85lebaront2

The valves are a little bigger on the F3 heads, that is what is on Darth's new engine, pistons for the 1988-92, F3 heads set up for 9.3 compression and a mild cam.

I have an EEC-IV for a manual transmission 460, it is bank fired, but even the CA spec 96s came bank fird for MT. Biggest issue, if you do it on Big Blue, unless that engine has smaller dish pistons than stock, you will have what I have on Darth now, around 8.0 to one or less.

Gary, I can do a preliminary setup, but, short of shipping EECs halfway across the country and back everytime something needed changing, I would not be able to help you a lot. If you were closer, maybe. Tuning EFI is like tuning a carburetor and distributor together, as you already know, they have to work together. Idle and cruise conditions the O2 sensors control the mixture, load, rpm and the program in the computer control the spark advance (which can go over 60 degrees under light load and decent rpm). Manifold, one of the weak areas on the EFI 460 is the intake, it is a basic dual plane low riser like the carbureted engines used. If Tim feels the 351W intake will work, maybe with a spacer between the lower and upper to get a good ram length (I'm sure he has the formulas Chrysler worked out in the 60s) That would benefit your engine I am sure. The 460 TB will bolt to the Windsor intake plenum, there are a few modifications needed, like IAC ports, water to prevent icing, TPS and throttle cable hookups. BTW, if Tim can lower himself to thinking about 460s, I have a wild idea for a better intake, but do not have the capability to build it.

Gary, for reference, gray sensor is coolant for EFI, white is air charge for EFI. Single stud is coolant for gauge.

I no longer have a good way to clean the case, I used to carry them to Bert's Transmission's in Newport News, actually I used to do the rebuilds in his shop, he would lay everything out for me when I was doing a Mercedes-Benz one for him. I can ask Kerry Tittermary when I get back if he has a good way to clean something that big. Torque converter, nothing special, but it is recommended it be replaced with a good reman unit.

From what I remember the air conditioned models in warm climates got the hot fuel handling package. Since mine was sold in the tidewater Virginia area with A/C it definitely would have come with it from the factory.

Yes, but I had the parts from the 90 F250 parts truck to use.

No, I don't, mine is custom harness that came with my 3G 160 amp unit. Besides, the only connections from the alternator harness to the rest of the front harness are at the hot post on the starter relay and the green/red circuit 904 ignition exciter wire.

Jim, one slight problem, the exhaust pipe flanges have a different angle on the EFI manifolds than the carbureted ones. I was going to just hook mine up and get O2 sensor bungs put in, but had to use the 90 pipes instead.

I second Jim's thought, with one change, remove the transfer case first. On lifting it, front pads under the front end of the frame, rear ones under the back of the cab. FWIW, Darth's CG unloaded is right at the back edge of the front doors. I proved that to a shop here on the Eastern Shore when he did an oil change and lube for me on my way to Easton MD to help my cousin move. 90 should still have the TTB system that Big Blue has.

With the engine warm, shut it off, disconnect anything the label says to (like EGR) open the throttle and raise the fast idle cam to the specified step then start it up, or you can reach the cam to raise it with the engine running. It is specified warm as cold would be too variable.

From what I remember about fast idle specs, Ford used to call for the setting on the second step (on 2100 and 4100 models where the arrow is) to be @ XXXX rpm hot. Darth specified 2200 rpm on the highest step with the engine warmed up and the EGR disconnected and the hose plugged.

Wallops Island is right next to Chincoteague and Assateague Islands, the VFD there does a pony penning and auction every year.

Whatever the original Ford color was.

If you need the wiper motor, the service motor for 1987-9? is the later motor with an adapter harness.

Who's in Maryland? I thought Gary was in BFE.

Try this again, Nabble dumped my reply again! No 460 used a PS pressure switch, I have the misfire detector disabled as the parts are CA specific and NLA, same for the EGR pressure sensor and special EGR tube, I am using the EVP sensor. There are two primary O2 sensors, but the 3rd one, post cat, is turned off along with cat overtemp sensor. I have one where the OBD-I O2 sensor would mount for my wideband.

You know, around here we have a saying 'It's better to be looking at it than looking for it' Think of all the nice color coded wires and pretty connectors you will have when you unwrap the loom and pick through it. Oh, I did get the Zf plug 'leg' for you. Do you want the factory ground cable and PMGR starter harness? I think I call dibs on the Motorcraft fender relay. Unless you *really* want it. I will take the starter harness and ground, don't need the relay, mine works the PMGR starter just fine.

I have two of them, one opal grey, the other red.

I don't see a wiring harness? Is it under the manifold along with the Plenum and TB?

Not the bolts so much as the washers and shims so Gary can powder coat them and the extras I have so next time I take the doghouse off I can put them on. If you don't need them, the fuel lines or at least the front part of them and the engine lifting pad, supposedly there was one in front right and rear left as installed. Wiper motor for a spare (1995-96 are different).

Replaced my keyless entry keypad, the one I had installed originally suddenly decided it wasn't going to do anything except lock the doors. I put another one I had picked up in place of it, now it works fine.

Yes, but, it will only give you what it reads, the wideband can be inputted when data logging provided the feature is enabled. I will get you some screen shots week after next when we get back from PA.

For who, you I assume. I just had to replace mine, leaking along the left side tank crimp.

Most exhaust shops carry the O2 sensor bungs so that won't be a problem. If you are going with the EEC-V system, you need two, one for each bank. I have a third, back where the stock ones went for my wideband sensor.