85lebaront2

Yes, the other change was a larger shaft and bolt circle, that is why I said get the pulley, fan clutch is the same, most come with a sleeve for the smaller shaft.

Just unplug it or if you want cut the piece it attaches to out. On the heater duct, yes, all the inside to the firewall, you can keep the core for yours. On the right end, no problem Bronco Graveyard has a nice metal repair bracket that solves the issue.

No, there is no reverse rotation 385 series pump unless it might have been marine, just like there is no 335 series reverse rotation pump.

Yes, if if is in decent shape, mine is starting to come apart where the "cover" is stitched. Also, in stripping it down, if it isn't to big an issue, I would like to get the heater inside case, don't need the core, just the box. It is for another project, EATC for the trucks that will do the air distribution splits like the later trucks.

On the harnesses and connectors, read the post above where you pasted the email I sent you. The stuff on the intake is the same, interface to body harness is different.

The differences in the pumps are: starting in mid 1990 the cooler was added, the lower hose changed to a two piece unit, and the pump inlet changed from 2.0" OD to 1.75" OD. There is a NAPA "bushing" PN 902 that will take the inlet hose up to 2.0". Backing plate is the same C8SZ PN from the 1968 429. I would buy a new water pump like I did for the new engine, AutoZone's Duralast line is lifetime warranty and they are very good about it.

Jim, I assume Gary is getting the steering column for the shifter, what shape is the steering wheel in, it should be the same style as mine with no air bag. When you start serious destruction, if you are unbolting the core support, could you stick the hardware in Gary's stuff so he can powder coat them for me. Thanks!

Not so much on the heads, as needing to drill the lower inboard hole on the A/C PS bracket to allow a 1/2-13 bolt to fit through into the head, everything else matches on that side, other side, the very lowest hole at the bottom of the AIR pump, alternator bracket interferes with the carbureted timing pointer.

Yes, all EFI 460s are serpentine belt models, Get the water pump pulley from Jim, the later pump has a larger hub and shaft to eliminate a problem with the early serpentine 460s, breaking the water pump shaft. Jim's harness is the better design and I should have the piece he chopped off. The 1992-96/7 use the big PDC on the left inner fender, 1987-91 were still using fusible links. Jim, if I had known the interior color I would have spoken for the carpet, 1996 crew cab was in two sections, front and rear, overlapping under the front seat. The fuel pumps on the 1990 will not work with your gauges as the senders are on the pump modules (see earlier post on pumps/gauges).

I do not have a PS pressure switch, or any air pump junk, you can turn off unused hardware in BE when flashing the EEC box. You need 2 upstream O2 sensors, one for each bank so the system only trims the side needing adjustment, downstream is for catalyst monitor, MAF is to measure the air flow for the EFI, TPS tells how far the throttle is open for the EFI and trans. CKP and CMP sensors are in the distributor. CKP triggers on the leading edge of the 8 vanes, CMP triggers on vane width, #1 is narrower than the other 7. VSS is needed for (1) EFI system, (2) transmission and (3) speed control. If you get the intake manifold from Jim's truck, you will have IAC, TPS, ECT, ACT, EVP all on the plenum, if you get the coil bracket you will also have EGR and AIR solenoid valves which you won't be using and the TFI-IV coil, get the ICM and heat sink from the left inner fender and the distributor for the CMP and CKP sensors, the engine harness will probably stay on the intake as other than the oil pressure, coil and solenoids pretty well everything is on top of the intake. MAF, 1995 Lincoln Continental or MK 8 have the 90mm MAF needed for the 460 system and Core tuning has the curves for it.

If the dash is good, I might take you up on the "I'll send you the whole dash" offer. If you go to pull it I will tell you the secret, Ford says to R&R it with the column casting and column attached. I usually pull the column and then the parking brake pedal and remove the I think 4 M6X1.0 8mm head bolts that are vertical on the casting (one over the steering column) then the 4 M10X1.5 bolts that hold the casting to the cab side. There is one hefty brace near the center of the hump, one skinny one on the right side. One M6X1.0 bolt under the right side door post trim. You need to remove the A pillar trim which wraps over the door and then the 4 7mm head screws across the base of the windshield, whole dash will roll back so you can get the temp cables (please save) and vacuum harness loose. Firewall plugs push in from outside. All the other wiring plugs in to the 14401 dash harness.

