FuzzFace2

Matt I would like to know how can teeth be missing on a 300 timing gear set up? I think I have seen it posted 1 or 2 others also had it happen just dont know why? I had to replace the timing cover gasket, think was last year on New Years Eve, because of a oil leak. At that time I looked over the gears and they looked good so new gasket and no more oil leak. I have seen it posted to get the gear off the cam can be a bear, hope I never have to. Dave ----

If it is out the tail pipe and dose not go away after it warms up and gets worst it could be a head gasket as Matt said. Thing is if you have anti freeze in it the smoke out the tail pipe will have a sweet smell to it and the smoke kind of hangs around. Pulling plugs can tell you what hole the gasket is bad at as the plug would be clean. Dave ----

If you tested the cluster on the bench you would know if it was the gauge or the ribbon it was not that hard when out. Dave ----

With that low miles I cant see the IP needing to be opened. I know when the Ford ID and even the GM 6.2 when used in tow trucks and such the pumps would need a rebuild about 75K give or take how often the filter was changed. You also have to look at how hard they were driven. I got about 100K on my 6.2 but I did service when it had to be done. Dave ----

I know you had picked up a good gun but I dont use mine all that much that I felt I needed a really good one. I did want to upgrade from the 1 hand pump to electric so my son picked up a Bauer 20 volt from HF as I have a few other Bauer tools that the battery will fit the grease gun. He is a member and got it for $100, it goes for $130 and any of the others go for close to $200! The reviews looked good on it and the few bad ones I did not think were all that bad. Son also looked into a locking end but said it looked to big to get into some places like Ujoints so we will see if he can find something he likes. Dave ----

Yesterday after I did the weekly trash run I stopped by the parts store to return the heater core that I picked up as the one I installed did not fit well, I forced it in there. Well the core shape was right and why I got it but the hose outlets were turned to the HVAC box and no way to get hoses on. I have I hope the right one coming from Amazon at the end of the month. Then with help from my son went about changing the oil and greasing the truck. I bought a new 3.5 ton HF jack and while we got that out and bleed the air from the pump I added 1qt of ATF to the oil and let the truck idle. It took a little longer to get the jack set up, the valve assy. that you turn to raise & lower backed out of the pump and had a hard time getting it back in so the ATF had time to do its cleaning. Got the oil dropped and when greasing got to the last fitting and the grease gun fell apart We where able to get it back together for the last fitting but need to pick up a new gun. The top threads are gone so may pick up a HF electric one. Only things I grease is the pick up and the garden tractor so dont need anything fancy but I do have other HF electric tools that take the same battery so that is how I may go? I wanted to check the AC as it has not been blowing cold but it was dark and we where both ready for food. Dave ----

Because the cluster is out is why I say now is the time to test from where the plug goes in all the way thru the cluster, IVR the gauge back out to the plug. Then again because you know the fuel and oil gauges work if you put power to the IVR and check at the temp gauge in and then out all the way back to the plug you will know for sure that part of the cluster is good before you go putting back in. Being it sounds like the new sender and wire back to the plug is good is even more reason to check the cluster. Dave ----

The little bit of seat time I have on it it was fun. That's what I have seen about dispatch use posted on a fourm I am on for the bike. Shortly after I got it I cleaned it up as it had been sitting, I used degreaser and water. Well when done I took it for a little ride and could not get over 40 MPH and was WT??? Went on the forum and when waiting for a reply pulled the plugs. Bike came with 2 sets (4 plugs) used and why I pulled them. Because the plugs are set down in the heads one filled up with water and was not firing. Thats when they came back and said there are drain holes that plug up. Sure enough that one was plugged, cleaned both and should not have that happen again LOL Dave ----

First I did not check the link BB posted so ..... A lot depends on the year of the truck as they all dont have a clutch lock out so the starter will not crank till the clutch is pressed in. I say this because my late 80 (its a 81) and my early 81 F100's both manual transmissions, dont have the switch or the harness to hook the switch to. Heck I dont even know if you could mount the switch to the pedal bracket and then make your own harness? Well I guess you could be why? I was told from day 1 always always push the clutch in before touching the key to start a manual transmission car or truck. Dave ----

