FuzzFace2

I think you listed the cons on filling, running the supply, takes up room in the bed, no gauge, etc. A cell is for race cars not for the street. Pro don't have much. As for the factory set up other than you poking a hole in it the supply of metal & rubber has been used for years and other than the rubber needing replacing as dose other supply lines. I had braded break down and leak on my race car after sitting a few years. This braded line ran from the cell, mounted in the trunk, to my filter mounted under the truck floor and hard line from filter to the engine bay. I only used a little flex line from regulator on fender well to carb. BTW they do make cells with fuel gauges and you can mount them out back where the factory tank was mounted. Look at hard wall like used in stock car racing. They are mounted out back and low. Just my .02 Dave ----

Thanks with all the dash work / wiring I have done I don't think I have the light harness. Again for me not a big deal as I have a working dome light and I am happy with just that. Dave ----

Just collecting parts when they come up for the next project Tell the truth I like the metal work before the body (filler) work and after a put quarters on the car it is the body work on them, they rest of the body work has been done. Dave ----

Agreed! I'm wondering if the LMC unit is the same as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ETOVZM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.aXLEb69E2WT1 Rockauto only has the 6 pin/6 port options. Is the fuel line size 8mm? I had to replace my switch valve, cant remember if I got it off Ebay or somewhere else now but what I found when looking for one was the way the wire connects. The factory valve think had a spade and the wire the female spade that plugged on and as you can see the replacement has a threaded stud so have to change the wire end. The other the factory valve has nuts welded to the bracket so the bolts go thru the frame and screw into the nuts. You can just use nuts, lock washers & bolts. I could not find any of the right size in my stash so I cut the nuts with part of the bracket off the factory valve so I could use the factory bolts and bolted the new valve to the frame. Works great Dave ----

But it looks like the wiring plugs into the light assy. So would the wiring be part of the main trucks harness like the clock wiring so all you have to do is get the assy. be it glove box light / switch or the clock and just plug it in? At this time I don't feel the need for a glove box light but just wanted to know how it gets its power. Thanks Dave ----

Went from this To this I had to come up with the filter assy. as the truck did not come with one. I also am running EFI exh. manifolds so I have no good way to hook up the pre-air heat but the vacuum part of it is hooked up. I also run hot water under the intake to heat it like the exh. did before the EFI manifolds. Dave ----

When you say "tape" are you talking the Butyl tape like the factory used? If so look no farther as that is how I installed mine, old school baby! And for the ones that say the glass will pop out in a crash is BS! This glass did not pop out and it still had the tape I had to cut it out so I could get rid of it before 1 of our dogs got hurt on it when I put the cab outside my garage. You get the young guns that say the law said you cant use the tape. That may be true on the newer cars & trucks where the glass is glued in but not on the older stuff. It is they just don't know how to install glass that uses the butyl tape. That's my story and I am sticking to it. Dave ---- btw my glass has not popped out yet

Yep cut the rust out and replace with good metal. It would be nice if you could find a good roof and weld it on. I have a buddy that his parts truck roof is the same way. I told him I want the truck when he is done with it for the frame & suspension. The cab need the normal patches and I can / have done that but coming up with a roof could be hard. I have even given thought to cutting apart my parts truck roof so I can get it back into shape, it rolled over, and see if I could use it? Any way after you have good metal to work with you can then use the frame coater. I have used it on a 1 year only hood that had been in storage for 20 years and was like new unlike ones you find. We wanted the hood to stay around a long time. Dave ----