Jim, all the AC stuff is factory R134, condensor alone is very useful. If you aren't going to use it I would be interested in the A/C lines and compressor.

Yes, that is a bank fired speed density system.

No, I have plenty of them, thanks anyway. Is the dash light blue or opal gray?

Jim, has it got full gauges? If so I can use the instrument cluster.

Close enough they make a EFI to 4 barrel adapter, I don't know, but it might work. Get a plenum gasket for a 460 and look at it, you should be able to make an adapter plate on your Bridgeport, won't need to be more than 1/4" thick, maybe 3/8" max.

PDC = Power Distribution Center. Yes, use a distributor, I even have an extra that I will install a new shaft seal in for you. Fuel tank(s) and pumps, Gary, two options, first item, fuel gauges changed in 1989 when the IVCR was done away with. That said, it is either adapt early senders to the later pump modules or use the 1985.5-1989 system with pre-89 pumps and senders along with the frame mounted filter/separator/reservoir and a frame mounted high pressure pump. Latter is more complicated mechanically, but would allow you to keep your nicely refurbished gauges. 460 Plenum to 400 manifold, Dan Lee used one but changed due to firewall interference (his is in a 1956 F100) Tim may remember what he did on that one. 460 injectors push down into the manifold bores, the rails push down over them and the rails are bolted to the intake.

When I was redoing the system on mine, I ended up locating Dorman replacements through RockAuto.com

I would sell one of the GIN3 or TIN3 boxes, they are 351 w/E4OD. One has already been reflashed, that one I want to keep as it is the spare. The one with the seal was purchased when Adam and I both thought there was something wrong with the one he sold me on the initial setup. You can contact Core Tuning, in fact it would be a good idea so you can purchase the needed hardware and software to be able to tweak things yourself.

Gary, the first generation of the E4OD had the OD lockout switch on the dash, with a light that was on with the OD off and flashing for problems. If you get the 90 parts truck it will have that switch/light and a shift indicator on the column (which will fit in a Bullnose if you swap the mount plates) that reads P R N OD 2 1 the OD is an O surrounding a D and will also have the linkage rather than cable shifter system. Core Tuning is the group I am working with for mine. The startup was $750 which included the software, hardware and a nice couple of hours with my bench flash setup and Adam walking me through the software. I checked the other day, I have 4 spare EEC-V boxes including and actual FEZ3 (CA 460, MAF/SEFI/E4OD).

Biggest thing will be the get the air pump "bumps" out of the exhaust ports. You will find there are six active and two dummys (where the crossover passage runs). They seriously obstruct the exhaust flow and if you have to have them for emission inspection they will still work fine.

One thing a friend of mine found out the hard way, he bought a Lincoln Mig welder from Lowe's, when he needed something for it, I think the drive for the wire feed, he went and ordered it from Lincoln only the find even though it was the same model, it had a different setup inside it. I think he told me there was a long model number that was different from the ones sold through welding supply houses. Based on that, I looked at a number of sources and discovered Northern Tool is actually listed as a Hobart distributor, so I bought a Hobart.

Damn, bummer. Maybe you can use the pistons for more compression on the carbureted block.

I have an AutoZone lifetime one in mine, don't even remember when I bought the first one, but they keep giving new ones. Pete, 15 mins particularly with the dash mostly apart, about the same on these trucks, in fact I have done them without draining the coolant, just vent the cap, take the hoses off the core (they're easy to reach) then lift them up against the hood spring. Take the 7 or 8 5/16" head screws out of the access door, and there it sits. Just keep it upright till you are out the door so it doesn't spill inside.

Somewhere, probably still in Newport News I had a very nice set of blind hole pullers. They were a shaft with a lip on the end and were split down the middle, then closed together at the end so they would fit in the hole. A rounded end bolt with a male thread to fit the puller section and a female thread on the end for a puller bolt that passed through a bridge so a nut could be tightened to extract the bearing or bushing. Worked great on most clutch jobs I did.