FuzzFace2

That is just a cover to finish the body and has nothing to do with any leaks inside. You will need to pull it off to get down into the cowl area to clean it out and re-seal. BTW that cowl drains down behind the fenders where there is a "duck bill" that should let the water out. What happens is the duck bill also traps dirt & leaves and it fills up and rust the area where the door jamb and rockers meet up. To clean out that area and duck bill pull off the kick panels. If you dont have AC you can reach in the opening to clean it out. If you have AC remove the 4 screws holding the plate in place and I bet you will find it full of dirt. Once clean I would flush the cowl with water forcing water down both sides to flush it out. Once the cowl is clean and dry you you then reseal the cowl area. The factory used seam sealer but it can be a pain to get to the outer areas where the water drains down to the duck bills. Some have used that spray sealer they have on TV to make a boat out of screen, forget the name now They get a nozzle and straw from say WD40 and put in on the spray sealer this way you can pin point the sealer right where you need it. Let it sit up a day or 2 and do it again to make sure it is sealed. Once the 2nd coat sets up you can test with water in the cowl area and see if you have any leaks. At this time when testing with water you may want to start up on the windshield to see if it is leaking as a final test. Dave ----

You found out the hard way why you dont use the bolts to pull the motor & trans together Do you have the part that broke off? Is that also the part the pin fits into? You could pull the trans and take it to a welder and have them weld it back in place. If I was going to do that I would want to make sure it was lined up before welding. The best way would be if the block was bolted to the trans but I cant really see that happening so .... I think I would pull the flex plate and pull the motor plate and use that in place of the block and run nuts & bolts thru the plate and trans. If you can get the pins out of the motor or get a 2nd set and run them thru the plate and trans to make sure it is lined up before welding. Or if you have a 2nd motor plate you would not need to pull yours off. The only other thing would be to get another case and swap / rebuild it. Dave ----

No it dose work as I can move the lever from defrost to floor to vent and back and the air will change. I do have to move the lever to AC and back to vent to get air out the vents but defrost and floor and back is no issues. With the vacuum not strong enough to work the heater bypass valve is another reason why the HVAC control is leaking internal but they can be a little hard to find and then find a good one is a crap shoot. I also cant remember what year the control is as a member got it for me when I needed it. One day when it bothers me enough I will look into getting a replacement LOL Dave ----

So you have hot coolant circulating through the heater core (both hoses hot) but the heater core is air locked.. 🤔 I've cut these in half (photos back on FTE) and it's simply not possible for coolant to flow and it to bypass the heater core. Maybe your coffee can is leaking vacuum again and the doors aren't switching the way they should? Some of us (Gary & others) are running a Ranger style Max A/C bypass valve in the heater loop. I still live up here in CT and don't have any need for that sort of thing. Yep both hoses were hot but cool air blowing out any of the vent outlets. No the control for the outlets works by vacuum on factory AC systems. The temp control is by cable on all systems IIRC When I switched between floor / vents / defrost it worked as it should just not hot. It was not till I mashed the throttle to the floor a few times did it start to get warm but not hot like before the core swap. Yes I also run the vacuum bypass valve like the others but I think my control leaks internal as it will not pull enough vacuum to work the bypass valve and I had to mod it to work but it still will not close all the way to stop hot air blowing when temp is to cold. Because of that I am thinking of removing the bypass. But again if both hoses to the core were hot, could hardly hold them, but blowing cold air when control on hot what would you call that? I took the truck to the food store and it was pretty cool so had the heat on. It was nice not to smell coolant and it did warm the cab but I may see if I can get the right core and swap it out as it was not that hard. Did not even have to drain the system as the core was higher than the radiator. Dave ----

No Galaxy S20 FE 5G At the time I needed a phone for my job and I did not have time to run all over town to find one like my old one. Little did I know it did not have a mini jack till I got out to the garage I will check out the link and see if I can find something that will work. Thanks Dave ----

Factory AC I am sure I ordered it for factory AC but from what I have seen posted there are 2 different shapes. I should have taken pictures, the one I pulled out had round corners at the top but the replacement had square corners up top. The AC housing at the top also was round and why the core would not fit in just right. I dont know if you can get the rounded top core or not? I should do a search for posts about this to see what was said. It was the heater core that was air locked as both hoses were hot but only cool air coming out. Dave ----