Nice job on the bumper. Like you, above or below just did not cut it for lights Your buddy did the same thing, all bet better, that I did with my lights in the bumper. It would be nice to have my bumpers chromed but for good chrome it is a lot of $$. I looked into getting them wrapped in chrome but 2 of the 3 places would not touch them. The 3rd would not do them in chrome but is SS because the chrome would show scratches from when they were putting it on. They also said it would be about $250+ to do both bumpers. They did give me a guy to call that does a lot of color change of cars with wrap but I would need to call and make an apt. and with the hours I work that was not going to happen. As for powder coat chrome if it is anything like a air filter lid I had done it does not look like chrome. It looks more like un-polished nickel and that was ok with me as the lid from the factory was un-polished nickel. Sorry no picture of the lid but can get one if you want. If you do a Google search for spray chrome there are a few different ways this is done. It looks like chrome but not all the chemicals. Jay Leno does a Youtube video of 1 type. You may want to look into then as an option? The last if you are going to paint with chrome paint they say the part has to be baby butt smooth. Lay down black paint. This has to flow out like water NO ORANGE PEEL! Could you sand & buff the black to get it smooth? I guess but that is a lot of work but has to be smooth. You then spray the chrome paint over the black. From what they say it is like how they do mirrors. Believe me I have looked into this a few different times and none of it is cheap other than you spray painting it yourself. That is why I went with Dupli Color bright silver, pre-mixed ready to spray and put a few coats of Dupli Color clear, pre-mixed ready to spray also over the top to make it shine a little more, not that is helped or hurt but came out good for what I could afford till I hit the lottery. Dave ----

Sorry for the late reply, I didn't know you comment. I bought all of the parts from Rockauto. I have them in a box and ready to install, I've just been sidetracked with work, my bumper project and home schooling. I expect to get those A/C parts on next week if all goes according to plan. Its ok I am not in a rush yet as it has not gotten really hot yet. I also need the 2 manifolds that bolt to the compressor that the hoses screw to and a while back they were $100+ each on ebay. I also cant make heads or tails on the hoses on line sites. And that leads to my truck is a 81 and used a different compressor than the 83 or 84 that should fit my AC brackets. What hoses do I go with? Thinking the 83/83 as they have to screw to the manifolds but will the other ends fit what they need to is the question? I really need to hit a few junk yards and see what they have and get what I need. I may not use that compressor but would have it for a core, the hoses to see if the will work and need a little of the wiring because the 83/83 compressor uses a different style plug than my 81. Thanks Dave ----

I have to say my phone is a 100 years old .......... ok 50 years old ........... ok it's old But like my old truck it works and does what I needed it to do for me. I know years ago I down loaded the QR reader app to play with it but being I did not use it after that I removed it from my phone. There may be others like me that would like to see what the site is about or in need of help and why I said the www. name should be on the sticker, and it is thank you. Dave ----

The 3G has to be done first then the fans. Look at what electric fans pull for amps before you go jumping to them and stay with the stock ALT. Now I am not a big fan of electric fans to replace the engine driven fan. You just moved the power needed to work a fan to the ALT and most of the "up gade fans" they never work right and people wonder why the motor now over heats! Dave ----

Then you need the QR app reader on your phone no? How many people have the QR reader on their phone? I did not use QR all that much so I removed it. I know that is all new school stuff but I drive an old school truck Could have both the QR takes up a little room so could be placed anywhere. If the trucks plate is large enough could that be the QR? Dave ----

Ok on the butt welds. I used some heavy items on the floor pans to hold them down and used something to push the pan to the floor and plug weld and hammer where needed and working inch by inch till welded in place. I also used weld thru primer, the white spray paint looking stuff around the edges. Yea there are some places you just cant get out of the way of the smoke so you try and hold your breath. On the rear cab cross brace I made it from metal I have on hand. Do they make that part? If so I did not know or even look for it. I just knew I needed to tie the brace into the rocker / cab corner for it to be some what strong. As you could tell I did not try to get it to look factory as who is going to see it and it worked like the factory wanted it to. I did weld a bracket inside & outside to tie into the rocker. Dave ----

The plate is nice but some states have to run a front plant so where do you mount it. Besides I would then need to remove my front plate I just installed To over come that a window sticker I think would be better as everyone has a large rear window they could stick it on. I got my plate from https://www.buildasign.com/ They also do stickers and decals. I did not look over the site other than for the plate. I think the sticker / plate should have the web address on it. Maybe across the top to replace the Gary's Garagemahal? Dave ----

But welds? Is this a show truck where you should not see the weld seams? I cheated and over lipped by about an inch. I punched holes around the edges and spot welded it. Seam seal top & bottom and coat with bed liner. Once covered with a rubber mat or carpet who will see it? Dave ----

