85lebaront2

I think I did, after posting the pictures of the new from Summit Ford Racing oil pan kit, pan, one piece gasket, oil pump pickup and new slide in dipstick tube with late model T handle dipstick.

Glad someone found it, I went through my 1986 manuals and not one damn thing on belts other than the section in the pre-delivery etc. manual regarding checking tension.

if you stripped the actual adjusting screw you may be able to find them in Dorman's "help" section.

Bill - I don't understand the question. Sorry, I'm old. When I go to the bullnose forum I do it by just going the Gary's Garagemahal and there it is, the only favicon I get is the blue W.

I have the same thing, I am going to garysgaragemahal to get to it, is there a more direct link? FWIW, Windows 10 V1703, build 15063.540 using Chrome browser.

Welcome to the group! I am almost as far from you as possible and still be in the US, Eastern Shore of VA. On a crew cab, front and back seats are the same from the factory, so can be swapped. If you stay with a manual trans, see if you can find a ZF 5 speed, 5th is overdrive, automatic, C6 is the easiest and strongest for a carbureted 351W. FWIW, headliner will come out of the passenger side door once all the trim is off. On sound deadening, I put a layer of thermal barrier for a house (the shiny aluminum stuff) across both front and rear footwell areas and a long strip over where the exhaust runs (I have a 460 and it gets very hot in that area). Not wanting to put carpet back is going to make it very hard to get rid of road noise. Tire selection will help, mine luckily takes the same tires the local school buses run so they are easy to find and not too noisy. Weatherstrip is probably dead after 31 years, front is available aftermarket, back, no such luck. Later models have sound deadening padding in the door panels, 86 does not, bed liner inside the doors will help and a layer of thin carpet padding glued on the back of the door panels will emulate the later doors. Good luck with it!

The front and rear seats move on the crew cab, the only difference will be the front seat back should be locked in position so it won't tilt. Tip for you, if the front is worn, the seats can be swapped as they are identical. Too bad it shows up as so dark inside, how about some outside pictures too.

I would use the Canada belt listed for the alternator since yours only has one belt groove usable, then go from there on the rest. If you go to some of the parts store websites and plug in the sales number (not the Ford PN) you may be able to cross reference them that way.

I probably have the 1986 routing. From looking at your photo, you should have, on the crank and water pump, from back to front; alternator, water pump and crank; power steering pump, water pump and crank; A/C compressor, water pump and crank; then you have an alternator to thermactor pump which if it was like the 460s is a 1/4" wide belt. Hope this helps some, the problem I run into at most parts stores, the kid on the computer is younger than your truck and if the computer doesn't show it they have no idea how to look in a print catalog even if they have one.

Since several sites I post on have different picture requirements, I find it easier to use Photoshop to arrive at what I need.

Beep beep, beep beep, his horn went beep beep beep.

Gary, I used Adobe Photoshop 6 (part of my Adobe Creative Suite 6) to resize, compress or whatever I need. One of the Chrysler forums I am on limits size to 800 X 600 pixels, for FTE, I try to keep the size under 1.0 Gb, and am using the same for your site as it seems to work well here too.

Definitely, it was one of my favorites. I always had a mental picture of a Nash Rambler.

That's why the water showing, once I fixed it I hosed everything off, been there, done that with antifreeze on ignition wires.

That's what I did, measured the one on the new engine, 2 5/8" and folded it and popped it in, at least it wasn't on my 77 with the 390, not only did you have to pull the A/C compressor bracket off, but getting the short little bitch in really takes a special pair of pliers. On Darth, that is exactly where it sits, nothing in the way, before, with the dual smoke grinders, it would have been a 2-3 hour job to get down to it and reassemble everything afterward.

Had to replace this little PITA today, went to get fuel for the lawn equipment (non-ethanol) and noticed a hot antifreeze odor. Since it was a short trip mostly a lower speeds I figured I would check when I got home. Opened the hood, and sure enough the bypass hose had split.

You should see what it does to small engine carburetors. We have a station that carries non-ethanol mid grade and that's what people here use for small engines, marine use and agricultural use (the ones that still have gas powered tractors).

That's why I went to EFI, no percolation issues. Maybe our new president will do away with the damned ethanol in gas. It was done to help the grain farmers and all it did was drive up the cost of food and cause problems with fuel systems.

That picture was taken before I embarked on the upgrades. The blue and white truck in the background is "Big Ugly" the donor vehicle for the EFI and E4OD, a 1990 F-250, the one behind Darth seems to be a bastard child as I don't know how two Fords couple give birth to an S10.

No, the carb shop, Preston Carburetion, was a full time business from around 1971-1978 when my father, who was the backer for buying it from Fred Pennington, decided it was a losing proposition (I won't go into all the details, but he didn't know what he was getting into). After 1978, I worked at a dealership then in 1982 went back to NNS and retired from there in Nov 2011 (effective date 1 Dec 2011). As for carburetors, I have worked on all kinds of them, from the most simple of all, the SU, to some better left unbuilt, like the Motorcraft 4300D. I have had Carter, Rochester, Stromberg, Autolite/Motorcraft and Holleys on my vehicles, some of which some people have never seen, like a Rochester RC, H and HV, Autolite in-line 850 CFM, Solex 3 barrel in side draft and downdraft versions, Weber IDA and DCOE, along with the Holley-Webers on Pintos and Vegas. Gary doesn't like Holleys because he doesn't understand them.

Ok, did that help, since I don't use a tablet or my phone for viewing these I have no way to tell.

No because the early computers will not deliver live data, I always kept a spare to try so I could see if it made a difference.

I guess I need to dig into my big testing manuals and let you know which ones I have. The computer controlled systems can be a real nightmare in the early years as they took two solenoids, a vacuum and a vent and the EGR position was maintained by "juggling" the two valves, later models (1987-95) used a duty cycle with the same position sensor as the early ones. 1996 went to a differential pressure sensor that actually measured EGR flow.

Jim, 1987 Omni 2.2L w/Holley 5210, oil pressure sender is a 3 terminal switch, two outside are NO for choke heat, center is oil pressure light. You could put a fitting like the electric pump models do, it is a long hex shaped one with an angle at the end and stick the Omni switch on the side. If I still have the fitting from Darth I will let you know.