FuzzFace2

Any way to switch the cable back to the TC and check with a GPS if the speed is off? Then back in the GVOD and check it. Just wondering is all. I am waiting on a Advance Adaptor's Range Splitter, should have been here. It is listed at 27% OD IIRC. Running the numbers thru the calculator on here it should put me at 1800 RPM at 70 MPH. The thing I don't like about the GVOD is you cant split all the gears because the need to be at a speed before the unit will shift. So I would not be able to split granny gear to pull a load that did not need non-OD granny gear. My speedo would still be in the transmission so that should not change how it work for me. Because I also have many miles that I have taken mileage I should be able to get a good reading with the OD unit installed. I cant see going from a T18 to the NP435 would change the MPG as it is still 1:1 4th gear. Dave ----

Must be a new Holley thing as I have never seen that on a Holley carb before only the one on the side. Dave ----

Did the speedo go off after the GV OD swap or was that way before the swap? If before and did not correct it for your 7MPG than you are still apples to apples for measuring MPG. Would be nice, or maybe not? to know what it gets. Well I am getting mid 14's+, I had 1 fill up that got 15 MPG wish I knew what I did for that. When on the high way I try to keep it about 65 MPH as the first fill up was in the 13's MPG range when doing 70 MPH the speed limit here. Also have to note when the trucks were built the max speed limit was 55. In my truck that is about 1800 RPM, doing 65 MPH I am about 2250 RPM and 70 is even higher. My thinking if I can get the RPM down to 1800 or so at 65 / 70 MPH I will be happy. I also have the 300 six and it does not spin vary high and pulls pretty good at the lower RPM's. I do know my speedo & mileage are so close to dead on after the speedo gear fix and tested with my truckers GPS for speed and mile markers. Dave ----

Nice little trick have to remember that the next time I have a casting oozing oil Be nice of I could pour some in the oil let a little leak out hit it with the primer and heat and wipe clean and no more leaks. As they say no such thing as a mechanic in a can LOL Dave ----

Frogger, what is "not in good shape" about them? They all get dull and kind of turn whitish. If they have extra holes, some are factory, or cracked why not try your hand at plastic welding? You can pick up a cheap plastic welder at HF with different welding rods for different types of plastic. As for the whiting I don't really have an answer. Think some have used a little laquer thinner on a rag and wipped them down. Think others have tried heat guns to "melt" the top and bring the black back. If you try either do it someplace it will not show up till you know it will work. I think other have painted them but the thing is you have to prep the liners really really really good and use paint for plastic and hope it sticks. On my truck I was not that worried about them to spend any time on them before I bolted them back in. I am happy I did not as they got over spray on them when I painted the truck and I had the under side tapped off so that would not happen. Dave ---

Scott, recheck that base vacuum you say is timed / ported vacuum as I have never seen any base ports be timed / ported on the one up by the float sight hole. The way Cory has his is how I have mine even if it is a 300 six as that system works the same way on any size motor. FYI I don't have the heat hose to the EXH. manifold because I am running EFI manifolds and no way to really get heat from them. In my case it does not get that cold here and if it is pulling a little warm air then good other wise I don't worry about it. Dave ----

Well, that's a very good question. And the answer is, I don't know. But all Bullnose speed control C305A harnii can be made to work. The issue is the position of the power feed to the speed control amp. It changed somewhere between 1982 and 1985 as I'm using an '82 speed control harness in Big Blue and found the change. It is discussed in detail in this thread and following. But that can easily be fixed by removing the red retainer from C305A and swapping pins. Ok got it, so need to check the pin outs between the truck & the CC plugs to make sure they match up. Thanks Dave ----

Set up for 2 batteries also. What is with the door panels? My 81 has slider locks but that one has the push/pull buttons? It is a nice looking truck, wonder what all they would do to the lettering & lights? Its the roof lights and any holes left behind I would worry about. Dave ----

I forgot you did the de-smog and other work at the same time as the GV OD. I wonder what just the GV OD added to the MPG? Guess it would be easy to find out, just don't use OD LOL. I do have a plan for an OD unit but this virus kind of messed up the timing on getting one so I sit and wait. I also want to do the T18 to NP435 transmission swap at the same time. No need moving them heavy transmissions more than I have to. On the plastic I was tying to cut it to size and fit it up then was going to "stick it" think was going to use spray contact cement. I like the way you did it with the ribbon tape and cut the plastic to ruff size, stick it in place and trim the rest of the way. Because I have the slider locks and no sliders it left a BIG hole in the panels. I used alum. duct tape in the inside to seal the holes but I don't think I would get much air coming in with the new window sweeps on the out side of the glass. Dave ----

Thanks for the tip When I found the side cover leaking and tighten up the bolts I cleaned with brake kleen and it washed the paint off the motor, not a happy camper about that. Think I have seen the same effect with the powder if driving on fine dusty roads. I do see the pollen has kind of done the same thing were the oil is leaching out. It's just a shame it was so nice and clean and now this Dave ----

Thanks Gary. It looks like it kind of works like the factory AC add on harness does. So the CC amp has a lot of wires to it and you just plug this box in between the turn signal switch plug and run the rest of the wires, if any, to where they need to go. Great something else I need to look out for when I hit the junk yard for the needed AC parts. On that note what years work with an 81 truck? Dave ----