I know you're probably only asking about Styleside gates, but my 1984 Flareside had decals for the gate letters, which I replaced with aftermarket 3M decals when I had the truck painted last year. The originals did seem like they were a little bit thicker, but I would argue that they probably didn't need to be, not by current standards at least. A lot of things have improved in 40 years, and Vinyl and adhesives would be included in that. My originals were still intact when I bought the truck, but when you looked at them up close, they had a lot of little cracks in them. Also for a flare side: My truck did not come with a gate. My brother found one in CA. and sent it to me. I don't know what year it was from but the letters were painted on. Being Cory's is a 84 it must of been before that I guess? I did look into repainting them back on but after painting the gate and then need to paint letters the way the factory did (roller) I did not have the balls if it did not go right and messed up the painted gate. So I folded and went with decal letters but went white reflective. Dave ----

Driving for a living there is not much driving I want to do for "pleasure" at this time. I get that mostly driving the truck back n forth to work. More so the "forth" as I can roll the windows down, gets warm during the day and no AC yet, and being the sun is up get to see everything. Also with a lot of people home the roads are a pleasure to drive on now. As for the insurance I have heard on the radio yesterday when cutting the grass that State Farm, I think it is, is giving back money because of people not driving and because of that less crashes. I got to say there is less traffic but I still see a lot of crashes so don't know how that will play out. So far for the wife & I we are driving just a little less than before. I am still working so driving to / from work and the wife does volunteers for Plant A Row growing food for food banks etc. She has only done 2 or 3 adaptions, paper work, for the pet foster group we belong to, a pet helps at times like this. But the Saturday adaption events have been canceled. Dave ----

I do like that wrench sticker. may looing into something for the rear window also. As for the "Slow Poke Rodriguez" that would fit my truck to a "T". 300 six and a T18 / NP435 you cant shift fast it is slow Dave ----

Yes nice job. Right now my truck only has the factory firewall pad, no head liner but I did use spray foam but the other day when tapping on the inside the foam did not reach most of the areas, and I don't have anything on the floor other than 2 coats of roll on bed liner. I do have 2 strips in each door of the Peel & Stick. I added it to kill a little noise but to make the doors sound more solid when closing and because of the speakers in the doors for a little better sound. I get more noise from stones hitting the un-covered floor and wind noise on the right door from the upper front corner. That could be fixed with the wind gasket / seals that I have not installed yet. But all in all I don't think it is that noisy in side. I also don't think I get all that much heat coming from any of them areas for the need to put mat down. At some point I want to install carpet and that should take care of the noise & any heat coming from that area. Just my .02 Dave ----

I bought myself a little birthday gift and mounted it on the truck this morning. I am waiting on my big birthday gift but with this virus thing I don't know when it will get here Dave ----

I also went with Tabco for my replacement panels and was really happy with them and would not think twice of using them again. When I placed my order Tabco called me and said some of the panels overlapped by a lot and told me what I should get that covers most of what goes bad and would send a flat sheet to use as a filler if needed. They did not need to do that could have sold me the parts and made the money but they took the time to call and help save me money. That goes a long way in my book. Dave ----

I think you meant "don't". I'm pretty sure that if I do tell she'll think I'm crazy - no way you'd go back into that briar patch after having just gotten out. So, will you put a Flareside bed on? Styleside? :nabble_smiley_blush:YES DONT TELL Have to get the truck and see what all might come with it then see how I want to go. It would be just a roller, no motor or transmission. I would like to lower it with maybe DJM beams and a flip kit out back then I start thinking crazy and may do a Crown Vic front or the whole frame, motor, trans setup? It would be my play toy with v8 power and auto. As for a bed don't know? If I did a CV frame swap you cant use the bed as the frame kicks up for the rear axle travel. Also being you cant find flare sides I would most likely go style side. I could go with a long bed and cut it to make a short bed to fit the CV frame if that is the way I went. I really need to get the Javelin in paint before I do any work on this truck project if it was ever to happen. I just know there are some "good parts" that will be left over from my buddies project that I cant let go to the scrap yard. Dave ----

Do tell me wife but I am looking at another truck or what is left of it after a buddy gets done with his. Its a short bed truck, no bed and the cab has normal rust and roof rust but it has a good frame / suspension I can work with it. Will have to see what happens but I also need to get on my Javelin to keep the wife happy. Dave ----

Looks good but after dealing with the tail gate letters I am not dealing with any more decals! Dave ----