front & rear if you truck dose not have them. Dave ----

Thanks for asking The both of us still have a cough, me more than her, but we both have gotten outof the house to day. Me had to get my monthly eye injection and her a little food shopping. If you see the time this is posted I could not sleep because of the cough Put about 40 miles on the truck going to the eye doctor twice. Forgot my wallet and they would not take me with out money. Been going for 8 years now and always pay copay & balance but would not let me skip this time and I had no balance! Truck ran great. Going the first time did 70 to 75 MPH just so I would not get run over, limit is 70. Also some stop & go thrown in. I have a car show today about 20 miles each way but will be at a slower pace as the others dont drive on the high way, no over drive like I have Dave ----

X2 Pull the wire and check with a test light it should blink if the wiring back to the gauge is good. If you ground it, not long as you canhurt the gauge, the gauge should move if all is good like above. If both above tests check good the sender is bad and needs to be replaced. Dave ----

We have a link to the OP? As far as I know there were 2 different types used and you can get then from LMC or Dennis Carpenter IIRC I always get the wrong ones Dave ----

Welcome What parts are you looking for? You should be able to get factory front coils from the local parts store and I would also look local for rear leaf springs but you can get both on line with a Goggle search. Any of the wear parts like bushings, ball joints, tie rods, shocks, etc. you can get anywhere between local to Rock Auto and what Gary listed. I have used all of the above in the 4 year cab off frame rebuild of my 81 F100 flare side and I had king pins not ball joints up front. I dont see the need to replace the beams unless they are bent and you most likely would not know till it was on the road. So what are you looking for again? Dave ----

I know the HEI used a large gauge wire but do we know if it was really needed? The DSII puts out the same amount of spark and it dose not have a large gauge wire to it? Better coil on the DSII? But yes to be safe best to use a relay. Dave ----

A quick Goggle search came up with this https://www.google.com/search?q=tie+rod+boots+replacement&rlz=1C1KMZB_enUS571US571&oq=Tie+rod+boots&aqs=chrome.1.0i512l3j0i10i22i30j0i15i22i30l3j0i22i30l3.15964j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 I have not used any of the ones linked as all mine are good. Dave ----

I got a Blue Top on my 81 F100 and love it. They were cheaper than Red Head is why I went with Blue. They were also vary easy to deal with and would not think twice of useing Blue again. Dave ----