See my replies by the pictures. Oh I should also asy if you don't have the snorkel hooked up to hot air off the exh. manifold and / or cool fresh air thru the radiator support I don't see the need to hook up this temp switch. Dave ----

Fond Of Rear Distinction Have not done anything to the truck other than tighten up a heater hose to the heater bypass valve as I found coolant on the garage floor. I also gave another quick look on the oil leaks. Think the timing cover is leaking because I don't see the front of the oil pan wet like if it was the front seal, but the front cross member has a puddle. I am going to have to degrease the motor again and watch it closer to see just where the oil leaks are coming from. I have also been keeping track of my fill ups. Getting between mid to high 14's and even hit 15 once! I wish I knew what I did to get that 15? Did not see much if any change running regular / high test and mid grade. This last fill went back to reg. and I have a hint of ping again, really need to put a light to it. Oh got 3866 miles on the truck since Nov. Dave ----

I hope when I go with an over drive unit I get 5 more MPG I would be You did a nice job on the door plastic. Factories have used the same strips both with plastic & vapor paper. I started to do plastic on my doors but after cutting 2 sheets for 1 door and still not right I gave up. I also did not have the strips but should get some to have on hand. I might give it a try when I get the new door panels. Yea also sorry to hear about the starter but it sounds like they are going to make good. Dave ----

Chad, thanks for the information. I know there are other "under hood parts" that make up the CC system. I was more asking about the column and wiring. Is there a CC harness that would be part of this "under hood parts" as there is a tie in to the brake switch and a clutch switch. I have a non-CC column that I can check if the signal switch is set up with the 2 contacts. Thanks again Dave ----

I would think the thinking is if you seal the rust from air & water, 2 things needed for rust to grow, it would stop it. Dave ----

As said nicely done. Got a question or 3. I take it you started with a CC truck that worked? That the replacement column has to be for CC also? I think I have seen a post or 2 on CC but did not pay that much to them as my truck dose not have CC and the after market looked to rich for my blood at this time. But you never know what you may come up with in your travels and want to know what to look out for Dave ----

Thanks the silver carbon fiber when looked at fast looks like a base model dash till you look closer. Then you look closer at the gauges, custom gauges with the make & model of the car on the face, placed in the factory locations. What it looked like when I got the car from my brother. I am doing flush mounted front & rear glass on the car, started 5 years ago before I moved. I like making little changes that are hard to pick up unless you know the car or like my truck & the rear gas tank with factory mounted dash switch on a flare side that the factory never offered and the custom front bumper with lights in it. Dave ----

The dash frame had a crack by the glove box I also filled in with the Plastex. I also used it on my trucks door panels. Someone drilled hold to use screws to hold it to the door and had a crack in a few places. I did a really quick fix so I could throw some SEM color on them to look some what good till I can get new panels. Dave ----

It is a thing but IIRC come in 6" long incroments, so 6", 1', 18", etc up to think 3'. So you may find 1 is to short and the other to long so you would buy the longer one, bend to fit and cut & re-flare 1 end. Dave ----

That is where I got mine from don't remember what I paid but being I am a cheap SOB it could not have been much over $100. Mine also came with the brackets for mounting it in the truck, I did not have any of them, and pig tails so I could splice them to my trucks harness as they were also cut to remove the radio before I got the truck. Dave ----

Garage is looking good. Cement around here is still flowing along with building. Back a few weeks ago I took 3 loads, 25 to 26 tons each, to a roofer building a school. My cement is the powdered like the bags you get at Home Depot just a lot of it. LOL I blow it into a pig, holding trailer, they then mix chemicals & water to make a slurry and pump it up to the roof of the building. I know other drivers are taking loads to plants where they add stone, sand & water into the trucks everyone sees. This morning, 12am, on my way to work I seen they were pouring cement on the high way project here also. So I guess it depends how much they lock you down where you are at. I have been on LP for weeks now, gas is cheap so they are stocking up. Dave ----

Seam sealer will not work on what you have going on there. You need to cut out the rusted parts and either weld or glue (panel bond) new metal in place to fill the gaps. Once the new metal is in place you then use the seam sealer to seal the seams so water cannot get between the 2 parts of metal and do this all over again. With the dash & wiring out you should have room to work from inside the cab to fix this. You can even do the seam sealer on the inside easy but its the out side that is going to be the hard part as you can only fit your hand / arm in so far thru the cowl openings. Some guys have that have only little pin holes after a good cleaning have use that spray sealer they show on TV. You know where they cut the bottom of the boat out and put in a door and spray it to seal it. I think they make a mat type sealer too so maybe after the clean up that may work but you really need to fill the gaps before you go sealing that area. Dave ----

That is an easy fix with https://www.plastex.net/ I have used this to repair the dash bezel of my 70 AMC Javelin. There is lip across the top with holes in it that screws go thru like the 2 taps on your part. This lip was mostly missing. I had to make a forum like they use to pour cement footings and made a new lip. I then drilled new holes for the screws and it fit like it was a new part. And when they don't make an over lay for your car you make one. Put your mind to it and you can do anything http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif Dave ----

Can you post up a picture of yours where it is broken? I may, I am sure I have a fix for it. Dave ----