The only shaft drive I have riden is my 83 Honda Silver Wing Interstate G650I that I bought 2 summers ago. A full dress bike radio and all. A 1 year only as HD had the Gov. raise the import tax on anything over 700 cc because no one was buying HD bikes back them. It is a V twin, but side to side not front back like HD. To me it feels a little top heavy moving it around like in / out of the garage other wise it rides (air ride adjustable) and handles good out on the road. I have not pushed it as I dont see a need to. I have not put but maybe 200 miles on it because it is so hot in the summer here and no time right now but I hope come June when I hang up my CDL (retire) I can get out more. Dave ----

Cory now that you say that of the rear bumper and I went back to look I think you are right. So are the rear steps removable on the later flare sides as I cant see how that step would blend in to them like yours dose? Dave ----

Thanks guys for pointing this out to me. To tell the truth I got it from someone else that did it long before I did it. That person did not post a lot on how he went about it but it was enough to light the flame under me to make my rear dual tank happen. Wonder how he switches between the 2 tanks? I used all the parts and wiring from my dual tank parts truck so it looks all factory. I looked at the pictures of the truck and for 9k and the work it needs I think is a lot. Then again I am cheap but the rust I am seeing the cab needs work. We also dont know what the bed floor looks like? I would like to know where he got that rear step bumper? My brother told me the truck he got my tail gate and the fuel tank door I used for the rear tank said the truck also had a step bumper that did not hang over the ends. He thought it might of been off an Chevy S10? Dont know what brackets it would have used? Dave ----

I just checked on this link and NA with no date when or if it will come back Dave ---- Had the wife order the core off Amazon ADPI #9010205 and from the picture looked just like the one Jim linked to. Also reviews said it fit where others did not like we all have seen. Will not be here till think end of the month but I am OK with that. I have a core that will warm up the cab just dose not cook you out like the old one as I think air is bypassing the core. I have to return the wrong one but I cant get the truck out of the garage. Having a new roof put on the house and my garage and it is block in Dave ----

My other gauges are working correctly. I appreciate your help. I assume I can usepower from the battery or should I get a 12V bench tester? I would use a battery as we all have one of them around. I dont have a bench top power supply but if you do and it puts out 12 volts then that can be used for testing. If me I think I would put power to the IVR as we know that works as the other 2 gauges work. Then test that power (blinking) out of the IVR to the temp gauge input is good and then the output of the gauge. If you have power in & out of the gauge you will need to trace the board out of the gauge to the plug as it has to be failing some where? If that checks out then you will need to test the wire from the plug to the sender in the engine bay as it may be open. Dave ----

Yea when I checked a week or 2 ago they were all about $100 for switch & box. Think if you were to get just the box new from say LMC or DC think just the box was $100 and then you need to buy a switch. Used off Bay you get it all. The one in my truck now was a used unit off Ebay and has been working up till a week or so, only had high speed then it started working again so I have a spare now. Dave ----

I just checked on this link and NA with no date when or if it will come back Dave ----

No it dose work as I can move the lever from defrost to floor to vent and back and the air will change. I do have to move the lever to AC and back to vent to get air out the vents but defrost and floor and back is no issues. With the vacuum not strong enough to work the heater bypass valve is another reason why the HVAC control is leaking internal but they can be a little hard to find and then find a good one is a crap shoot. I also cant remember what year the control is as a member got it for me when I needed it. One day when it bothers me enough I will look into getting a replacement LOL Dave ---- So the heater core I got a long time ago that was for my truck, factory AC, did not fit so good but I forced it in. I do get heat but not great like with the old core. I think this is because the core not sealing right in the box and if I had to could live with it but I cant really live with it LOL So last week I picked up another core that by pictures on line looked like it was the one. Murray #94522 high output In the on line info it was not for factory AC but if you used the filter it came up as 1 of 2, the other the one that dose not fit. Murray #94582 AC and normal out put heat. It also said "high out put" but it is not marked on the HVAC box as such but the shape is right? I looked at it when I got it and the shape of the core looked good but .... there is always a but....... the hose nipples do not come straight out? The new core is just a little wider than the old but other wise looked good. I then took it to the truck and held it up and there is no way to get the hoses on as the nipples would be up to the HVAC box? I did look at my old non-AC HVAC box and the core nipples do hook like the new one I got. By the on line picture the normal output core no AC nipples do hook like this one. I did not pull that core out of the HVAC box to see the shape of it. So now I will return this right shape core / wrong nipples and look for a ADPI / PRO #9010205 core as I have seen it posted that should fit. ​​​​​​​Dave ----