Man I miss loud music in my garage when working I use to play it off my phone and it was plugged in to computer speakers with a mini jack. Had to get a new phone and it dose not have a mini jack on it My old phone will pick up wifi in the house but the garage is to far so cant use it. One day I will look into it there is a mini jack / BT adapter so I can use my new phone in the garage. Dave ----

Got the heater core changed out in the pick up. I have had it for a long time and I been smelling it more and more so about time I changed it. Other than 1 hose fighting me coming off it cam out pretty easy. Going back in was a different story. They make 2 different shape ones and guess what, yep I got the wrong one. I dont even know if you can get the other one or not so in it went LOL.' The old rubber gasket did not fit right because of the shape so I cut it to fit, that did not workout as planed I had some house rubber weather strips and that is I found out the different shapes as the new core would not fit even with out the strips. A little force and I was able to get the cover back on. Everything hooked back up, hoses hot but no hot air blowing out I am moving control levers and still nothing Mashed the throttle to the floor a few times and I got heat? Maybe it was air locked and the high RPM pushed coolant thru? We now have heat and no smell of coolant:nabble_anim_jump:

For get the vacuum bleeder go straight to the pressure bleeder. I never got a vacuum bleeder to work right. Dave ----

Sorry late to the party On the strips my truck did not have any. Heck the cross members and boards were no where near what the truck came with. Because the cross members were $1000 plus wood, strips and hardware it was more than I wanted to spend on a truck I got for $800! That 1 reason why I went with the style side ribber floor as I had it. As for the metal strips there are 2 different sizes / types because of the 2 different types of wood used. The 80 - 82 or 83 used boards and 1 type of metal strips. The 83 or 84 to 86 used plywood and used a different strip. I think what is sold is the later plywood strips. Also the 87 / 88? flare side was a totally different bed made of fiberglass and did not use a wood floor. Fender and side panels were all 1 part and I think was bonded to the floor. It also used a normal type tail gate. It will bolt on to any SWB frame but I dont think it looks right and real flare sides used chains for the tail gate Dave ----

The car shows in the area were canceled because of weather / rain. So truck was put into weekly trash run duty Then made my way out to the garage. I had to replace a vacuum advance can on a dist. for a friend that I have had for way to long, it is a spare cheap aftermarket unit. It is for a Ford 302 motor I then looked into the old carb off my 300 motor that I had pulled the top on a few weeks back when I swapped on the Ebay carb. When I rebuilt the carb years ago I remembered that there was something missing for the main jet / needle / accel pump assy. I was given 2 carbs and I pulled the tops on them to see if I could see what was missing and maybe swap them over. 1 carb inside looked like it been sitting in a lake for years and really nothing could be used but it also looked just like mine? The other carb a feed back one was a little better inside but the assy. looked different, plastic where mine is metal, and there was a wire spring that pushed on the needle maybe as a guide? I did not think it was wise to swap it over as my old carb ran good just rich. The old carb has some fine rust in the bowl so cleaned that out. I also adjusted the needle 1 turn leaner so if I ever use it again I hope it will be leaner. It is back on the shelf as a spare. Dave ----

Being I dont want the truck down for long I bought a used switch / harness / box off Ebay for $81 shipped. Some listed were going for crazy money This way I can swap out the box and hope have wipers and then can repair the removed box when I have time. I could sell them for what I bought them for but I will put it on the shelf as spare part Dave ----

I am on it this week…the issue is the back of the sunpro fitting is a ferulle fitting, and that cannot be screwed out, so I need a coupler to screw onto that small opening and go to the braised line—the tapered ¼ inch or whatever it is. HARD TO FIND for me at this point. I can post pic if that makes more sense for you all to see what I mean. Sorry for getting back late Have you checked with Summit or Jeggs for a non-plastic oil gauge install kit? I want to say Auto Meter made a kit that had copper line the same size as the plastic that I used in my drag car years ago. Dave ----

I may steal that from you never gave that a thought. Dave ----

First thank you guys Being a manual I am using the parking brake all the time. Just from washing the truck and running it around the year it was set and release 3 times. There was another 3 times to work and back home. Now that you posted about the box loosing connections inside I remember reading about it. I will also check the ground wire. It gives me things to check. Thanks again. Dave ----