A little late sorry I would say before you go putting it back in is to test it. You should be able to tell what the 12 volt into the IVR is and put 12 volt to it. You should also be able to tell what the ground is for the ribbon and ground that. You can now take your test light and check for power into the IVR = on all the time. Then check for power out = blinking. Now follow the out put to each gauge or just the temp gauge as that is the one not working and test for power in = blinking. Now test to output of the gauge = blinking (no blinking either bad connection or bad gauge. I would follow the ribbon all the way to the plug and test for power there for each gauge = blinking. Some where along the path for the temp gauge power is not going thru. Dave ----

You can also find them on Ebay as I just got the box & switch used as I thought mine had stop working and they might again so got it just in case LOL Dave ----

This is for 300 six truck but thinking the others would be the same? If the truck has FACTORY AC it SHOULD HAVE a shroud. Only the non-AC truck DID NOT have a shroud but a little cover from radiator over the top of the fan to keep finger out of harms way. Being you have a DEALER INSTALLED AC then all bets are off what it should have. I would have thought the dealer would have added a shroud? Do you know if you have the AC radiator? The AC trucks also had a larger radiator and a larger opening in the radiator support. BTW the diesel also had a different radiator support than the 2 gas ones from what I seen posted.making a total of 3 radiator supports. Now if you have AC and the right radiator and support but no shroud you may have issues finding what one works. LMC wanted the part number off the old shroud, I did not have it. I did some measuring and a lot of checking on line with who listed shrouds and found 1 I thought would work. It was cheap so I got 2 thinking I could cut them to make something work. Turns out I just needed to trim about a 1/4" off each side the went to the radiator so it would sit flush / air tight. Think I got them from NPD and was for a newer truck with a 300 six. I got a part number out in my garage if you need it just let me know. Dave ----

All the erasers I have are dried out and hard as a rock but yes eraser would work I just happen to have the 1200 grit paper. Dave ----

Yea not a beginnner's aluminum welding project but a welder that dose welding all the time. I have seen other transmission welded on so I cant see why his could not be welded but only the welder can make the final call. Dave ----

Are they DOT lights? Dave ----

Non-AC trucks did not have a shroud and why yours may not fit that radiator. I am with the others that you should be able to use that non-AC radiator and not have any issues with over heating and even more so now that it is cooler and AC not needed. When I replaced mine I think I got it from Rock Auto. Sorry to say the old one was full of pin holes and why it was replaced. Dave ----

As Jim said power (12v) comes in to the cluster going to the IVR then out to the 3 gauges (gas / temp / oil) and then out to each sender. You have tested back to the firewall for power with no luck so you have to move on to the cluster. As said look at the main plug as the copper strip on the printed board can come off and not make contact with the plug. It can also be dirty I used some vary fine sand paper like 1200 grit. I used it on all contacts for gauges, light sockets and the main plug. If you use jumper wires and a 12 volt power you can bench test the cluster with a test light. Power into the IVR and you should see the test light blink output of the IVR. Following it more to each gauge you should have blinking light in and out of each gauge. On the temp gauge if you have power in but none out of the gauge it would be bad in my book and need replacing. If the temp gauge blinks on the output side follow it to the plug and see if you have power there. At that point if the temp gauge has power (blinking) all the way back to the main plug you will need to check the temp wire from the plug back out to the sender to see where the fault is and repair it. Short of doing it for you that is what needs to be done. It could be once you have the cluster out and looking at the printed board you can see a bad spot and will need fining or me replacing it. Dave ----