Well drove the truck to / from work all this week, 400 miles no issues I have 2 shows this weekend and it needed a wash so wash it I did. It was raining a little and I had to drive across the yard to the clubs trailer to get some signs out so turned on wipers and all was good. Then moved truck around to my garage to use shop air to blow and dirt out, easier than using vacuum. Still some drips on the windshield go and turn on wipers and nothing I only have high speed, no low or intermittent When I have time I will look into it but wonder if the intermittent box could be bad? Maybe I should look for a spare just in case? Has anyone had this happen and if so what was it? Dave ----

I think the big thing on the grease is to make sure the seal lip has lube so when the motor is first started and before oil gets to it, remember it should have a oil slinger to keep oil from the seal, it dose not run dry and hurt it. I think I used wheel bearing grease on my 300 six seal as I had it handy. The assy. lube I had was for a the WC T5 transmission I rebuilt and was more to hold needle bearing in place till the shaft was installed so did not think it would "lube" too good. I dont see what the issue is with using pipe to drive in the seal? Put a cap on the hammer end to get a even hit to drive it in and you are good in my book. When under the shady tree you use shady tools Dave ---- Oh just remembered the seal removal. Drill 2 holes one on each side that you can screw in sheet metal screws. Screw in the screws and use vice grips to pull the seal out. You can use a 2nd pair of grips to put on the first set and hammer on it to pull the first set of grips and screw out with the seal. I think I used a large screw driver to pry it out. As long as you dont hurt the sealing surface you are good. I do use a little liquid sealer on the outside of the seal and housing. Because I had my cover off, bad gasket at top, I was able to remove and install the seal on the bench on my 300 six. Dave ----

I think the big thing on the grease is to make sure the seal lip has lube so when the motor is first started and before oil gets to it, remember it should have a oil slinger to keep oil from the seal, it dose not run dry and hurt it. I think I used wheel bearing grease on my 300 six seal as I had it handy. The assy. lube I had was for a the WC T5 transmission I rebuilt and was more to hold needle bearing in place till the shaft was installed so did not think it would "lube" too good. I dont see what the issue is with using pipe to drive in the seal? Put a cap on the hammer end to get a even hit to drive it in and you are good in my book. When under the shady tree you use shady tools Dave ----

Yes forums / internet for information and what you may want to go after to build. That "other Ford forum" has a lot of different years from day 1 of ford up to the last truck that rolled off the line. I look over all of them, well not so much the new stuff, to see what others have done and maybe steal a clue or 2 from them. Then again someone has to be the first to do something that has not been done or posted of. Take the ribbed bed floor of my flare side. I dont remember seeing that posted any where before. The rear dual tank I have seen but the posts did not really go into all that it took to make it happen. The "floating" bumpers, no bolts showing, front & rear is more of a 50's thing my dad said they did back in the day. Sorry to say he is not with us to see I took his clue on them. And my flare on the front bumper was to add the fog / driving lights in the bumpers like the new stuff has. You cant limit yourself to just the years your car / truck was built to make it your own. Dave ----

I stopped in for parts when fixing the bucking issue and when I walked in a mon & son were walking out. When I came out they were waiting and the son wanted to talk about the truck. He was 13 and into the older cars & trucks. I had my picture book I take to shows to show them all the work that was done. I told them he should get something he likes that dose not need a lot of work, could get over his head and give up. Build it the way he wants not the way others want him to build it. Also if they had classes at school to take them. Also if he knew anyone that has a shop or works on cars & truck so spend time with them and help when he could as he could learn from them. We talked for about 30 mins. I also told them of car shows around the area and how to look them up. Maybe we will have new blood keeping the old iron going Dave ----

X2 But I hope you DID NOT USE plastic line for the oil Over time the plastic dries out and will break spraying oil all over and hope it dose not catch fire. They sell a copper line just for this and that is the way to go with a few loops. Oh yse had a dune buggy that had plastic line. No fire but the mess was not pretty! Dave ----

The LMC replacements I have on my truck look just like them. Hardware (bolts) is different but other wise the same mirror and brackets from the looks. As for the writing you can get the LMC right mirror in normal glass as I did for pulling trailers. The other type is no good for pulling trailers Dave ----

:nabble_anim_claps:Well said I even like driving the pick up more than my 02 Durango as I bought it new and did no work to it unlike the pick up, full cab off rebuild. Dave ----

Time to check the chain was before you pulled the balancer so you could set it to TDC and then turn the balencer each direction a little so the dist. just started to move and you could then see just how much play was in the chain by deg. How many miles on the chain now? Also sealer on the bolt & washer I think is to stop oil from working its way out. Dave ----

This is what I pulled about 20 miles each way. Dave ----